skyblue
SILVER Star
I want that...
Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter REZARF
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #582
Not sure if I posted this but I bought some weather proof connectors off Amazon and popped them in some corrugated loom and ran it down the windshield in the channel along the windshield trim. It was pretty easy. I'll snap a pic.
- Thread starter
- #583
My alternator gave up the ghost, so I decided to go ahead and do the 130 amp upgrade from the 2003+ models. It was a pretty straightforward swap except for the wiring of the four prong plug on the new alternator. Once you figure out where the wires go from the old harness to the new plug it’s pretty easy. My old plug dsintegrated while trying to remove it.
For what it’s worth the Denzo reman alternator was cheapest at rock auto. However, my first when I arrive damage as the plastic plug was already broken, but they have another one in short order so no complaints.
While I was already in there I decided to go ahead and start the big three upgrade. I added a 2/0 gauge cable to run from the alternator to the battery. I was able to follow the factory harness with 6 feet of cable. 2/0 is no slouch when it comes to pushing power!
Are use tin coded solid copper terminal lugs and my Harbor freight hydraulic crimper (one of my favorite tools).
I heat shrink each terminal and use the glue lined shrink wrap for a totally sealed connection. Between the cold weld of the crimper in the glue lined heat shrink I don’t envision this cable ever working it’s way loose!
Toyota made this one easy to connect as there’s a spare Bolt and nut at the terminal block on the alternator fuse at the positive battery post. I had to whittle the terminal down a little bit to get it to fit otherwise it was plug and play. I do love it when a plan comes together.
Im getting a full 14+ volts at the battery now which is rad and better then the 8+ volts I was getting a few weeks ago!
For what it’s worth the Denzo reman alternator was cheapest at rock auto. However, my first when I arrive damage as the plastic plug was already broken, but they have another one in short order so no complaints.
While I was already in there I decided to go ahead and start the big three upgrade. I added a 2/0 gauge cable to run from the alternator to the battery. I was able to follow the factory harness with 6 feet of cable. 2/0 is no slouch when it comes to pushing power!
Are use tin coded solid copper terminal lugs and my Harbor freight hydraulic crimper (one of my favorite tools).
I heat shrink each terminal and use the glue lined shrink wrap for a totally sealed connection. Between the cold weld of the crimper in the glue lined heat shrink I don’t envision this cable ever working it’s way loose!
Toyota made this one easy to connect as there’s a spare Bolt and nut at the terminal block on the alternator fuse at the positive battery post. I had to whittle the terminal down a little bit to get it to fit otherwise it was plug and play. I do love it when a plan comes together.
Im getting a full 14+ volts at the battery now which is rad and better then the 8+ volts I was getting a few weeks ago!
- Thread starter
- #584
So nice to use the drawers... makes camping so easy and tear down so quick. Easily one of the best mods.
Open for business...
Not a bad place to call “home” for a night.
Full awning deployed...
Good friends to share good times.
Open for business...
Not a bad place to call “home” for a night.
Full awning deployed...
Good friends to share good times.
Looks like all your yotas are practicing "social distancing".
- Thread starter
- #586
So I finally had everything come together to fix my windshield and rust issues. I took a meteor to the windshield last October and I had been noticing surface rust bubbling up at 4 points on the windshields edge. Well, I finally had the right combination of an installer I trust Who would let me take the Cruiser home between pulling and installing the new windshield, good enough weather to do the paint and body work myself, and the time to do it all! So I had the shop pull my glass on Friday, and then I came home and started the bodywork and de-rusting the 100. This is the only mentionable rust on the whole rig. And after owning a FJ 40 for 21 years I’m certain that only rust can kill a cruiser.
Driving home sans windshieldit’s even worse than driving an FJ 40 without the top! needgoggles to actually go over 50 miles an hour.
Here is what was lurking under the gaskets...
I had four spots like this each one roughly an inch and 1/2 x 3/4 of an inch of bubbly rust underneath the paint.
Along the top...
I feel so bad for all you Northeastern and Rust Belt Cruiserhead’s I’m convinced that rust might be my least favorite thing to deal with on a vehicle.
Driving home sans windshieldit’s even worse than driving an FJ 40 without the top! needgoggles to actually go over 50 miles an hour.
