4wheel underground 3Link Build

[Chop Shop]

LOL..it was b/c I couldn't find the pic I needed at the time, got really lazy and figured those who knew what I meant would figure it all out anyhow, which you all did, although insulting and arguing in the process.

The drama that happens b/c I take a shortcut in a reference bit one time?

All good..let's move on.

The best part is, in some of your bad advice you posted the wrong picture of a flange. The wrong flange you pictured is off of an FJ80 and WILL fit on a 79-85 solid axle.

The ADD flange you suggested earlier and tried to find a pic of WILL NOT fit a solid axle. The add flanges will only fit an 86-95 IFS rig. Does that help ya understand the differences?

 

[NorCalBorn]

The ADD flange you suggested earlier and tried to find a pic of WILL NOT fit a solid axle. The add flanges will only fit an 86-95 IFS rig. Does that help ya understand the differences?

No kidding, never thought that..let it go already. Let's just read how the build's going.

 

[Combat Chuck]

All good..let's move on.

let it go already.

'Nuff said.

MOVING ON:

So, Noah, how's the Dinosaur farm treating you? Sounds like an exciting business once you get past the whole INGEN incident thing.

but seriously, what's the motivating factor for the new wheels?
Also, you may have mentioned this, but what're your plans for drive-shafts?

 

[4WheelUnderground]

The Iroks are so balloon like at the side walls, that positioning the coilovers in the right spot, leaves about 1/16" of an inch on either side. On compression the tire is almost touching the coil and on droop its about the thickness of a peice of paper between the coil and frame. On the driver side he may even be touching the frame when drooped. When I did my tests and install, it was with 37" MTR's that are 12 wide not 14. All this to basically say, it flippin tight, and honestly I think this was maybe a bit more involved than he originally thought.

14" Iroks on 8" rims with 4.5" backspace with a 2" spacer. He doesn't want wider spacers, he could go with new rims, or possibly grind out some of the 1/4" frame plate that he got with the kit.

Either way, none of this has anything to do with the links or brackets, the lack of room is based off of going from a Bilstien 1.75" shock body with limited leaf sprung travel to a much larger 2.0" shock with a coil around it that measures 3.5" in diameter, and has more travel, which means the axle moves from left to right much more. How much room would any of us have if we used a 3.5" diameter shock, near zero.

In the end, with the narrow Toyota frame, narrow axle and really wide tires, realstate is at a premium under those fenders.

 

[Combat Chuck]

makes sense to me, seems like more spacer just means more room for breakage; and weakening the frame plate seems counter-productive to purchasing it in the first place. Besides, shallower rims means wider stance, which is never a bad thing.

 

[4WheelUnderground]

makes sense to me, seems like more spacer just means more room for breakage; and weakening the frame plate seems counter-productive to purchasing it in the first place. Besides, shallower rims means wider stance, which is never a bad thing.

Ya bit wider is better but he's just disappointed that he is running into this issue. The guy had a hard time getting everything working as it should, I stepped in and help him out, which he appreicated and now it works as it should, but the fact remains that a coilover conversion and wheels is a big hit to the pocket. He did get a bunch of stuff for either free or really cheap but when you plan on spending (X) and you have to spend (Y) you kinda get disappointed. I just wish I could have informed him of this before hand, it wouldn't have been an issue. Most of us aren't running that kind of wheel and tire combo, so most of us this won't be an issue. For him it is and its a bummer.

 

[Noahrob]

Hi,

Well, in my experience, any project of significance has a ton of little onsie twosie things...that is just part fo the deal. Now, to be fair, Brian has done everything humanly possible to support his product and make this work. I am just a little bummed on the wheel situation as I just got and mounted these MT's a couple of months ago (which I have wanted for years). So, now I am in the hunt for new wheels, I guess. I think going with a 16th or whatever is a mistake and gonna bite me in the arse in the long run, probably about 1200 miles from home...

Also, I have to get and mount them etc...before I finish the shock placement, so this project is officially on hold...which is funny because I just got my smog ticket in the mail...dooh!

So, from a wheel perspective, if I am going to spend the money, I might as well get beadlocks, preferably aluminum...hmmm, that sounds cheap

More to come...

 

[4WheelUnderground]

I say set your shocks up so you have 1/4" from the frame, run it that way and let the tires rub a little when it's fully articulated. Since thats the only time it will rub you can still drive the thing around, you dont have to let it sit there until you've got money for beadlocks. Finish it up, get some paint on that thing and have fun with it. Dont worry about a little rub of the tire it will only leave some black marks.

