Good point
4wheel underground 3Link Build
- Thread starter Noahrob
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Good point
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
- Thread starter
- #143
OK, so I traded out a 12" 150 on top and a 16" 250 on the bottom for a 150/275, 14" top and bottom.
I know jack crap about coilsprings and deflection etc...so if you guys don't mind, take a look at these pics and tell me if this is good, bad, other...
Also, now I know why FOA recomends a 2" shorter spring on top...if you run 14" springs on a 14" shock, the coupler (spacer or whatever you call it) runs right to half way off the shock body at full extension.
I know jack crap about coilsprings and deflection etc...so if you guys don't mind, take a look at these pics and tell me if this is good, bad, other...
Also, now I know why FOA recomends a 2" shorter spring on top...if you run 14" springs on a 14" shock, the coupler (spacer or whatever you call it) runs right to half way off the shock body at full extension.
- Thread starter
- #145
So, I got tired of looking at the pinners so threw on the 37's and went for a test drive...shaky above 45mph, but I can work on that...otherwise, seems to go pretty good. Ramp and shake out run tomorrow or Friday.
Man she looks good. I'm still digging that comp cut front fender too, way cool.
- Thread starter
- #148
OK, so I know it has been a while, but here is what I have been doing. I contacted FOA and told them I did not like the Blue Coils for the reasons mentioned above. An RMA was issued for me to return my coils (second set) for a full refund. In the meantime I ordered some Eibachs and a pair of Fox sliders that are considerably longer than the FOA 2 inchers...I got everything slapped on as well as barell sanding out the bump stops cans to fit the FOA bump stops that are just a little bigger than the 2" ID cans I got from Brian. I literally had to use a 4x4, floorjack cold chisels, a hammer, a rubber mallet, 3in1 oil, and the weight of my truck to get the bumps in place...I didn't do any test driving, but just jacking the truck up and down was already way better, seems like the FOA slides were binding pretty bad.
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
Have you noticed any ride height difference with the new springs?
looks good. those are the nicest toyota link kits i've seen.
- Thread starter
- #152
OK, I finally finished everything, limiting straps, brake lines, etc...and did a fair amount of test driving on a fire road and a bunch of street testing. All said and done, the three link setup works very well. On the trail I was able to go faster than I was with leaf springs. This does not mean I am a baja racer, it is still a 20 year old truck with a solid axle, but where I was going 10 to 20mph before I am going 30 to 40 now. As for the on road performance, the three link works well and I suspect that anybody running crappy Rancho or a RUF would probably crap themselves with joy after the three link was done. I even had a fabricator/mechanic friend of mine comment that this was the best looking three link he has seen on a 4runner and that he was surprised at how well it drove going down the road.
There are a few things I would have done differently now that I look at it.
1) Not used FOA shocks.
2) Got aluminum wheels
3) NOT USED FOA SPRINGS
4) Changed to a dropped pitman arm and rotated my steering box.
5) NOT USED FOA SHOCKS OR SPRINGS
Even with these couple of things, I am happy with how everythgin turned out. I will be out at Swamp Lake in August so should have an even better idea then.
Vendors I used that were Awesome in terms of knowledge, customer service, friendliness, and quick shipping
1) Spidertrax
2) Wild West Offroad
3) Front Range Offroad
Vendors that I thought were still pretty good, but the first three were so awesome they deserve to be called out.
1) Poly Performance
2) Currie Enterprise
3) Ballistic Fabrication
Long story short, I hope that anybody sitting on the fence pulls the trigger, links their rig, and shoots me an e-mail so we can go wheeling when it is all said and done.
Noah
There are a few things I would have done differently now that I look at it.
1) Not used FOA shocks.
2) Got aluminum wheels
3) NOT USED FOA SPRINGS
4) Changed to a dropped pitman arm and rotated my steering box.
5) NOT USED FOA SHOCKS OR SPRINGS
Even with these couple of things, I am happy with how everythgin turned out. I will be out at Swamp Lake in August so should have an even better idea then.
Vendors I used that were Awesome in terms of knowledge, customer service, friendliness, and quick shipping
1) Spidertrax
2) Wild West Offroad
3) Front Range Offroad
Vendors that I thought were still pretty good, but the first three were so awesome they deserve to be called out.
1) Poly Performance
2) Currie Enterprise
3) Ballistic Fabrication
Long story short, I hope that anybody sitting on the fence pulls the trigger, links their rig, and shoots me an e-mail so we can go wheeling when it is all said and done.
Noah
Ok, So my main question is would this be a good option for a DD that sees more street time than trail time. Also, I know you are running 37s but based on your real world experience with it do you think that a fellow could run a shorter CO and perhaps get down in the 3"-4" overall lift range reasonably? I'd love to be low enough that 33s look like they belong.
