4BD1T into FJ60 Fit Issues

[astr]

OK cool. I could use the 10gauge line that is currently there for the sense but that is a large amount of impedance for the sense line. But the stock FJ60 alternator to battery line is a 10gauge...additional thoughts?

I did a quick look at the Isuzu FSM and they also use the equivelant of #10 but in another section they state that the maximum allowable amperage is 37 amps. Go figure! If you want to continue using the #10 as the primary feed to the battery, then I would recommend running the sense wire to the battery. A #18 wire would be more than sufficient as the current in the sense wire is negligible.

For whatever it is worth, impedance is defined as AC resistance and, since you are dealing with DC, does not apply here. Also, if there was an AC component, the impedance of a 6 ft. #10 wire running between two points would be negligible also.

 

[astr]

I am using Don's fuel filter system so it needs some extra help and I need a way to prime the system.

Just as a clarification, if you plan on using an electric pump to feed the IP-mounted lift pump, make sure it is the low pressure kind like would be used on a carburated gas vehicle (around 6 psi), not a pump that is used in an injected vehicle as they are capable of producing pressures upward of 60 psi.

 

[longbow]

astr makes a very good point there.

I am using the purolator facet gold pump and it puts out right at 5.7 psi. It is more about keeping positive pressure on the system and returning the aerated fuel back to the tank, than large amounts of pressure to the lift pump.

I forgot to ask but what pump did you go with?

Don

 

[Dazed]

It's a facet-purolator solid state electronic fuel pump.
4-7 psi
35 gal/hr

I based it off of the one on Don's thread.

Hopefully many more updates and accomplishments over the next few days and this weekend. I will be trying to figure out what I need to order for intercooler piping, working on the oil drain for the turbo....it's in an odd spot, and figuring out how to modify a 4bd2t intake tube for the he221w. Oh, and lots of electrical and getting hose cut to the right length.

 

[longbow]

Perfect! That is a great pump and a time tested design. They have used that same design pump in Cessna aircraft forever and it has an amazing track record for longevity.

Looking forward to seeing how that HE221 performs on this engine. Should be a perfect match.

Don

 

[GLTHFJ60]

One of the guys on 4btswaps just put a he221w on his 4bt. He reports something nuts like 20psi by 1800rpm. Should be a fun turbo!

 

[Dazed]

Large Setback

So it seems there has been a large setback.

In trying to remove the pin from the bellhousing in the space for the tach sensor with a bolt, trying to press/break it off (it ended up getting bent and then squished into the flywheel), I noticed that the bolts holding the bellhousing to the adapter plate actually make contact with the flywheel . I checked with a feeler gauge and I stopped checking with less than 0.002 inches clearance. A picture is attached. This basically means that I have to take off the tranny, flywheel, and each of those bolts and remove the lock washers. I am very glad that I found this but its going to be a HUGE setback in time to do this.

I am going to proceed with the rest of the swap: hoses, electrical, etc. and put this off for a bit.

If anyone is around Santa Barbara on Sunday, I could really use the help. Beer and food will be provided.

I am going to have the intake pipe to the turbo fabbed up by a guy in town, I dont have the skills needed to do that work....going to make a cardboard template here in a bit.

Mitch

 

[doug720]

BUMMER!

Glad you discovered this interference now, than when trying to start her up.

Sorry I can't help you out this weekend, but keep plugg'n along and you will finish and be proud of what you have done.

Doug

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Super bummer. You sure that the lock washers are supposed to be on there? I bet that with some red loc-tite, you'd be good to go without them.

 

[Dazed]

Yes it's very good that I discovered it now.
Some low/narrow/shallow head bolts and blue locktite should do the trick apparently. Now to try to get those bolts.

 

[doug720]

It looks like you can rotate the engine and change the bolts, at least the picture looks that way? If so, the job should not be too bad.

Also, I would use Red LocTite, not blue.

Doug

 

[Dazed]

It looks like you can rotate the engine and change the bolts, at least the picture looks that way? If so, the job should not be too bad.

Also, I would use Red LocTite, not blue.

Doug

Nope, those bolts are holding the bellhousing to the adapter plate. The job shouldnt be too bad (I say now with lots of hope!), just like changing a clutch, but it will take time.

 

[longbow]

Dazed,

Hey, that sucks you have to pull everything down to get to those dang bolts!

