And please please get rid of that hidious 3 link and as a true friend I will let you hide it under my rig!!! Way sweet man looks very professional something too be proud of!!
4wheel underground 3Link Build
- Thread starter Noahrob
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eh, I wouldn't make it such a priority. Granted the Aisins are probably the best-built hubs I've seen, right now, it just seems that your hands are a little tied.
I'm sure you'll be fine until it's time for some new axle seals. At least they're not Selectros.
Better yet:
^Isn't that what a pair of spare A.D.D. drive flanges and a spare hub are for?
(Can't find the pic of mine or Roger's at this moment.)
"Be Prepared"
- Lord Robert Baden Powell.
There is a few 1/2 truths in here.
Yes, Aisins are proven stronger than Warns, due in part to the cone-washer design... But it's not worth making a national case over, either.
Pretty impressed with the brackets thus far. I especially like the panhard mount. Well thought out.
again chuck, taking bad advice and spreading it.
If the guy was smart enough to buy longs he must have needed them. Why run a superior shaft and a garbage hub?
No half truths. If so please elaborate.
Cone washers are only one thing that makes aisins better. The lack of potmetal is a big bonus too.
Nobody has any case defending warn hubs on a toyota minitruck axle.
carry on
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At this point the only thing being advocated here is fiscal common sense. A link conversion is far from cheap, and unless there's a lucky scrapyard score that yields the hubs, new AISINS are a pretty penny. Those who wear 'em generally have to put their pants on one leg at a time, that's just how it goes.
Personally, I get a little bothered when I see Warns on a good truck; but as Noah's said, they've held up so far, then they can likely make it until the next inner seal replacement.
As to the notion of carrying spares, I don't care if I ran hubs with gears cut from diamonds, I'd still lug around an extra set, just a personal preference toward being prepared, and remaining mentally awake.
Finally, Front Range Offroad sells drive flanges - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
Im pretty good friends with Brian at Front Range, and Im certain he made those for the rear of vehicles that have full float conversions. With that said you can run them in the front. I personnaly wont because I like my steering components and birfs the way they are, but if its a dedicated 4x4 then maybe I would.
Yes new Aisisns are expensive, but used ones from the junk yard aren't that bad.
Now, how about that 3link. WOW!
- Thread starter
- #68
Just for giggles I checked on the prices for Aisins...$400! I will stick with my Warns for now...
Anyway, I made some progress today, but it was one of those trial and error type days where I got relatively little done compared to the number of hours invested. I worked for 7 hours straight and only got one shock mounted...I started out by making a dinosaur farm.
Anyway, I made some progress today, but it was one of those trial and error type days where I got relatively little done compared to the number of hours invested. I worked for 7 hours straight and only got one shock mounted...I started out by making a dinosaur farm.
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- #69
Once I got a template I liked built in cardboard, I made it out of 1/8 plate and got everything mounted up. For the time being, I didn't mess with the 90 fitting for the shock. Anyway, after a couple of hours of messing with templates, the plasma cutter and the shock I got everything where I wanted and BAM...of course, the shock hit the bumpcan bolt at full stuff. OK, take everything apart, pull off the shock hoop, cut out the bump can and rotate it, put everything back together and make a new bracket. Round 2 was going well, but then BAM...the spring was catching the frame on full droop, so again, took things apart and made a new bracket. Finally, got things where I wanted so made a bracket out of 1/4 plate...Made the bracket using the plasma cutter, grinder and flap wheel...Not 100% that was the best way, but that is what I did, might try the cutoff wheel next time.
- Thread starter
- #70
I cycled the suspension several times and found that there is very little clearance everywhere, like maybe a 1/4 inch between the tire and spring at stuff and the spring and frame at droop. Also, I think I need to move the jam nut back on the upper link at the axle, it is binding in the bracket at driver full stuff.
One of my options is free.
The other is about $20-40 for a pair of IFS hubs at a wrecking yard and then Bobby's chromo hub gear http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com/products/TOYOTA-INNER-HUB-GEAR.html (which you need to make you warranty valid on the longs) at $60 each is $140 - 160 for a pair of CHROMO aisins. Thats less than new warns.
Not the 400 you found. 400 is a rippoff.
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
Speaking of Aisin hubs and such, if anyone here needs parts from a used Toyota please click this. He is local to SoCal and can give you good pricing.
toytony4x4
toytony4x4
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I've never paid more than $25 per Asian hub.... If you can't find them for less than $50 per, then you need to learn how to shop...
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They're affordable at local scrapyards, the trick is to find 'em before anyone else does.
I'm sure folks up here have a sixth-sense for new Toyotas, I've never been able to find a V6 third, or hubs.
I'm sure folks up here have a sixth-sense for new Toyotas, I've never been able to find a V6 third, or hubs.
He's right, buy IFS Aisins for a fraction of SA Aisins and then buy the chromo hub gear you'd need to buy regardless to retain the warranty since otherwise if you break the gear and strip the outer you're out of luck. If anyone is seriously buying the $200ea new Aisins when great used ones are still available then they could just give me the difference, I'll even go ahead and refresh the old ones
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- #76
Well, as much as I appreciate the hub discussion, and learned a little, it will have to wait as unfortunately wheels may be in my immediate future. I run 37x14 Iroks on a 8" rim with 4.5 BS...which means there ain't a heck of a lot fo extra room in there...I was able to squeeze teh passenger side in with a margin of about 1/16 - 1/8, but the driver side is super tigher.
- Thread starter
- #77
I re-worked the shock hoop and mount and might have been able to squeeze out a little more, not 100% sure yet. The whole thing has me a little nervous cuz it is inevitable that in some offroad situation, I will make the truck controt in a way that is simply not possible in the garage.
NorCalBorn
10 Year
15 Year
^Did you factor in tire growth/bulge into the equation there..that's awful close IMHE. I'd want at least 3/4-1" space on the tire side.
*Sam and Ryan, thanks for clarifying the intent of my post above.
All good here. I'll watch the build continue w/o any further debate happen.
*Sam and Ryan, thanks for clarifying the intent of my post above.
All good here. I'll watch the build continue w/o any further debate happen.
^Isn't that what a pair of spare A.D.D. drive flanges and a spare hub are for?
(Can't find the pic of mine or Roger's at this moment.)
The ADD drive flange will NOT fit a solid axle. The spline count is not even close to the same.
*Sam and Ryan, thanks for clarifying the intent of my post above.
All good here. I'll watch the build continue w/o any further debate happen.
Ok thanks for clarifying it with a pic.
The pic you posted looks like a solid axle fj80 driveflange not an ADD flange. Nice try.NorCalBorn
10 Year
15 Year
Ok thanks for clarifying it with a pic.
LOL..it was b/c I couldn't find the pic I needed at the time, got really lazy and figured those who knew what I meant would figure it all out anyhow, which you all did, although insulting and arguing in the process.
The drama that happens b/c I take a shortcut in a reference bit one time?
All good..let's move on.
