4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues
- Thread starter Dazed
- Start date
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Leaks are bad, but that should be an easy fix!
I have had that cover off before, no big deal. I wonder if the gasket was misaligned, damaged, or maybe the cover is loose? There are big windows on the pump body and not much sealing surface.
Glad it looks easy.
Doug
I have had that cover off before, no big deal. I wonder if the gasket was misaligned, damaged, or maybe the cover is loose? There are big windows on the pump body and not much sealing surface.
Glad it looks easy.
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #184
Thanks for the support guys. Im not going to count my chickens yet.....
Might get to it tonight. Will try to take some pictures.
Also need to drain the extra oil that I put in the engine when my dipstick said there was none; I guess the dipstick empty level really means there is some left in there.
Might get to it tonight. Will try to take some pictures.
Also need to drain the extra oil that I put in the engine when my dipstick said there was none; I guess the dipstick empty level really means there is some left in there.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #185
Took the cover off and it checked out the gasket. Gasket was in good shape and it looked to be seated on it well. I took the gasket off, cleaned everything up, reapplied gasket glue (or whatever its called) and then reinstalled the cover. I tightened the bolts down to about where they were before, based solely on my feel. I didnt want to strip the bolts and it was at a weird angle so I couldn't get a great judge of it. When I test ran it, it started to leak again from the same spot. So I tightened each of the bolts about another turn. In having it run for ~15min it wasnt leaking after the second tightening. I will continue to monitor it.
Also adjusted my idle down from ~900-950 to ~750. I may want to put it a hair up to ~800, but I will drive it this way for a bit and see how it feels.
Also adjusted my idle down from ~900-950 to ~750. I may want to put it a hair up to ~800, but I will drive it this way for a bit and see how it feels.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #186
Man was I o so very wrong about fixing it..it may be worse. Will hopefully tackle it this weekend or tomorrow.
Also need to get that idle to 800.
When reving the engine to get the leak to show itself, I also found a pinhole boost leak in a welded seam on my to-manifold intake pipe. Need to fix that and I suspect it will quite down some. Taking this off will help get to the oil leak more.
From your seat in the cab, can you see the top of your ARB bumper? I am wondering if I should set it higher than it currently is. Its on the lowest notch right now.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #187
I managed to do a proper boost leak test yesterday. It looks like it is leaking to some extent at every clamp, with some being worse than others.
We're there any special things that needed to be done with the clamps, the silicon hose, and the pipes before I put them on? Maybe the clamps needed lube so they could slide of the hose to compress it versus pulling on the hose and crumpling it?
Got the idle set up to 800 and it's awesome.
Have some foaming engine degreaser to clean the engine with so I can find the leaks.
We're there any special things that needed to be done with the clamps, the silicon hose, and the pipes before I put them on? Maybe the clamps needed lube so they could slide of the hose to compress it versus pulling on the hose and crumpling it?
Got the idle set up to 800 and it's awesome.
Have some foaming engine degreaser to clean the engine with so I can find the leaks.
What type of clamps did you use? Hose or T-bolt?
Hose do not tighten evenly and can leak, and t-bolts can be tightened so much you can deform the pipe.
I used t-bolt and have had no issues.
Doug
Hose do not tighten evenly and can leak, and t-bolts can be tightened so much you can deform the pipe.
I used t-bolt and have had no issues.
Doug
The silicone couplers should snugly slip over the pipes, the clamps are to snug them up and keep them from blowing off. If you are tightening them to the point that the silicone couplers are wrinkling then there too big. Do all the pipe ends have a bead rolled on them? I have never put any lube on my hose clamps, with good beads on the pipes, correct size couplers and good t bolt style hose clamps I have never had an issue with boost leaks.
On your injection pump leak is there a chance that cover is slightly warped? Maybe try making a new slightly thicker gasket for it? Also there is this great stuff from Permatex for the aviation world, I have used it on pesky gaskets in the past with good success just make sure both surfaces are clean of any oil and install then give it a day to set up. http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...on-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail
On your injection pump leak is there a chance that cover is slightly warped? Maybe try making a new slightly thicker gasket for it? Also there is this great stuff from Permatex for the aviation world, I have used it on pesky gaskets in the past with good success just make sure both surfaces are clean of any oil and install then give it a day to set up. http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...on-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #190
T-bolt clamps.
The silicon isn't wrinckling but it isn't slick at all for the clamp to move over it. The hose fits snuggly over the pipe. Much of the pipe doesn't have the a lip as i needed to cut it to size. It's possible the pipe is deformed. I will check when I take it appart.