Like everyone says, just keep plugging along and pretty soon it will all be done. There is a reason that shops like Proffits charge 15k for a diesel conversion, it ain't easy! Every engine conversion that I have done has had things that pop up that I didn't forsee or things didn't line up and I had to figure out a different way to do it. Yeah, it sucks because all you want to do is get it done and get to driving that baby!
But when you get this thing all done you will have one Bada$$ diesel cruiser and you can count yourself part of a very small community of people who have the perseverance and skills to perform a diesel conversion themselves. Most people these days (Mud members excluded!) can't even change their own oil or spark plugs, let alone even think about doing an engine swap!

Keep going my man, your doing fine!

Don

 

[Dazed]

Keep going my man, your doing fine!

I appreciate the encouragement from everyone! It really helps. I think the biggest thing that I was doing wrong was pressuring myself to get to Cruise Moab. So I have changed my mindset to keep plugging away and if it happens, it happens, if not, I am still taking a week off to go somewhere awesome (I am thinking The Racetrack in Death Valley) in the truck. That changed has helped big time!

Now, onto technical bits. I got the tranny pulled and everything taken out to get to the bolts. Some good music on the stereo helped that along....and I have pulled a tranny a few too many times now so I know how to do it. I will get to put back together later this week. This also provided an opportunity to get that pin out of the way so I can use the flywheel for the tach sensor.

I did a bunch of wiring: added the sense line to the battery, added a relay for the starter activation wiring, wired up the inline fuel pump, the priming button, and the AC compressor. I did not do the glow plug relay yet as the 4BD1T doesnt need glow plugs to start so I can do that at a later date pretty easily. I also have an order into Coolerman for the oil pressure sender connectors. I also need to finish up the last few bits for the fan computer. Another thing that I started doing was labeling the wire with a label maker that I picked up so that I can more easily take care of all of this if I need to again later.

I attached the fan to the radiator and mounted it along with the intercooler. I measured what pipes I need for the intercooler; question about that at the end of this post.

The intake to the turbo is still in work. I have gotten someone in town to help me out with this as its too far over my head and he can weld aluminum.

I mounted up the bracket that has fuel filter system and the remote oil filter. For right now it works, but its a bit closer than I wanted to the AC points on the firewall. I think that those can be bent a bit to help me out some, but since I dont need AC to start, I am delaying any changes that need to be made to it.

I measured and made oil filter relocation hoses. I need to get the ones that I couldnt crimp myself to the auto parts store tomorrow morning to have them help me out.

I also picked up a used Warn 8274 in excellent condition for real cheap.

Phew, I was busy this weekend.

So some questions came up. I measured the length of intercooler piping and whatnot that I need and I checked out cxracing as per earlier in this thread, but they dont sell the length of pipe that I need (aka they sell 18" or 5" but I need 12"). Can the aluminum pipe just be cut to the length I need or do I need to maintain that lip that is one the ends?

I had another but I have forgotten already. I'm sure it will pop up again soon.

Dazed/Mitch

 

[doug720]

I cut mine to fit and used it without the lip on one end with the good bolt type band clamps. No issues.

Good attitude on the build! It will get done.

Doug

 

[Dazed]

ok, so after some time off, I am back at it.

I am reinstalling the clutch and such and I am trying to turn the engine by hand (using the big nut on the front of the engine) and it will not budge to save its life. I have removed the belts, taken out the glow plugs and made sure air can get in and out. I dont want to put an extender on the breaker bar incase I break something. I dont think anything is impeding it, but I could be wrong.

How difficult should it be to turn the engine by hand? Also, I am turning it clockwise if you are looking at the front of the engine.

 

[doug720]

If you think compression is holding from rotating, you can remove the glow plugs. It only takes a few minutes to pull them.

This will be a quick test.

Hope this helps.

Doug

 

[Dazed]

Yep, glow plugs have been removed. Still super tough.

Ideas?

 

[doug720]

Is the trans connected to the engine, or are you trying to the engine alone? If combined, something misaligned, in gear, starter gear locked on flywheel?

Bummer

Doug

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Yep, glow plugs have been removed. Still super tough.

Ideas?

Are the valves in place? Pushrods installed correctly?

You sure your motor turns clockwise? I believe my 4BT turns counter-clockwise. I know the Toyota motors all turn counter-clockwise. Try turning the motor the other way.