4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues

[Dazed]

Ah, the clutch slave cylinder.

Recall that I kept my driveline in its stock location.

The original clutch slave cylinder will not work with Dustin's adapter plate. After Dustin did a TON of research for me into what slave cylinders had the same bore and stroke size, he came up with a few options. I dont remember all of them, except the 2003 Toyota Camry Slave Cylinder that I ended up using (some details are around post 84).

To get it in there, I had to make a new bracket. The bracket had to attach to the stock bolt holes and then allow for the Camry slave cylinder. I ended up having to take a new bolt and grinding down its head to maybe 1/2 or 1/3 its original height to get the new slave cylinder in there correctly. (Ignore all of the extra holes, I didnt make a new bracket after screwing up a couples times.) Once I had the holes in the right place and it looked and felt right (I also angled the cylinder so that it was slightly tilted into the center of the vehicle), I welded on nuts to make it easy/possible to install it.

I also had to bend/make a line/pipe to get it to work. I dont have a picture of this, sorry.

So far, its worked great and I have had no problems.

Pictures will probably say it all. This bracket was a big deal so I am going to post a bunch of pics over a few posts. I will try to get some more pictures of it mounted.

 

[Dazed]

 

[Dazed]

 

[Dazed]

I made a simple AC compressor bracket. It is a simple all thread bracket. It has worked well.

 

[Dazed]

For the fuel filters I followed what Don did for his. Details are in post 18 below, but there are others elsewhere like post 198.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=6598483&postcount=18


https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=6598483&postcount=198

So far it has worked well. The original bracket (pictured) was connected to the oil filter relocation bracket. It ended cramping the AC lines on the firewall. I planned to eventually redo the bracket to deal with the cramping, but had the opportunity sooner then expected as the coupling between the fuel filters had a leak. So I pulled the bracket off and cut it in half making two brackets. I also had to remove the cracked and probably unused windshield washer fluid reservoir. Overall, I am pretty happy with it. I like the two separate brackets much more.

 

[longbow]

Hey, that filter system is sexy!!! Love that prime button too!!

Don

 

[Dazed]

Hey, that filter system is sexy!!! Love that prime button too!!

Don

I fogot, getting the pipe to the bottom of the filter pressed in was a bit of a challenge. Ended up at a local machine shop.

 

[longbow]

Well, I bet you still came in way under the $500+ dollars that an Airdog costs.

 

[Dazed]

Very true! I think my total (excluding the actual filters) was less than $200. The brass fittings were surprisingly expensive.

 

[Dazed]

Good new: My new ARB winch bumper and 8274 look awesome.

Bad news: I found my major leak and its from my "fully rebuilt" Injection Pump.

I noticed that when I got home, I still had a major leak going on even though I had installed my new air oil separator. And I also noticed that the IP right at the seam between the IP and the governor was covered in oil. I check my dispstick level and it was basically zero. So I added 4 quarts of oil and then let it settle while I started on the bumper. When I got the bumper on but before tightening all of the bolts, I turned on the truck to let it run and see what was going on. After 10-15 minutes at idle rpms, I started to notice a drip. I went over to the spot I had seen before and it was leaking like crazy. Pumping out. Sadly, it was a bit too dark for a video, but one will be coming soon.

It is time to call Redding Fuel Injection and see what they have to say. The rebuild sure as hell wasnt cheap.

Crap. And there go my weekend drive plans.

Oh yeah, does anyone have any recommendations for removing the IP with the engine in the truck? It was a pain with the engine on the stand!

 

[longbow]

Crap, that sucks! I've had to do that and it is no fun. Open up the little timing window cover and rotate the engine until the timing mark is dead on the pointer and then remove the pump. Try and make a witness paint mark or something on the IP drive gear location after you remove it so you can put it in the same spot when you re-install the IP so that it will be back to dead on the pointer when it is bolted back up.

I wish I could tell you it was easy, but it is a pain to get it back in with that pointer dead on. I removed the rear bracket off my IP to make re-install easier and then put the mount back on once it was positioned correctly and bolted up front. Getting the pump out is tricky and takes some jockeying around to get it out of there.

Don

 

[Dazed]

I totally forgot about the timing mark, thanks for the heads up. And good idea about the additional mark!

 

[Dazed]

Does the oil need to be drained from the engine to remove the IP? I am thinking that if I leave it for a day to settle, I won't need to drain it.

 

[doug720]

Bummer!

I also have removed my IP and as Don said, it's kind of a pain. Just follow his suggestions and I might add a couple.

I used a long extension with a universal to the inside IP bolts. I had to twist the pump out and back in from the gear sets which makes it easy to get a tooth off on reinstall.

You are close, keep at it!

Doug

 

[longbow]

Doug's way is dead on and how I did mine.
I didn't drain the oil when I did mine.

Don

 

[Dazed]

I just talked to Redding fuel injection. They mentioned that the tappet cover gasket shifting on install could be the issue. So I am going to take the tappet cover off and check that before I remove the entire pump. I'm also going to take a video before and after doing this to document.

Removing it sounds like a right of passage.

I'm considerijg renaming the truck from Blue to Murphy.

 

[doug720]

Tappet cover? It's on the other side of the engine, or are they calling something on the IP a tappet cover?

Now the oil cooler and/or the oil filter mount could leak.

Hoping it's a simple fix

Doug

 

[Dazed]

I will need a few beers.

The IP also has lifters and tappets like the engine apparently...it has a camshaft as well. They are refering to the cover on the outside of the IP.

I dont think it's the oil cooler cover as it looked like it was at the seam between the IP and governor, which is near that cover.

I will try for a video after work today.

 

[longbow]

Well, hopefully it will be that cover behind the fuel pump if that is what they call the tappet cover. I would think that you could look from the top or front and see if that was what was leaking.
!
Hope that is what it is though as that would sure make it much easier.

I wouldn't rename it yet though, every heart transplant has a few side effects that weren't planned on. I had a bunch on my first one with oil leaks and coolant leaks and then I got a new injection pump and injectors and a new turbo and my brake booster died right as I was getting it on the road, it has been running flawless for over 30k miles. I know it does suck though, especially when you have done all this work and are excited to get it on the road.

Just keep plugging along and it will be running great soon!

Don

 

[Dazed]

So it looks like it is coming from that Injection Pump tappet cover. Three pictures attached. The first is with the engine off and having sat for a full day. The second is after about 12 minutes. The third is after about 20minutes. The video (see link, I dont know how to embed videos yet) is of the leak after 20 minutes or so.

I didnt have the light to fix it today, but I will take a look at it later this week.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=2yzDPcMaQOo