4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues
- Thread starter Dazed
- Start date
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What changed between when you turned the motor before and now? Have you verified that all of those things were done correctly?
Didn't you say the trans adapter bolts made contact with the flywheel?
Could they have mashed something?
With the glow plugs out it should not be very difficult to spin this motor over, easy with a half inch breaker bar.
Could you just tap the starter, or if you are not at that point yet, you can attach a positive jumper cable to the starter positive lug and a battery, then just tap the ground to the starter case. It should spark/jump/turn the motor or not...
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #125
Starter wasnt installed and I have learned my lesson with trying apply lots of torque (starter) to something that is supposed to move pretty easily on its own.
With some help from my neighbor, we figured out that the flywheel gear ring was contacting the upper part of the bellhousing that drops down (recessed from the outside) to allow for the bolts from the bellhousing to the engine. I took a grinder to the places and took off somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch so that the radius of the bellhousing was smooth. That worked perfectly and everything turns now.
I mounted the flywheel, clutch, and transmission checking that I could turn the engine at each step.
With the tranny back in place and the engine back in its standard location, I am now able to work on everything else. Taking a break now, but got some of the oil lines attached and the passenger side intercooler tubing cut and fit checked. I need to order a clamp before I can install it. Onto the driver's side, which is much more complicated, later today.
Moral of the story is drink more beer to help relax.
With some help from my neighbor, we figured out that the flywheel gear ring was contacting the upper part of the bellhousing that drops down (recessed from the outside) to allow for the bolts from the bellhousing to the engine. I took a grinder to the places and took off somewhere between 1/16 and 1/8 inch so that the radius of the bellhousing was smooth. That worked perfectly and everything turns now.
I mounted the flywheel, clutch, and transmission checking that I could turn the engine at each step.
With the tranny back in place and the engine back in its standard location, I am now able to work on everything else. Taking a break now, but got some of the oil lines attached and the passenger side intercooler tubing cut and fit checked. I need to order a clamp before I can install it. Onto the driver's side, which is much more complicated, later today.
Moral of the story is drink more beer to help relax.
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Hi Mitch, have you been taking lots of pictures of all of the steps as you go? Be sure to post them as you go, it helps me as a guide when you do. I have gotten lots of good useful information so for and thanks again for the input on my thread also.
Ryan
Ryan
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #130
On mine, that space is filled by the fuel filters. Hmmm. I also got in the fj62 air housing bottom but my intercooler hoses/pipes are in the way, so I need to reroute a few things. My brake booster relocation bracket looks pretty good, but finding an M10x1.25 coupler to extend the actuator arm has been challenging.
Almost there.
Almost there.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #131
It runs!!!
It runs!
http://youtu.be/G1hzrVmu_Mg
There are a few small leaks and a few issues, but it runs!
It runs!
http://youtu.be/G1hzrVmu_Mg
There are a few small leaks and a few issues, but it runs!
Well done! Just got done driving mine 2500 miles to Cruise Moab and had a blast!
Be proud this is a great accomplishment.
Clint
Be proud this is a great accomplishment.
Clint
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #134
Thanks guys.
I need to adjust the idle but the screw was seized (I guess they didn't check that when it was rebuild) so I am doucing it with PB Blaster. The thermostat housing had a leak. I need to add my pull to turn off cable. The wastegate actuator isn't actuating (I can test this with my air compressor) and the silicon hose on the output of the turbo to the intercooler blew off and needs to be secured more...not using silicon is more likely. My boost gauge isn't working. Fuel, oil, and coolant leaks in a couple places. Should be mostly easy fixes....or thats the hope.
I need to adjust the idle but the screw was seized (I guess they didn't check that when it was rebuild) so I am doucing it with PB Blaster. The thermostat housing had a leak. I need to add my pull to turn off cable. The wastegate actuator isn't actuating (I can test this with my air compressor) and the silicon hose on the output of the turbo to the intercooler blew off and needs to be secured more...not using silicon is more likely. My boost gauge isn't working. Fuel, oil, and coolant leaks in a couple places. Should be mostly easy fixes....or thats the hope.
Congratulations, good job!
My suggestion is fix the some of the bigger issues and leaks, then drive it some and take care of bunch of little things at one time.
On the boost gauge, most times you wont get a good reading until the motor is under load. Revving it wont do it.
Keep moving forward!
Doug
My suggestion is fix the some of the bigger issues and leaks, then drive it some and take care of bunch of little things at one time.
On the boost gauge, most times you wont get a good reading until the motor is under load. Revving it wont do it.
Keep moving forward!
Doug
Dazed
Blue's Driver
- Thread starter
- #136
So I fixed most of the first round of leaks, but there are still a few:
- I need a new o-ring for the oil pump gear cover on the block, the new one that I got didnt fit. I dont recall if a new one came with the kit or not, but a new, correctly sized one, is needed. EDIT: Looks like I broke the cover with the wrong sized o-ring. Oops.
- The temp sensor that goes into the thermostat housing is leaking....I thought that it might when I installed it, but I have confirmed it now.
- Idle seems rough at 750rpm (per the dash gauge)
- My fuel filter system is leaking.
The last point is probably going to be a PITA with how I have it attached to my firewall. I cant seem to figure out how it is leaking from the gasket on the filter. There is also a leak at the junction between the filter housings. I think that I need to get this fixed before I drive it anywhere.
I am not sure about the low rpm engine stuff. It just doesnt sound quite right, a bit off, but not much. It goes away when you get to higher rpm. Could this be timing? I am not sure how to even start dealing with it.
- I need a new o-ring for the oil pump gear cover on the block, the new one that I got didnt fit. I dont recall if a new one came with the kit or not, but a new, correctly sized one, is needed. EDIT: Looks like I broke the cover with the wrong sized o-ring. Oops.
- The temp sensor that goes into the thermostat housing is leaking....I thought that it might when I installed it, but I have confirmed it now.
- Idle seems rough at 750rpm (per the dash gauge)
- My fuel filter system is leaking.
The last point is probably going to be a PITA with how I have it attached to my firewall. I cant seem to figure out how it is leaking from the gasket on the filter. There is also a leak at the junction between the filter housings. I think that I need to get this fixed before I drive it anywhere.
I am not sure about the low rpm engine stuff. It just doesnt sound quite right, a bit off, but not much. It goes away when you get to higher rpm. Could this be timing? I am not sure how to even start dealing with it.
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I have found these engines like a little higher idle than called for in the manual. Raise the idle and they smooth out with a nice sound.
Fuel issues are a pain, but better to fix now than to be sucking air and loosing prime out on the trail.
Doug
Fuel issues are a pain, but better to fix now than to be sucking air and loosing prime out on the trail.
Doug
Great job!! Cant wait to be at your stage with my 4BD1T swap.
