RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
He221 turbo is the best setup for the 4bt
Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ
- Thread starter cjmoon
- Start date
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Is there any concern about how thin the 3.52 ring gear is? I'm worried with a healthy diesel it maybe an issue.
- Thread starter
- #324
3.54 gears are in the works the install is documented on the group buy I started not to many participants but i believe the write-up and a few months of feed back may have people jumping at it. details in the buy thread:
3.54 diesel differential gear group buy?
i am also pulling the trigger on a A750A 5 Speed. more for research and see what it would take to install no set time line for trial and error...
3.54 diesel differential gear group buy?
i am also pulling the trigger on a A750A 5 Speed. more for research and see what it would take to install no set time line for trial and error...
Depends on your elevation. My Super HX30w produces more boost, faster, than all reports I've read about the HE221. I'm about ~300ft elevation which helps.
The "ideal tune" and "ideal turbo" will change depending on truck location (elevation mostly) and driver personal preference.
- Thread starter
- #327
3.54 gears are the s***... i really don't notice a difference in the power but sounds better not over reving all the time which reduces over all noise in the cab. it will take me a few weeks to get a tank through it and see where my mpg are. i'm hoping for 20 MPG. my old 12v 2wd 3.54 33" tires dodge got 16 with my normal driving 19-22 hwy. my 4bt cruiser has been 15-16mpg regardless even if my town town mpg are 17-18 i am positive my hwy will be much better. gust for reference my gas chevy 2500 6.0 gas Truck gets 11-12 around town.
- Thread starter
- #328
I haven't updated lately. I've had several other treads about the gears. But first tank was 17.5 with lots of stop and go. Tuning running through the gears. Second tank was 19mpg typical traffic 25% highway running 75. Still don't have a tach on the dash. Only on my computer thru the trans controller.
Got a Dakota digital tach converter thinking that the voltage was to low and the oem computer was conditioning the tach signal which was working prior to my trans computer swap. Need to contact Dakota Digital for some trouble shooting help.
Need to get the tach moving to really tackle the fine tuning of shift points. I really think the standalone computer is night and day difference and do not recommend trying to use the oem computer. I need to do a 0-60 video but really do not think I lost anything going to 3.54 gears. Part of it is controlling the trans better some is utilizing torque and hp at the same time and holding gears longer.
Sent from my SM-G900V
Got a Dakota digital tach converter thinking that the voltage was to low and the oem computer was conditioning the tach signal which was working prior to my trans computer swap. Need to contact Dakota Digital for some trouble shooting help.
Need to get the tach moving to really tackle the fine tuning of shift points. I really think the standalone computer is night and day difference and do not recommend trying to use the oem computer. I need to do a 0-60 video but really do not think I lost anything going to 3.54 gears. Part of it is controlling the trans better some is utilizing torque and hp at the same time and holding gears longer.
Sent from my SM-G900V
- Thread starter
- #329
drove 450 miles this weekend but didn't have time to fill the tank before i left. filled up about 150 miles in with a 20 mpg on 350 miles. i'm sitting at a little over 300 miles and just under 1/2 tank now. i should be able to get 450 miles out of this tank. it's amazing. could run 80 all day but tried to keep it under 75 to get some numbers. i'll post some pics from my phone but pulled the boat out in some loose rocky shore and getting over 20mpg. that was always my goal. i really think some more timing and i can get a few more out of it. but with cold weather coming it will be spring before i really push the limit as cold starts are an issue. my old 98 12v on a 5 F High day had 2 vehicles hooked to it for 2 hours when my batteries gave up. timing on the 98 12v was about 16 from the factory the highest factory setting. a lot of people run 18+ with some real gains and side affects. i might have to change twice a year based on conditions. I've never measured the actually but the 1987 VE California truck is probably way off that.
- Thread starter
- #331
453 miles on my last tank just over 20 mpg 300 miles of highway at 70-75 the rest lake roads pulling boats around the point and normal around town.
still cant get anything out of my Dakota Digital to run the tach. as soon as Turbophil gets his back from paint ill look at the setting on his to see what i might be doing wrong.
still cant get anything out of my Dakota Digital to run the tach. as soon as Turbophil gets his back from paint ill look at the setting on his to see what i might be doing wrong.
What setting are you using? I think mine is set for 8 cylinder diesel or something like that. I know its not set like you would think it should be. I won't be home for another week but I'll try to snap a photo of how it's set.
- Thread starter
- #334
Finally got the tach working. The standard output is correct but setting do not save when you go into set-up so I was changing out put modes without my inputs staying with the low voltage pull up function on.
I also started looking at making a roof rack. Starting with the mounts. Got some feed back that the round and strength shapes didn't jive well. Going to go with all strength lines on the cutouts with the shortest one. It's 4.5" tall that will weld onto and 1x2 rectangle tube kicked out at and 30* angle so I can recess some LED lights in it shining down. It will be slow progress. Hope to have it done by Christmas.
Sent from my SM-G900V
I also started looking at making a roof rack. Starting with the mounts. Got some feed back that the round and strength shapes didn't jive well. Going to go with all strength lines on the cutouts with the shortest one. It's 4.5" tall that will weld onto and 1x2 rectangle tube kicked out at and 30* angle so I can recess some LED lights in it shining down. It will be slow progress. Hope to have it done by Christmas.
Sent from my SM-G900V
Slow progress and done by Christmas sound like warp speed to me lol
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
I would think that to get better clamping force on your rail, you would need make the bolt vertical (or thereabouts) so that you can pull the foot down into the rail. With your current design, the downward force on the rail will be limited to gravity and the weight of the rack.
- Thread starter
- #337
I'm not really trying to cinch it down. It clamps firmly it's simple. But you are correct it's not all the rage right now. Gravity is doing most of the work. Wide base to even out the load.
Sent from my SM-G900V
Sent from my SM-G900V
Make sure you account for a bit of deflection in your rack. Mine is about 1/2" away from the ribs and with the RTT and other load it's moves a bit. It's not hit yet but it's close.
- Thread starter
- #339
Thanks for the heads up. That 1/2" is unloaded correct. That was my plan shooting for .5-.75 clearance
What are your cross bars made of and what's the separation between
Sent from my SM-G900V
Mine is a modified Baja rack. The load bars are actually the floor of the rack. I had it set up with 3/4" clearance with 1"x2" load bars in the past and had very little deflection. This new set up is lower but has yet to make any contact. Having said that I have not put a lot of miles on it due to other issues.
