4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues
- Thread starter Dazed
- Start date
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Clint
Clint
Congratulations!
Where's the post and pictures?
Doug
Where's the post and pictures?
Doug
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Hi Mitch, Haven't heard from you in awhile. How's your rig running? When you did your rebuild of the 4BD1T, did you replace your fuel injectors and glow plugs or just clean them up? Getting ready to put mine all back together and was just wondering. They are pretty clean and I just cleaned them up, was just checking to see if it was worth it to buy all new ones or just reuse the old.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #146
There are leaks that I am trying to sort out still and all sorts of little crap that doesnt seem to end, so I havent really gotten to drive it. The exhaust guy needed some parts so I took it home this weekend to work on it and got some stuff done. The power steering return line (I didnt know until today that that hose is any different than fuel hose) needs 9/16 which no one makes. 5/8 is too big and leaks and 1/2 that I am currently trying to get on (need to redo it with power steering specific hose) is very tight and a struggle to get on.
I ended up totally replacing my injectors with OEM ones...not cheap. The place that I sent my injection pump to, recommended by someone on 4btswaps, Redding Fuel injection, told me that they needed to be replaced and same for the lifters inside the injection pump. I am not sure that I wasnt taken for a ride or if there wasnt a better or cheaper option. In my opinion, based on how much I paid and how long they had it, they did a poor job of cleaning it up. They may have rebuilt it, but they didnt paint it, check bolts or anything. As an example, the idle speed adjustment bolt was seized in place when it was sent back to me. I cringe to think about trying to turn the more power screw when I get to that point.
I would reuse the old ones if you can, but at $250+ a pop, they arent cheap.
For the glow plugs, I reused the ones that I could. On two, the small threaded rods on the top of them, were broken or bent (one it was like that on the engine and the other I messed up while climbing around my engine bay). They are pretty cheap if you get after market. One of mine is OEM and that was ~$75. But the second, I got from ebay maybe and it came from a company called Exus Corportation, exusparts.com, and it cost $12.50. I eventually need to setup my glow plug circuit, but luckily its not really needed on the 4BD1Ts unless its real cold.
I ended up totally replacing my injectors with OEM ones...not cheap. The place that I sent my injection pump to, recommended by someone on 4btswaps, Redding Fuel injection, told me that they needed to be replaced and same for the lifters inside the injection pump. I am not sure that I wasnt taken for a ride or if there wasnt a better or cheaper option. In my opinion, based on how much I paid and how long they had it, they did a poor job of cleaning it up. They may have rebuilt it, but they didnt paint it, check bolts or anything. As an example, the idle speed adjustment bolt was seized in place when it was sent back to me. I cringe to think about trying to turn the more power screw when I get to that point.
I would reuse the old ones if you can, but at $250+ a pop, they arent cheap.
For the glow plugs, I reused the ones that I could. On two, the small threaded rods on the top of them, were broken or bent (one it was like that on the engine and the other I messed up while climbing around my engine bay). They are pretty cheap if you get after market. One of mine is OEM and that was ~$75. But the second, I got from ebay maybe and it came from a company called Exus Corportation, exusparts.com, and it cost $12.50. I eventually need to setup my glow plug circuit, but luckily its not really needed on the 4BD1Ts unless its real cold.
Bummer on all the extra work and dollars, but each step (and Dollar) gets you closer.
For your PS hose, the return line is low pressure and can be a good quality oil line. I used some blue hose from Earls Supply in Lawndale, CA. They have remnants/surplus pieces of many sizes, including a 9/16" fabric covered hose that has a higher temp and pressure than the blue. Ask for Tom, no connection, just a customer.
Getting closer, keep at it.
Doug
For your PS hose, the return line is low pressure and can be a good quality oil line. I used some blue hose from Earls Supply in Lawndale, CA. They have remnants/surplus pieces of many sizes, including a 9/16" fabric covered hose that has a higher temp and pressure than the blue. Ask for Tom, no connection, just a customer.
