kelly saad
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- #41
Roof has been sanded to bare metal. Epoxy primer day will happen soon on 2 vehicles.
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I have only used a sand blaster. It does a great job and it’s $8 per 50 lb bag. Soda costs much more, but I would like to invest in a nice pressure washer with a soda attachment. I spend all my $$ on tools so maybe someday it will be a big purchase.@kelly saad do you have any experience using something like powder blasting to strip paint? I've seen videos where it looks like it does a nice job but on the flip side I imagine it is a dust generating nightmare.
Haha!! Yes, there is a “boneyard” forming here at the shop of victims similar to what you describe.That lip on the lower tailgate isn’t that bad. Up here they’re usually half missing when you open them up like that.
That is a great question. I would like to use a rust proofing gun setup with different wands, but for now I use a spray can. I access the cowl through the firewall from the removable panel on the drivers side and through the wiper motor opening. Dog legs are tough but I can get in there pretty well. The quarters, and lower door skins, I soak them with POR-15 metal prep so it has zinc phosphate on the inside before I install them. So, now I can spray it with POR 15 on the inside before I undercoat. Also, I use seam sealer on every seam that is exposed. Here is what I am using for now (attached below). A wise member here on Mud showed me the light on rust proof spray cans, these are pretty sweet. It has a hose with a 360 degree fan, and has sealant, zinc phosphate and rust killer all in one. There are other brands also but I am using this for now.Just want to say you do amazing work!
I have a question for the sheet metal expert. When you perform rust repair where you can’t access the back side, like new metal in a front window channel, when you weld in the replacement metal, how do you protect the backside (Primer and Paint) to keep it from rusting after it’s welded in?