I am leaning this way for my pickup, more for ride than articulation and after looking at all of the spring kits on the market, I like the idea of the CO setup's tune-ability for ride quality.
I have taken note on the don'ts that you have above and would be very interested in any other wisdom you might impart. One thing I am particularly interested in is the draglink placement. Do you think that one could mount the draglink on the bottom of the steering arm without binding at full droop? I am just trying to gather some information
Also, I noticed based on the thread, that this build took you about 5-6 months of work. I am guessing this was kind of a winter project for you, but if you had to have gotten it done quicker, what would be a reasonable timeline for this type of build?
Also, if you don't mind me asking, what would you estimate the total investment in this setup is? I know the 4WU kit is $650 and with links that goes to $1440, but with a set of CO and bumps, and other little odds and ends where would you guess you are? And if you don't want to add it up I understand.
Thanks a ton,
Tucker
I am leaning this way for my pickup, more for ride than articulation and after looking at all of the spring kits on the market, I like the idea of the CO setup's tune-ability for ride quality.
I have taken note on the don'ts that you have above and would be very interested in any other wisdom you might impart. One thing I am particularly interested in is the draglink placement. Do you think that one could mount the draglink on the bottom of the steering arm without binding at full droop? I am just trying to gather some information
Also, I noticed based on the thread, that this build took you about 5-6 months of work. I am guessing this was kind of a winter project for you, but if you had to have gotten it done quicker, what would be a reasonable timeline for this type of build?
Also, if you don't mind me asking, what would you estimate the total investment in this setup is? I know the 4WU kit is $650 and with links that goes to $1440, but with a set of CO and bumps, and other little odds and ends where would you guess you are? And if you don't want to add it up I understand.
Thanks a ton,
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #154
Hi Tucker,
That is a lot of questions, let me see if I can answer a few, or at least try to:
1) I am very picky and insist on keeping my trucks street friendly. With that said, my 3 link works dam well, in fact, it works well enough for me to take the kids to school in it. Actually, on teh 101 between Oxbard adn teh Camarillo grade, my 4runner is more comfortable and soaks up the bumps better than my Tundra...no joke!
2) I don't see why you couldn't get the truck down to sport 33's.. There are a few ways your could do it, but I don't see any issue.
3) Draglink....turns out that I don't have any binding issues, so I think the answer is yes, you will be OK.
4) The build took me a long time for three main reasons...first, I am really picky, so want it to be perfect. Secondly, I work full time, have a wife. two kids etc...which means I don't get a log of free time. Finally, this was not the only project I was working on.
5) As for the money, there are a lot of variables...what is your budget?
That is a lot of questions, let me see if I can answer a few, or at least try to:
1) I am very picky and insist on keeping my trucks street friendly. With that said, my 3 link works dam well, in fact, it works well enough for me to take the kids to school in it. Actually, on teh 101 between Oxbard adn teh Camarillo grade, my 4runner is more comfortable and soaks up the bumps better than my Tundra...no joke!
2) I don't see why you couldn't get the truck down to sport 33's.. There are a few ways your could do it, but I don't see any issue.
3) Draglink....turns out that I don't have any binding issues, so I think the answer is yes, you will be OK.
4) The build took me a long time for three main reasons...first, I am really picky, so want it to be perfect. Secondly, I work full time, have a wife. two kids etc...which means I don't get a log of free time. Finally, this was not the only project I was working on.
5) As for the money, there are a lot of variables...what is your budget?
Noah,
Thanks for the reply. Better than the Tundra, well then I don't need that car payment after all...
Good to hear about the draglink. And I certainly understand about the timing, I also work full time, seems like more some days, have a baby girl and wife, and am very finicky when I start working on something, so I feel you on all those points. Since this is my DD I was just trying to get my head around potential down time.
I am not opposed to going bigger on tires, 35s would be ok as long as I can keep it low. I just always thought that a SA on 33s that looked like it belonged would be an awesome DD, you know like the rest of the world got to have.
As far as budget, I am by no means unlimited, but I am a firm believer In not skimping just to save a dime. I have had my truck for better than 10 years and it has been good to me and I intend to put another 200k+ on the ticker if I can so I want to use good stuff. I figure with new tires, gears, rear suspension and all I would like to stay in the $5k range. I noticed last night that 4WU is selling radflo's so it looks like with the brackets, link and a set of CO's I would be in it for at least $2,500 on the front, plus the misc. stuff, so with careful shopping, I don't see that $5k being out of line too bad.
I may start saving my pennies and start picking up a few parts, I mean the
already says I'm a parts hoarder, so I wouldn't want to disappoint her.