Getting closer, keep at it.
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #148
Im home sick today, so I am going to take this opportunity to start my write up of the truck and putting in the 4BD1T instead of giving small updates and my bitching about it! I have a ton of pictures, I am going to be limited to three per post since I dont want to deal with registering at another site to post pics at.
So to begin.....
I bought my mid year 1985 FJ60 from a woman in Pasadena when I was living in Tucson about 4 and a half years ago. She was the original owner and took very good care of it. It had some issues, as do most 60s, but I drove it like crazy and it was my daily driver when I lived in Boston, taking me on 30-mile (one-way) commute everyday. I fondly named him Blue. (He is a guy because he didnt play with Barbies and makeup as a kid, he played with Tonka trucks and climbed trees).
Once I moved to Santa Barbara, I got my other car back and started driving it more as Blue was going on the fritz. My first real foray into work on the truck was removing and replacing the radiator (I had it rebuilt) and then pulling off and redoing the manifolds on the old 2F. That was a huge job and lots of fun. Eventually, I got tired of all the vacuum leaks and such and I had always really wanted an overland vehicle (I had also always wanted an FJ60, but I got that!). So with a little push from a friend, I started on my journey and sold the 2F with the idea of putting in a diesel. It had about 266k on it. I was told later by the person I sold it to: "It was in perfect shape and didnt need any machining". The truck had no rust and had already gone and gotten through places that I think it shouldnt have made it out of.
I dont remember if it was after I sold the engine or before, but either way, it wasnt driven much or at all between the two events; I put on a new Old Man Emu suspension courtesy of Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. That was a crazy three day weekend of lots of work, but it got done!
Around this time, I also bought another FJ60 that had a 5-speed in it. I got it for a steal, took the five speed and a couple other parts, drove it for a while, then sold it. Excellent running truck that one...she was named Whitney.
Next up...diesels.
So to begin.....
I bought my mid year 1985 FJ60 from a woman in Pasadena when I was living in Tucson about 4 and a half years ago. She was the original owner and took very good care of it. It had some issues, as do most 60s, but I drove it like crazy and it was my daily driver when I lived in Boston, taking me on 30-mile (one-way) commute everyday. I fondly named him Blue. (He is a guy because he didnt play with Barbies and makeup as a kid, he played with Tonka trucks and climbed trees).
Once I moved to Santa Barbara, I got my other car back and started driving it more as Blue was going on the fritz. My first real foray into work on the truck was removing and replacing the radiator (I had it rebuilt) and then pulling off and redoing the manifolds on the old 2F. That was a huge job and lots of fun. Eventually, I got tired of all the vacuum leaks and such and I had always really wanted an overland vehicle (I had also always wanted an FJ60, but I got that!). So with a little push from a friend, I started on my journey and sold the 2F with the idea of putting in a diesel. It had about 266k on it. I was told later by the person I sold it to: "It was in perfect shape and didnt need any machining". The truck had no rust and had already gone and gotten through places that I think it shouldnt have made it out of.
I dont remember if it was after I sold the engine or before, but either way, it wasnt driven much or at all between the two events; I put on a new Old Man Emu suspension courtesy of Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters. That was a crazy three day weekend of lots of work, but it got done!
Around this time, I also bought another FJ60 that had a 5-speed in it. I got it for a steal, took the five speed and a couple other parts, drove it for a while, then sold it. Excellent running truck that one...she was named Whitney.
Next up...diesels.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #149
oh yeah, I forgot to say on the past post, I rebuilt the front end during all of this time too.