I fixed the IP leak by creating a gasket with stuff called "the right stuff". It worked well and was pretty easy. With that fixed, I can look for the other leaks. I think it's leaking around the pan. And possibly at one bolt on the timing cover. I will know more tomorrow probably.
The silicon isn't wrinckling but it isn't slick at all for the clamp to move over it. The hose fits snuggly over the pipe. Much of the pipe doesn't have the a lip as i needed to cut it to size. It's possible the pipe is deformed. I will check when I take it appart.
I fixed the IP leak by creating a gasket with stuff called "the right stuff". It worked well and was pretty easy. With that fixed, I can look for the other leaks. I think it's leaking around the pan. And possibly at one bolt on the timing cover. I will know more tomorrow probably.
It is possible with T bolt clamps to deform the pipe if its aluminium. I would also suggest getting beads put on your pipes, most fab shops have bead rollers.
Glad the IP leak got sorted out, I'm dreading tracking oil leaks on my 4BD once I get it in after the rebuild. Doing all I can now to minimize/eliminate them.
I will give you a bit of advice on something I saw in one of your pictures. The oil line for the IP from the filter housing worries me a bit. The short section of rigid stock steel hose that goes to the bras fitting for the braided line, issue I see there is vibration and that rigid line getting work hardened and failing. I have seen that before multiple times when people do the same thing for turbo oil feeds. Just wanted to mention it so you can keep an eye on it.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #192
It is possible with T bolt clamps to deform the pipe if its aluminium. I would also suggest getting beads put on your pipes, most fab shops have bead roller
I will give you a bit of advice on something I saw in one of your pictures. The oil line for the IP from the filter housing worries me a bit. The short section of rigid stock steel hose that goes to the bras fitting for the braided line, issue I see there is vibration and that rigid line getting work hardened and failing. I have seen that before multiple times when people do the same thing for turbo oil feeds. Just wanted to mention it so you can keep an eye on it.
I know of a place I can go that should have a bead roller.
What would you suggest for that oil line to fix the problem? What have other done?
Ah right, forgot about that. I have not got that far on my engine yet to dig into it. Let me look at mine over the weekend and see what I can come up with.
Anyone know what the thread is in the banjo bolts? 8mmx1.0?
I brazed a male adapter to the IP hard line as close tho the support as possible. I added a support to the SS braided line also nearby and have had no issue in more 20K miles . The fitting are metric, it's a common fitting, but I forget the size. Here is a picture of mine.
I don;t have beads on all my intake pipes and have not had issues. My hose sections are fairly tight going on, maybe whatever you used to help slip the hoses on is leaving them too slippery? Seems unlikely with only 20 pounds of boost, but stranger things hace happened.
Glad the pump leak was pretty painless. On the oil pan, I used a Permatex anaerobic sealant which works really well. Maybe try that if you have to change it.
Doug
I don;t have beads on all my intake pipes and have not had issues. My hose sections are fairly tight going on, maybe whatever you used to help slip the hoses on is leaving them too slippery? Seems unlikely with only 20 pounds of boost, but stranger things hace happened.
Glad the pump leak was pretty painless. On the oil pan, I used a Permatex anaerobic sealant which works really well. Maybe try that if you have to change it.
Doug
I looked at and worked on mine this weekend but was limited with time and did not get to the inj pump feed line yet. It is defiantly a fine thread if Earl's makes an adapter in the same thread then it would be easy to use -3 or -4 line to them with a handful of fittings and some line.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #199
So I havent driven it much the last couple weeks because I managed to slice my wrist open (5 stiches!) on some of the intercooler pipe when I was trying to reassemble it after having beads rolled on all ends. I got it reassembled yesterday and it sounds much better and creates boost much quicker. I still need to go over to my friend's shop and do a boost leak test on it.
In other news, I noticed that the drain pipe out of the power steering pump was contacted by the differential. I expected this to happen but wanted to see if it actually would. It is pretty well crushed but the power steering is still working, although I am sure that it is leaking (possibly from the reservoir). I am not quite sure how I am going to fix and address this issue. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry I dont have a good picture of it.
Also, I am pretty sure my other leaks are coming from around the oil pan, although I haven't confirmed that yet.
In other news, I noticed that the drain pipe out of the power steering pump was contacted by the differential. I expected this to happen but wanted to see if it actually would. It is pretty well crushed but the power steering is still working, although I am sure that it is leaking (possibly from the reservoir). I am not quite sure how I am going to fix and address this issue. Anyone have any ideas? Sorry I dont have a good picture of it.
Also, I am pretty sure my other leaks are coming from around the oil pan, although I haven't confirmed that yet.