Here is what was lurking under the gaskets...
I had four spots like this each one roughly an inch and 1/2 x 3/4 of an inch of bubbly rust underneath the paint.
Along the top...
I feel so bad for all you Northeastern and Rust Belt Cruiserhead’s I’m convinced that rust might be my least favorite thing to deal with on a vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #587
So first stop was to grind out all the old rust and start to peel back the paint till I hit clean metal. Nothing like taking a die grinder to your Cruisers paint you’ve been working on for the past several years!
Drivers side a pillar upper.
lower drivers side a pillar
Next up with the clean up all the pitted rust so I used some Naval Jelly from Loctite. I’ve always heard about it but I’ve never used it, seem to work pretty good. PINK!
After I did the Naval jelly for a few rounds I hit the remaining Steele with a wire wheel on a diet grinder until I was working with clean metal.
Drivers side a pillar upper.
lower drivers side a pillar
Next up with the clean up all the pitted rust so I used some Naval Jelly from Loctite. I’ve always heard about it but I’ve never used it, seem to work pretty good. PINK!
After I did the Naval jelly for a few rounds I hit the remaining Steele with a wire wheel on a diet grinder until I was working with clean metal.
- Thread starter
- #588
Bondo. You know we all hate it! But I needed a few skim coats to level off the surface for paint. I really prefer using 3M premium filler but I couldn’t justify the cost for such a small job so I used some Bondo gold filler. It was actually decent.
This usually takes two or three times to get everything level and flat, it’s a pretty repetitive process applying removing then applying removing, you don’t feel like you’re getting too far until about the third try. This pics are after the first coat.
This usually takes two or three times to get everything level and flat, it’s a pretty repetitive process applying removing then applying removing, you don’t feel like you’re getting too far until about the third try. This pics are after the first coat.
- Thread starter
- #589
Next up is applying primer, I added it to all the bare metal surfaces under the windshield with a brush, several good coats on all the bare metal. Spray, block sand, repeat till your nice and flat with no sanding marks.
It was about this point after masking everything off that I realized spending a few hundred extra dollars for any of us 100 owners do you have your windshield installed correctly is money well spent! My installers know how hard I’m working this weekend and have promised me to do everything on their end to the best of their ability to keep any rust from coming back!
It was about this point after masking everything off that I realized spending a few hundred extra dollars for any of us 100 owners do you have your windshield installed correctly is money well spent! My installers know how hard I’m working this weekend and have promised me to do everything on their end to the best of their ability to keep any rust from coming back!
- Thread starter
- #590
Here’s a good shot of what you’re after with your primer coats, if you look closely you can feel some of the scratches have been filled in with primer. So I work with progressive grits until all the scratches are leveled and removed in all my edges are feathered in nicely with the original paint.
that’s actually primer in the ‘scratches” that gets worked out until the paint is level. I only used one guild coat to check for low spots and sanding marks and was good to go.
that’s actually primer in the ‘scratches” that gets worked out until the paint is level. I only used one guild coat to check for low spots and sanding marks and was good to go.
- Thread starter
- #591
And after a lot of hours of hard work I finally got to spray some color! I’ve used Sherwin-Williams automotive paint with great results and they’ll mix up OEM colored paint in aerosol cans for about $20/can. The pain seems really high-quality and lays down smooth so I have no complaints.
The first pass is a light coat just to start getting the paint to adhere to the primer, all in all, I did three coats of color each one a little heavier than the previous coat.
After your color and metallic flake looks nice and even, and you blend it well with the other sections it is time for clear! I used the new two-part system 2K clearcoat And it laid down like glass!
I was totally impressed with this clearcoat system this is not your Granpappys clearcoat! The solvents in it told me it’s for real and you must wear a respirator when using this product.
I’m gonna give it a full three days in the garage to flash out and begin to dry before reinstalling the windshield. Then after about a week or so I’ll blend the edges of the paint with the original and compound and polish the surfaces re they transition.
Overall this is a pretty involved project but I’m sure came from someone trying to save a buck or two on her windshield installation. My advice to any hundred series owner would be asked a lot of questions before you select your installer!
I am happy with these initial results and I’ll have a rust free cruiser again!