I had done a ton of research (I am an engineer and enjoy researching) on which diesel to buy. I ruled out the Mercedes OM617 as it wasnt going to have the power I wanted and its max torque was near its max rpm. I ruled out the 4BT since it was apparently really loud and a huge engine, needing a spring over axle in addition to the heavy OME shocks. I ruled out toyota diesels because I simply couldnt get one and not one that was cheap. I had read a lot about the 4BDxT engines and settled on the direct injected 4BD1T after most everyone said "I like my 2T, but would have loved a 1T". I also decided that I wanted to rebuild the engine to learn about it and to get to say, that I did! Luckily, I had the help of an engine shop here in SB that has since closed down. I spend most Friday afternoons there for 3 or 4 months. So I set about finding a 4BD1T....this was a challenge as SB is a small place. I eventually found one and convinced the owner to sell me his truck, which had been sitting for a few years. It started right up, and although it didnt get out of 2nd gear (problem with the auto tranny), I drove it home. I promptly named the engine The Lobster after the emblem on the side of the NPR truck.
I then took the engine out and started taking it apart, trying to label and keep track of everything.
Keep in mind, I had never attempted anything of this scale before and really had no idea what I was doing. I do recall that taking the sleeves out was tough work! Dustin Allmaras, 69rambler, made a sleeve puller/installer that I ended up using. I also bought my engine to transmission adapter plate from him. Many people have had issues with him. Other than being hard to contact a few times, he has been exceptionally great to work with, going beyond what I would expect and has provided great support when I've messed stuff up, or something didnt work as planned. His product is also of exceptional quality. I would buy his stuff again in a heart beat.
I had done a ton of research (I am an engineer and enjoy researching) on which diesel to buy. I ruled out the Mercedes OM617 as it wasnt going to have the power I wanted and its max torque was near its max rpm. I ruled out the 4BT since it was apparently really loud and a huge engine, needing a spring over axle in addition to the heavy OME shocks. I ruled out toyota diesels because I simply couldnt get one and not one that was cheap. I had read a lot about the 4BDxT engines and settled on the direct injected 4BD1T after most everyone said "I like my 2T, but would have loved a 1T". I also decided that I wanted to rebuild the engine to learn about it and to get to say, that I did! Luckily, I had the help of an engine shop here in SB that has since closed down. I spend most Friday afternoons there for 3 or 4 months. So I set about finding a 4BD1T....this was a challenge as SB is a small place. I eventually found one and convinced the owner to sell me his truck, which had been sitting for a few years. It started right up, and although it didnt get out of 2nd gear (problem with the auto tranny), I drove it home. I promptly named the engine The Lobster after the emblem on the side of the NPR truck.
I then took the engine out and started taking it apart, trying to label and keep track of everything.
Keep in mind, I had never attempted anything of this scale before and really had no idea what I was doing. I do recall that taking the sleeves out was tough work! Dustin Allmaras, 69rambler, made a sleeve puller/installer that I ended up using. I also bought my engine to transmission adapter plate from him. Many people have had issues with him. Other than being hard to contact a few times, he has been exceptionally great to work with, going beyond what I would expect and has provided great support when I've messed stuff up, or something didnt work as planned. His product is also of exceptional quality. I would buy his stuff again in a heart beat.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #150
As I was rebuilding the engine, I replaced or rebuilt everything. I wanted a super reliable engine that would last a lifetime. There were some headaches along the way, such as the injection pump and injectors that I mentioned in an earlier post, breaking a set of piston rings, etc., but eventually it was completed and came home.
A note for installing the sleeves. Use dry ice. Leave the sleeves in the dry ice for an hour, even two, or more. Then use a torch to heat the cylinder walls. The sleeves will slide right it.
Also forgot to mention, my cam lobes were pealing a bit, so I sent it down to Crower Cams to have it reground. They did good work. I had to replace the tappets as one was lost along the way, but they were cheap.
You might also notice that the garage is different between earlier pictures and these. I had to move during this. I do not recommend that.
A note for installing the sleeves. Use dry ice. Leave the sleeves in the dry ice for an hour, even two, or more. Then use a torch to heat the cylinder walls. The sleeves will slide right it.
