4WD Indicator Switch for 68 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Location
Stuart, Virginia
Can anyone source a replacement 4WD indicator switch for vacuum shift unit on a 1968 FJ40 transfer case? The one that sends a light to the dash when the vacuum shifter engages 4WD? Part 182-06 below, and is NLA for my year truck. Wires on my existing are badly frayed.

Thanks to the community for any help.
Chip Robie
VA Mountain FJ40

IMG_4931.jpeg
 
If you can’t find one replacement wires can easily be soldered in place of the frayed ones if that’s the only issue. Functional connectors are available also. GL.
 
If you can’t find one replacement wires can easily be soldered in place of the frayed ones if that’s the only issue. Functional connectors are available also. GL.
This! I heated the terminals on my switch with a soldering iron and was able to pull the old OEM wires off with ease. Then cleaned the terminals and soldered on new wires. Good as new!
 
No clue. I'd try and fix what you have first. $110+ for a used part is like purest price. GL

I remember time when I could buy a whole used transfer case for $25. The one on my 70 FJ40 the whole terminal had rotted away. Plunger end was perfect.
IMG_2613 (1).JPG

The other end was gone.
IMG_2614 (1).JPG

There was no soldering in new wires. It wires were the problem that is how I repaired it versus the whole switch.
 
Its not like there is a lot of oil pressure in that switch. I have fixed many a plunger type switches that looked worse than that one. A person could just remove the guts in the housing and epoxy in a new switch with the correct throw. Rebuilding double throw double pole, multipole rotary when parts are missing is a lot more fiddly
 
Before you go the solder-new-wire route if you have a continuity meter you can check if the switch is functional before investing any time to repair it. Your switch looks to be in good shape except for wires so should be good to go but the continuity check is simple assurance . Don’t forget to make sure the ball bearing is in place (part 12 in your parts figure) when reinstalling.
 
Before you go the solder-new-wire route if you have a continuity meter you can check if the switch is functional before investing any time to repair it. Your switch looks to be in good shape except for wires so should be good to go but the continuity check is simple assurance . Don’t forget to make sure the ball bearing is in place (part 12 in your parts figure) when reinstalling.
Thanks for the good idea. Did a continuity check toggling the switch. The switch is good.
 
This! I heated the terminals on my switch with a soldering iron and was able to pull the old OEM wires off with ease. Then cleaned the terminals and soldered on new wires. Good as new!
Yassuh. I validated continuity across the terminals with and without the plunger depressed. Functionally good, just needs the wires re—soldered at the terminal and protected with some strain relief / shrink wrap. So I’ll do a solder repair and post pics for future folks with my question. THanks for helping me along the way.
 
Its not like there is a lot of oil pressure in that switch. I have fixed many a plunger type switches that looked worse than that one. A person could just remove the guts in the housing and epoxy in a new switch with the correct throw. Rebuilding double throw double pole, multipole rotary when parts are missing is a lot more fiddly
Thanks for the response! It helped me solve the issue. Plunger moves freely without “grunch”. Used DVM to validate continuity across wire posts according to plunger position. Gonna keep the guts, fix the wires, and reinstall in the vacuum pod.
 
Before you go the solder-new-wire route if you have a continuity meter you can check if the switch is functional before investing any time to repair it. Your switch looks to be in good shape except for wires so should be good to go but the continuity check is simple assurance . Don’t forget to make sure the ball bearing is in place (part 12 in your parts figure) when reinstalling.
Thanks for the response! Did the continuity check… it passed.
BIG thanks for the ball bearing reminder. I would have missed it. Hopefully it is still in the cavity of the vac pod where I removed the switch. Otherwise, I’m gonna have to source one. That would have been a bear.
 
Before you go the solder-new-wire route if you have a continuity meter you can check if the switch is functional before investing any time to repair it. Your switch looks to be in good shape except for wires so should be good to go but the continuity check is simple assurance . Don’t forget to make sure the ball bearing is in place (part 12 in your parts figure) when reinstalling.
Unexpected benefit from your advice:
Went back to the vac unit core to look for the ball bearing 12, afraid I lost it. Removed switch. Channel for the ball bearing was filled with corroded junk. Took 2 sprays with Kroil to even be able to see the ball bearing. If that ball bearing needed to move to work, it wasn’t moving. I cleared the channel with a tiny screwdriver and I can roll it a little in place. Not sure how to get it out, doesn’t come out if I tip the vac pod over and tap it. Might need to get a tiny retriever magnet?

In any event, if there was more corroded crud like that inside the unit, that could be the issue.
 
Can anyone source a replacement 4WD indicator switch for vacuum shift unit on a 1968 FJ40 transfer case? The one that sends a light to the dash when the vacuum shifter engages 4WD? Part 182-06 below, and is NLA for my year truck. Wires on my existing are badly frayed.

Thanks to the community for any help.
Chip Robie
VA Mountain FJ40

View attachment 3895289
If you can’t find one replacement wires can easily be soldered in place of the frayed ones if that’s the only issue. Functional connectors are available also. GL.
I remember time when I could buy a whole used transfer case for $25. The one on my 70 FJ40 the whole terminal had rotted away. Plunger end was perfect.
View attachment 3895341
The other end was gone.
View attachment 3895342
There was no soldering in new wires. It wires were the problem that is how I repaired it versus the whole switch.
Here’s what the switch looks like inside the plunger just pushes up to make contact
View attachment 3897072View attachment 3897073


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below is the modern age 2025 Japan spec. oem parts maker updated switch for your vacuum transferase 4wd green indicator dash light application ,


- they beefed up the wires , use the updated marine grade tinned bullet connectors , and incorporate as snappy very nice EPDM rubber weather boot too ,,,

- it uses the same part # aluminum crush ring and actually includes one with the switch ...... i guess somebody finally realized after 40+ years that might be a good new idea ....... ? 🤔 :wrench::wrench:


- the spring loaded pump plunger was a place dirt and crap got all stuck up with , its nice to see the sanitary solid pin and tight clearance between it and the main switch body so as to wipe off any little intruders that might want a new home ........:D

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Thank for sharing the very cool upgraded switch overview. Looks good. Can you share a source or part number where I can order one? Is this available through Toyota?


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