40/40 Vision

[Delancy]

A years worth of accumulation, all but the correct water pump, which will now coincide with head swap.

Many thanks to @beno for the 'help' maintaining some semblance of sanity and for sourcing the obscure, or finding an equivalent thereof when NLA.

At least we're using that PhD wisely, eh?

I'm trying to come up with some creative way to use the excess black hose, both cooling and vacuum......oh, wait!! I've an idea.

Kinda after:

Fighting lower hose alignment and the voices are chanting about attempting to paint shroud, radiator mount that couldn't be today, because 195% humidity.

 

[Delancy]

Question:

Is there any way to lift this label?

Don't think heat will work, obviously, but surely someone's figured a way.

 

[Delancy]

Don't know if these are commonly needed on resmogged 40s, but if someone feels they do, lemme know and I'll send your way.

On top trash can, so about a 24 hour offer.

 

[cruisermatt]

head swap

You want to do WHAT?

 

[Delancy]

You want to do WHAT?

Have had an NOS non-US head that Jim C 'built' and mated up manifolds to at Alberto's for many months, just lacked the time to do it.

 

[cruisermatt]

I thought you were talking about a different kind of head

CYLINDER heads are perfectly accepltable around here!

 

[Delancy]

Voices won.

So that I can later substantiate claims of 'professionally restored' should need arise, documenting the intensive Cruiser parts, stripping and coating process.


First, with a little helps from Easy Off oven cleaner, strip all the grime and paint, then apply a lot of elbow grease to many SOS pads, resulting in a kinda bare metal surface.

After that, wipe down throughly with mineral spirits, allow to dry, then, in a controlled environment apply multiple costs of semi-gloss blank Krylon from a professional series applicator, aka rattle can.

Yes, I to think that's a pile of dog chit in the right of pic.

After that, allow to bake in the 105° sun for a few, then reinstall.
(Pics shortly of reinstallation. iPhone is losing pics, so deleting these as I go.)

 

[Racer65]

I need to do this. I always thought the color is black until I saw this photo of a 7400 mile truck on LCN:

 

[Delancy]

I need to do this. I always thought the color is black....

Cleans up relatively easily, at least mine did.

Probably a good clear would be prudent, though.

 

[Delancy]

Before:

(Imagine oversprayed glass pic, here)

After:

If I could muster the gumption to pull all the glass and replace weather stripping, myself, I could add $5k in restoration 'value' tonight.

Ridiculous overspray....

Is it as easy to remove and replace the glass as the YouTube videos insinuate?

(Not a real question)

 

[cruisermatt]

Slide a few sheets of printer paper under the rubber and get a small clothe with some acetone and the overspray will come off.

 

[fjc-man]

Don't know if these are commonly needed on resmogged 40s, but if someone feels they do, lemme know and I'll send your way.

View attachment 1285110

On top trash can, so about a 24 hour offer.

I'll take the t-stat housing. Just tell what the would be to 80433.

 

[Delancy]

I'll take the t-stat housing. Just tell what the would be to 80433.

Sorry, but that went out to another Mudder, already.

Did you need with the valves? Just a housing, no valves?

 

[fjc-man]

I was thinking of cleaning up your t-stat housing as a back-up part.

 

[Delancy]

Slide a few sheets of printer paper under the rubber and get a small clothe with some acetone and the overspray will come off.

Replacing all the gaskets, not because of overspray, but prudent measure considering OE'll be NLA before you know it and credence to 'restored' verbiage.

I calculate that all this little chit, like weather stripping, dash pad, all lights, emblems, mirrors, wiper arms, hood and windshield stays have added, at least, $15k in value, complimenting the 'new paint', on this nut and bolt restoration (because I do either replace nuts and bolts, or hit them with SOS pad).

Prolly looking at a $75k'er on eBay. BAHAHAHAHAHA.

 

[Delancy]

I was thinking of cleaning up your t-stat housing as a back-up part.

I may have another, minus the plastic portions of the valves. I know I did have, but finding may be arduous.

I'll look this week and, when I locate, you're more than welcome to.

 

[fjc-man]

As Tom Petty would say "thank you Sooooo much" I really do appreciate it.

 

[N919HJ]

Is there a possibility of the acetone hurting the rubber?

Slide a few sheets of printer paper under the rubber and get a small clothe with some acetone and the overspray will come off.

 

[Delancy]

First hour of 'free time' in as long as I can remember, so began tackling shock swap, having just received the Radflo's from Glenn.

Discussed for some time and opted for simple 2.0 emulsions, which the very limited 'travel' 40 suspension is suited for.

Nice stuff, as expected and in the same form as all previous.

Front DS upper pin was buggered at some point in the past, so will require a little extra effort, that I lacked the ass for, tonight. The fact the front axle is forwsrd, poses a challenge getting the spacers on, as well, so will be interesting tomorrow.

Have to sand down the pins. Any amount of accumulation on and the spacers don't want to allow penetration.

Rears are on!!

Quick drive around the 'hood and a remarkable improvement in pitch and yaw......with only still the purposeless front PS previous and no DS shock whatsoever.

Have on the Pig and it handles well, which is a phenomenal statement to make about anything 'Cruiser' to begin with.

By the way, Glenn (after 6-7 years, even):

It's Delancy.

 

[Delancy]

I'm not an arborist.

Have logged ~1,500 miles since shocks went on, with ~500lbs positioned over rear axle, and the damn springs aren't giving, a bit.

Which pulls first? The bottom?

It doesn't sound right, but can the 1 1/4-1 1/2" disparity between PS and DS be resolved by removing additional leaves from PS?

Edited for translation:

PS is higher than DS.

Can I remove more springs from PS to level?