Also forgot to mention, my cam lobes were pealing a bit, so I sent it down to Crower Cams to have it reground. They did good work. I had to replace the tappets as one was lost along the way, but they were cheap.
You might also notice that the garage is different between earlier pictures and these. I had to move during this. I do not recommend that.
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Enjoying the build thread!
I had hoped to drop one of these in my '82 fj60 but local emissions laws make it impossible.
Keep it coming!
Cheers,
Ed
I had hoped to drop one of these in my '82 fj60 but local emissions laws make it impossible.
Keep it coming!
Cheers,
Ed
How did the piston rings break?
Engine looks great!
Engine looks great!
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #154
local emissions laws make it impossible.
I have no idea how I am going to deal with California emissions, but the engine is newer than the truck, so that apparently help.s
Yeah, i didnt paint the IP, probably should have and doing it now isnt going to happen!
We broke them when expanding them to put them on. oops. It was a simple mistake.
thanks for all the compliments guys.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #156
I have a long list of items that I want to go over and talk about, along with pictures. I am going to break each post up into a single topic (maybe two if pictures allow it).
First one(s) are on the engine mounts and frame mounts. For the engine mounts, I used the stock ones, good and easy decision. For the mounts to the frame, I, like others, ordered some box steel cut to 40 degrees. I then cut them so they became C-channels and werent too long. I went with 1/4" steel. May have been overkill, but I am good with that. I stick welded them to the frame (it was fun to learn to stick weld, got a nice tan from it.) The pieces on each side were slightly different sizes as can be seen in the pictures.
Also, a very important note, I kept the transmission in the stock location. This created some issues that I will address, but I am happy that I did. Once I figured out the solutions, which seemed so obvious when I figured them out, things worked out.
I ended up with a few degrees vertical tilt to the rear. I did my best to get the engine straight in the horizontal (parallel to the ground) direction. There shouldnt be any roll to the engine thanks to the engine mounts.
We did an incredible number of fit checks during the process; taking the engine in and out. The biggest issue (at that time and it stayed an issue and still sort of is) was at and near the area where the heater lines to the cab are on the firewall.
First one(s) are on the engine mounts and frame mounts. For the engine mounts, I used the stock ones, good and easy decision. For the mounts to the frame, I, like others, ordered some box steel cut to 40 degrees. I then cut them so they became C-channels and werent too long. I went with 1/4" steel. May have been overkill, but I am good with that. I stick welded them to the frame (it was fun to learn to stick weld, got a nice tan from it.) The pieces on each side were slightly different sizes as can be seen in the pictures.
Also, a very important note, I kept the transmission in the stock location. This created some issues that I will address, but I am happy that I did. Once I figured out the solutions, which seemed so obvious when I figured them out, things worked out.
I ended up with a few degrees vertical tilt to the rear. I did my best to get the engine straight in the horizontal (parallel to the ground) direction. There shouldnt be any roll to the engine thanks to the engine mounts.
We did an incredible number of fit checks during the process; taking the engine in and out. The biggest issue (at that time and it stayed an issue and still sort of is) was at and near the area where the heater lines to the cab are on the firewall.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #157
Following on with those pesky heater lines on the firewall. They required that the accelerator linkage bracket be modified.
To make all the hoses work, I had to employ a lot of right angles. There has to be a better option for this. If someone is going to do this again, sort this area out BEFORE putting in the engine for the final time. They were a royal PITA to deal with.
To make all the hoses work, I had to employ a lot of right angles. There has to be a better option for this. If someone is going to do this again, sort this area out BEFORE putting in the engine for the final time. They were a royal PITA to deal with.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #158
heads up....If you are using Dustin's adapter kit, the flywheel/clutch bottom cover comes in contact with the flywheel.
I expected it to be too short since I had to grind away the very upper part of the bellhousing that is recessed into the flywheel cavity to make way for bolts to the block, so I added three washers between the bellhousing and the cover. The flywheel ended up contacting the front (part that faces forward)of the cover and not the bottom. I might be able to grind it down, but its already pretty thin sheet. I am looking into a solution.
