4.88 + ARB front locker + 35"

[spressomon]

Just wanted to say...after getting 75-miles on-trail and 500-miles off-trail (ie "road") with my rig since doing the 4.88 + ARB front locker + 35" tires...the result is GREAT!!! I didn't think I would use the front locker as much as I have/do now. It seems to distribute the drive line stresses, when in those more challenging trail sections, more evenly...the whole drive train, tires included, seem to be less stressed than before on trail. The tranny shifts properly now with the 4.88 + 35" tires...and I have my low range back too...you wouldn't think 6% would be that noticable (6% higher overall gearing with 33" tires) but it is! It is quite honestly hard to say what has been my best/favorite mod, but if not my favorite its right at the top of the list and absolutely NO REGRETS!

Just an FYI for those that might be on the fence or thinking about doing this.

Dan

 

[WES1977]

pictures

 

[DirtyHarry]

It is quite honestly hard to say what has been my best/favorite mod, but if not my favorite its right at the top of the list and absolutely NO REGRETS!

You already said that the freezer/fridge and the custom recovery points were your favorite mods. I think that everything you have done to your 100 is your favorite mod!

Wes is there something specific you want photos of or just spressomon's ride in general? I have a bunch of photos of his 100 from when we got together, it is a very comfortable and capable ride and I really dug all of the "Nevada pinstriping" on a late model luxo-ute.

 

[WES1977]

overall pics with 35"s

Thinking of doing 35"'s one day.

 

[spressomon]

You already said that the freezer/fridge and the custom recovery points were your favorite mods. I think that everything you have done to your 100 is your favorite mod!

Wes is there something specific you want photos of or just spressomon's ride in general? I have a bunch of photos of his 100 from when we got together, it is a very comfortable and capable ride and I really dug all of the "Nevada pinstriping" on a late model luxo-ute.

The fridge/freeze is my favorite accessory; the FRB's are too mundane (but necessary) to be in the favorite anything (until I need to use 'em that is )

Thanks for taking the "pic" monkey off my back...your pics gotta be lightyears better than anything I have!!!

 

[DirtyHarry]

Here are a few shots of spressomon's Cruiser.

 

[DirtyHarry]

A couple more...

 

[spressomon]

Thanks Harry...can't even see all the pinstriping...good job

 

[Adam R]

What was the cost of parts for doing the rear diff. I assume you used an 80 series electric locking diff, how much do they go for? Is it a direct bolt in and plug in after setting up the gears?

Is anybody ever going to produce a rear ARB/4.88 combo for the 100 that isn't a one-off mod like Christo did?

Last question, is the rear diff on a 100 open or limited slip when not locked?

Thanks,

Adam R.

 

[wngrog]

I am thinking about doing 4.88's with just my 325's. They are only 33's but they are so damn wide and put so much drag on the drivetrain I think they would be great.

I already know I hate the TRAC system so a front locker is in the works. May as well do the gears too.......

 

[Adam R]

Bueller...Ferris Bueller are you out there?

Does anybody have the answers to the above questions?

Thanks a bunch,

Adam R

 

[spressomon]

What was the cost of parts for doing the rear diff. I assume you used an 80 series electric locking diff, how much do they go for? Is it a direct bolt in and plug in after setting up the gears?

Is anybody ever going to produce a rear ARB/4.88 combo for the 100 that isn't a one-off mod like Christo did?

Last question, is the rear diff on a 100 open or limited slip when not locked?

Thanks,

Adam R.

I haven't added up the total cost...but something like $2,800 for the 4.88's, all the bearings, seals, gaskets, 80-series carrier, front ARB locker, mini-compressor, etc., and install. I retained the OEM e-locker on the rear; you will need to have, unless you are very familiar and comfortable setting R&P up, a pro diff specialist do the install (I removed the front diff and rear 3rd and took them to the diff guy).

Not likely that anyone will make R&P's for 100 series in the near future due to the cost investment vs. return on investment potential (or lack of). I beleive most if not all the '98-'99 LC100's are factory locked rear with open. If it didn't come with the factory locker then it is more than likely LSD.

 

[Adam R]

I'm not sure I understand what it takes to turn the rear of a 100 into 4.88s.

Apparently you use the carrier of an 80, I assume an entire electric locking drop out third member.

Do you install the actuator from your 100 on the 80 third member? Why can't you use the actuator that comes on the 80.

Am I really confusing matters?

If the above is the case, what did you pay for just the rear 80 series carrier.

Thanks,

Adam R.

 

[hoser]

Last question, is the rear diff on a 100 open or limited slip when not locked?

98-99 LC's have open differentials. 98-99 LX's had the rear LSD but no locker option. Both LC and LX models 2000+ have open differentials (F&R).

 

[spressomon]

You need the 80-series carrier (~$300) to be able to install the 80-series R&P along with using the 100-series spline gears and carrier hat from the 100 (100 series are 32-spline axles and the 80-series is 30-spline axles) that install into the 100-series differential housing/pumpkin (plus the 80-series bolts that hold the ring gear to the carrier...plus bearings, etc). If you already have an OEM e-locker (do you?) on your LC then that portion remains unchanged. Otherwise if your LC is LSD (or non-elocker) then maybe the best overall would be to go ahead and install the ARB rear locker (otherwise you will need to source a 100-series e-locker and diff housing). From what I remember Christo telling me you will need to combine an ARB locker from an 80 and an ARB locker from a 100 series...and he mentioned something about needing to machine the carrier...but ask him OR Darren (ats4x4.com) for the details regarding this type of install.

 

[Adam R]

O.K. I think I get it now. I do have the e-locker in my wifes rig, I was just confused on how the e-locker works but I found some pictures on that mechanism to clear up the confusion.

Seems straight forward enough to change over. I've re-geared my jeep and Toy mini truck before. I used to believe it took special powers to do R&P work, but it just takes some attention to detail and common sense (and a couple of special tools). It's not as bad as the mechanics want you to believe it is.

Now I just need to send her away for a long weekend and see if she notices anything different when she returns. She wouldn't notice 35's and 2 inches of lift, would she?

Thanks for the info.

Adam R.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

pm sent

Sent you a pm

 

[spressomon]

FWIW: My mpg after the 4.88 and 35" install went up 1 mpg (after the first 500 miles)! Didn't expect that actually.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

AWESOME! I'm glad you're so excited! Your tires will luv you too! Just don't use that front locker so much you lose on-trail skills.

I do have some BAD news for you though:

Your recent mod you're so excited about will become your SECOND favorite mod the minute you change to N74L shocks. Blah blah from the doubters but between you and me....now that you have 35's, lockers, and a tricked rig, you MUST take it to the next level.

Adding the N74L to my 100 added FAR more capability than a front locker ever could. The tires stay planted and 3-wheeling is almost non-existent.

CHALLENGE:

DON'T WAIT! DO IT NOW! DO IT AND YOU'RE DONE FOR A WHILE! YOU WILL BE AMAZED THE BEFORE AND AFTER CHANGE. YOU KNOW YOU WANT IT!

 

[spressomon]

I am holding out for the Billy solution...front and rear!