 

[Combat Chuck]

I say set your shocks up so you have 1/4" from the frame, run it that way and let the tires rub a little when it's fully articulated. Since thats the only time it will rub you can still drive the thing around, you dont have to let it sit there until you've got money for beadlocks. Finish it up, get some paint on that thing and have fun with it. Dont worry about a little rub of the tire it will only leave some black marks.

I agree. Waiting for money and parts kills a rig, enjoy what you can with it as it sits, then really enjoy it when your beadlocks come through.

 

[fzjconvert]

Ya bit wider is better but he's just disappointed that he is running into this issue. The guy had a hard time getting everything working as it should, I stepped in and help him out, which he appreicated and now it works as it should, but the fact remains that a coilover conversion and wheels is a big hit to the pocket. He did get a bunch of stuff for either free or really cheap but when you plan on spending (X) and you have to spend (Y) you kinda get disappointed. I just wish I could have informed him of this before hand, it wouldn't have been an issue. Most of us aren't running that kind of wheel and tire combo, so most of us this won't be an issue. For him it is and its a bummer.

Well I can't wait to do mine!And I'm no bellyacher!

 

[Noahrob]

"And I'm no bellyacher!"

If that was directed at me, let me set the record straight, I complain, I don't bellyache..

 

[fzjconvert]

"And I'm no bellyacher!"

If that was directed at me, let me set the record straight, I complain, I don't bellyache..

 

[Combat Chuck]

Say, Noahrob, riddle me this, Batman:
you must be near some prime wheeling locations to warrant such a firecracker rig, where are you located?

 

[Noahrob]

Actually, I am in Goleta and there is little to no wheeling in the immediate area so I usually drive either out to Mojave or up to the Sierras. Last trip was to the Rubicon for the Marlin Round up and the trip before that was to Panamint Valley for the 4x4Him.org jamboress...

What this means is that we will test 4wheelunderground's 3 link on and offroad!

As for the build, I figured out what I will do with wheels etc...to get a little more clearance and will get back to work in the next couple of days. Probably going to try and keep the top of the shock where it is and move teh bottom out to clear the frame, but we'll see how everything fits.

I am excited to have a few hours to make some progress!

 

[NorCalBorn]

*Don't see it mentioned other than a tip in a prior post..

Are you running IFS Hubs on your SA for a little extra width yet or not?

 

[Combat Chuck]

Actually, I am in Goleta and there is little to no wheeling in the immediate area so I usually drive either out to Mojave or up to the Sierras. Last trip was to the Rubicon for the Marlin Round up and the trip before that was to Panamint Valley for the 4x4Him.org jamboress...

What this means is that we will test 4wheelunderground's 3 link on and offroad!

As for the build, I figured out what I will do with wheels etc...to get a little more clearance and will get back to work in the next couple of days. Probably going to try and keep the top of the shock where it is and move teh bottom out to clear the frame, but we'll see how everything fits.

I am excited to have a few hours to make some progress!

Awesome, man! I look forward to your progress.
I'm a semi-active member of 4x4Him as well, gotta say, it's a pretty cool organization.

 

[4WheelUnderground]

Noah, did you get wheels, or did you decide on what you're doing?

 

[Noahrob]

I made some progress today, got the tabs welded on the hoops and the driver side hoop tacked in place. Moved the lower mounts from the top of the axle bracket to the side of the bracket which gives me the room I need to clear the frame. Also, I got some 3/8" 90 degree NPT fittings so I can move the hose on the shock and clear the tabs.

The tabs ended up being pretty long off the hoop so I made them out of 1/4 plate and added a 1.5" gusset across the back to make them stronger .

As for the wheels, I have a couple of options, but the short version is I have to do something. Might try and sell my whole set and get something else...or just buy Allied beadlocks.

 

[Noahrob]

Hi Y'all,


So I orderd up some Allied beadlocks from Tim at Wild West offroad and spend most of the day tightening bolts...argh. However, the result is awesome! Now that everything should clear I need to work on the shock hoses to replace the straight ends with 90's.

 

[Noahrob]

The other thing I did was replace the stright hose on my FOA with a 90 degree. Long story short, the hoses on FOA are crimpped so my choise were to get a 90 NPT and insert it or get new hoses. I tried the adapter first, but couldn't locate a male to female that would clear the collar so I ordered new hoses from FOA. Well, the hoses showed up with a new endcap on it so I had to disassemble the resevoir to put the new cap on. My buddy was here helping. He runs Kings and was surprised at the amount of effort it took me to get the resevoir apart. Also, the shock oil is very thin...might replace it, not sure yet. Anyway, while I was looking at the shock I found this...WTF?