The flywheel teeth were partially damaged, but the truck still starts. Also, the front (part facing the engine) of the flywheel is no longer perfectly smooth. I think this is ok since nothing should be contacting it.
Finally getting an exhaust tomorrow after getting the right v band clamp.
I also moved all of the differential breathers as high as I could in the engine compartment. I ran a hose from the rear to the engine compartment for that one.
Also installed nice, wonderful, comfy new procar seats. Easy install...after I had to helicoil one of the bolt holes.
Installed hood shocks. Awesome. Super easy to do.
Received my new ARB bumper......need to install it.
Hopefully fixed some leaks....turned the truck on and moved it so I can make a mess away from the original puddles.
More updates on my list of things later.
I expected it to be too short since I had to grind away the very upper part of the bellhousing that is recessed into the flywheel cavity to make way for bolts to the block, so I added three washers between the bellhousing and the cover. The flywheel ended up contacting the front (part that faces forward)of the cover and not the bottom. I might be able to grind it down, but its already pretty thin sheet. I am looking into a solution.
The flywheel teeth were partially damaged, but the truck still starts. Also, the front (part facing the engine) of the flywheel is no longer perfectly smooth. I think this is ok since nothing should be contacting it.
Finally getting an exhaust tomorrow after getting the right v band clamp.
I also moved all of the differential breathers as high as I could in the engine compartment. I ran a hose from the rear to the engine compartment for that one.
Also installed nice, wonderful, comfy new procar seats. Easy install...after I had to helicoil one of the bolt holes.
Installed hood shocks. Awesome. Super easy to do.
Received my new ARB bumper......need to install it.
Hopefully fixed some leaks....turned the truck on and moved it so I can make a mess away from the original puddles.
More updates on my list of things later.
Congratulations on a job well done!
You do learn many things doing one of these.
Take care and enjoy! Welcome to the club.
Doug
You do learn many things doing one of these.
Take care and enjoy! Welcome to the club.
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #160
Alright...an update.
I fixed an intake/intercooler/boost leak by tightening all of the clamps down more. There is probably some small leaks still but it doesnt whistle at over 10psi boost anymore.
I also added in my air oil separator so it doesn't leak like a sieve out of the valve cover. (Note: I haven't driven it with the new separator yet, but its on there).
Exhaust is on there. I have a 2.5" downpipe that switches to 3" as soon as it can. It goes through a magnaflow exhaust. Its quite. If you're in or near Goleta/Santa Barbara, go see Danny at Goleta Muffler; he is awesome!
I sent my old/original injectors off to longbow and he said they were trashed...worsted he'd seen from an Isuzu. Glad that I replaced them and it indicates that the shop I sent the IP to, Redding Fuel Injection, is reputable.
I still need to install my ARB bumper and mount the 8274 to it.
I still need to adjust the idle speed down.
The pull to turn off cable is being challenging and sticks much of the time....need to sort this out.
I fixed an intake/intercooler/boost leak by tightening all of the clamps down more. There is probably some small leaks still but it doesnt whistle at over 10psi boost anymore.
I also added in my air oil separator so it doesn't leak like a sieve out of the valve cover. (Note: I haven't driven it with the new separator yet, but its on there).
Exhaust is on there. I have a 2.5" downpipe that switches to 3" as soon as it can. It goes through a magnaflow exhaust. Its quite. If you're in or near Goleta/Santa Barbara, go see Danny at Goleta Muffler; he is awesome!
I sent my old/original injectors off to longbow and he said they were trashed...worsted he'd seen from an Isuzu. Glad that I replaced them and it indicates that the shop I sent the IP to, Redding Fuel Injection, is reputable.
I still need to install my ARB bumper and mount the 8274 to it.
I still need to adjust the idle speed down.
The pull to turn off cable is being challenging and sticks much of the time....need to sort this out.
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