The first pass is a light coat just to start getting the paint to adhere to the primer, all in all, I did three coats of color each one a little heavier than the previous coat.
After your color and metallic flake looks nice and even, and you blend it well with the other sections it is time for clear! I used the new two-part system 2K clearcoat And it laid down like glass!
I was totally impressed with this clearcoat system this is not your Granpappys clearcoat! The solvents in it told me it’s for real and you must wear a respirator when using this product.
I’m gonna give it a full three days in the garage to flash out and begin to dry before reinstalling the windshield. Then after about a week or so I’ll blend the edges of the paint with the original and compound and polish the surfaces re they transition.
Overall this is a pretty involved project but I’m sure came from someone trying to save a buck or two on her windshield installation. My advice to any hundred series owner would be asked a lot of questions before you select your installer!
I am happy with these initial results and I’ll have a rust free cruiser again!
Last edited:
neilsen100
GOLD Star
I have about 12 chips in the stock windshield and one finally became a large crack this winter. I've avoided replacement due only to fear of a bad windshield install and the subsequent rust that will occur. When you say "ask a lot of questions" do you mind sharing what I should be asking and what answers we 100 owners want to hear? I've spend hours on MUD looking at his but still don't have a sense of what I'm looking for. Any help is appreciated.
- Thread starter
- #594
Thanks Matt! Great to hear from you bro! Miss running with the RS crew. I figure I have had the 40 for 21 years now... may as well do right with the 100
- Thread starter
- #595
You need an installer familiar with these rigs... or guarantees their work. Toyota uses rivets with a little liner on them that seal up the windshield trim. Most shops use small screws to hold the side trim pieces to the A-Pillars. Mine was replaced with HUGE screws so I bet I am on my 4th windshield or so, rivets from Toyota, small screws most shops use, then HUGE screws, now I had to reuse the big screws. Oh well. Ask to see if there's rust under the windshield and ask them to convert it while it is out. Safelite and others will treat like 40 sq inches of rust for you. I'd pay a bit extra for this service EVERY time the windshield is out.
Even my shop today didn't correctly install my window trim at the top so I will be back in the morning.
neilsen100
GOLD Star
Thank you Thank you.
So nothing inherently wrong with Safelite, just depends on which individual is wearing the shirt.
So nothing inherently wrong with Safelite, just depends on which individual is wearing the shirt.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Correct... Just also be aware that if you see the guy pull out a screw gun to install, you need to be willing to tell him to STOP there. They likely will argue with you but make sure to tell them it is factory way or they can send another tech. Have heard guys argue about installing the rivets, not having the "proper gun" to do it, etc. Best bet is to stand your ground on it, maybe call your local dealership to see who they use for windshield installs.
- Thread starter
- #598
Been out playing while the weather is nice and the snow is gone for a few weeks...
Tobacco Roots Mountain range.
Montanas version of the Moab on Top of The World shot.
Absorka Mountains just north of Yellowstone.
Blue Lake
Camp at 10,000’ give or take.
Tobacco Roots Mountain range.
Montanas version of the Moab on Top of The World shot.
Absorka Mountains just north of Yellowstone.
Blue Lake
Camp at 10,000’ give or take.
- Thread starter
- #599
The reason I built this cruiser, my fam! Boys have been logging some serious off-road miles this season with me. To me Cruisers are memory makers.
Lunch...
Trying to make Tacos in a hail storm at 10k feet.
brotherly love...
The swimming hole they saw on the way in and begged for two days to stop at on the way out only to freeze themselves once they got in... all Montanan streams were snow yesterday, they’re COLD!
My big boy, growing up too fast for me.
Cruisers are either a memory maker or a money pit... but they cost the same either way. Get out and beat on them to give you the memories that will far outlast the rig!
Proud father post over.
Lunch...
Trying to make Tacos in a hail storm at 10k feet.
brotherly love...
The swimming hole they saw on the way in and begged for two days to stop at on the way out only to freeze themselves once they got in... all Montanan streams were snow yesterday, they’re COLD!
My big boy, growing up too fast for me.
Cruisers are either a memory maker or a money pit... but they cost the same either way. Get out and beat on them to give you the memories that will far outlast the rig!
Proud father post over.