Your runner looks great and I will definitely be bothering you more once I get closer to actually cutting on something.
Thanks again,
Tucker
Thanks for the reply. Better than the Tundra, well then I don't need that car payment after all...
Good to hear about the draglink. And I certainly understand about the timing, I also work full time, seems like more some days, have a baby girl and wife, and am very finicky when I start working on something, so I feel you on all those points. Since this is my DD I was just trying to get my head around potential down time.
I am not opposed to going bigger on tires, 35s would be ok as long as I can keep it low. I just always thought that a SA on 33s that looked like it belonged would be an awesome DD, you know like the rest of the world got to have.
As far as budget, I am by no means unlimited, but I am a firm believer In not skimping just to save a dime. I have had my truck for better than 10 years and it has been good to me and I intend to put another 200k+ on the ticker if I can so I want to use good stuff. I figure with new tires, gears, rear suspension and all I would like to stay in the $5k range. I noticed last night that 4WU is selling radflo's so it looks like with the brackets, link and a set of CO's I would be in it for at least $2,500 on the front, plus the misc. stuff, so with careful shopping, I don't see that $5k being out of line too bad.
I may start saving my pennies and start picking up a few parts, I mean the
already says I'm a parts hoarder, so I wouldn't want to disappoint her.Your runner looks great and I will definitely be bothering you more once I get closer to actually cutting on something.
Thanks again,
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #156
Hi,
I have less than $2500 in my front and probably could have done it for less, but I bought more than I needed to see what I wanted...if that makes sense. I run 35's as my street tires and it is fine, if I raised my shock hoops or used a little helper spring I could come down another 1.5" or so...let me know when you start.
I have less than $2500 in my front and probably could have done it for less, but I bought more than I needed to see what I wanted...if that makes sense. I run 35's as my street tires and it is fine, if I raised my shock hoops or used a little helper spring I could come down another 1.5" or so...let me know when you start.
I just read through this thread and fantastic work. Those brackets are a work of art and your truck looks fantastic. Im with Tucker in the interest of being able to build it low. Im more of a camping/ fishing rather than rock crawling user so keeping it low for handling on and off road would be ideal. 35s at the absolute max but would love something like 255/85r16s (33.4 to 34) or something like that. Possible or would someone run into more space issues?
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
A lower stance is very doable.
Noah,
Any updates on the rig? How have things been shaking out? I got the nod from the earlier this week to do something about my truck. She walked out into the garage and said "Is your truck leaning?" It has a bit of a passenger side lean that I have been chasing for a few years and she knows that I want to SAS to correct and I already have the axle for it so she says, "Thats what this axle is for, right? Why don't you look at working on that."
Not sure if she fully understood what those words are going to cost, but I am on the hunt. I spoke to 4WU a little this week and will likely be getting some brackets headed my way sometime this winter. I want to get the t-case crossmember sorted out. I really want to keep some kind of under slung t-case mount so I need to get the brackets to try and work that out.
I also got the nod to pick up a good welder for this and some other things so I am well on my way.
So all that "blah, blah" to try and get some feedback on your setup.
I am probably going to do the basic kit with the Emulsion CO's, bumpstops and a joint at one end instead of both.
Thoughts? suggestions? Tell me to walk away now?
Thanks,
Tucker
Any updates on the rig? How have things been shaking out? I got the nod from the
earlier this week to do something about my truck. She walked out into the garage and said "Is your truck leaning?" It has a bit of a passenger side lean that I have been chasing for a few years and she knows that I want to SAS to correct and I already have the axle for it so she says, "Thats what this axle is for, right? Why don't you look at working on that."Not sure if she fully understood what those words are going to cost, but I am on the hunt. I spoke to 4WU a little this week and will likely be getting some brackets headed my way sometime this winter. I want to get the t-case crossmember sorted out. I really want to keep some kind of under slung t-case mount so I need to get the brackets to try and work that out.
I also got the nod to pick up a good welder for this and some other things so I am well on my way.
So all that "blah, blah" to try and get some feedback on your setup.
I am probably going to do the basic kit with the Emulsion CO's, bumpstops and a joint at one end instead of both.
Thoughts? suggestions? Tell me to walk away now?
Thanks,
Tucker
Two other things
First, are those your original SAS shock mounts modified with your dinosaurs to hold the CO's
Second, I have a set of sliders mounted already, see pic below, do your or Brian see any possible interference with the slider leg mounts and the frame brackets? Both sides mount at similar locations.
Thanks
First, are those your original SAS shock mounts modified with your dinosaurs to hold the CO's
Second, I have a set of sliders mounted already, see pic below, do your or Brian see any possible interference with the slider leg mounts and the frame brackets? Both sides mount at similar locations.
Thanks
Last edited:
