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- #41
Roof has been sanded to bare metal. Epoxy primer day will happen soon on 2 vehicles.
#4, 60 series root beer brown, body work and paint (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kelly saad
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- #42
Today. Removed the seam sealer on the lower side of the gutters, removed the A pillar gutters. The gutter on the passenger side looked perfect, but I we removed it anyway, and it was quite rusty. I will make new pieces tomorrow. Now that is all ready for sand blasting. I will blast the lower seam under the gutters all the way around the vehicle to remove the creeping rust. Also, we cleaned out the windshield channel and cut out a rust hole next to the body mount underneath the tailgate. POR 15 was applied to some unseen, bare metal areas on the fender, and I will paint the brown on the inner side of the fender before it's installed again.
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- #43
Lots happened today on 2 vehicles!! On this one, we sand blasted all the bottom gutter seams, front valance and the A pillar where the piece was removed. Blasted hatch and tailgate where I removed the old rusty lower skins. Now it's all cleaned up ready for new metal. More rust repair!! 
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- #44
Lower tailgate section I cut out. The rust blasted off nicely on the existing metal and is now fully useable.
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- #45
Gutters are complete today. I made the A pillar pieces and welded them on. The entire gutter channel was soaked in metal prep then coated in POR 15. The underneath seam on the gutters was soaked in metal prep and will be shot in POR 15 tomorrow. I started the body work on the hood and the door jambs were sanded and prepped.
Looking good!
@kelly saad do you have any experience using something like powder blasting to strip paint? I've seen videos where it looks like it does a nice job but on the flip side I imagine it is a dust generating nightmare.
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- #48
I have only used a sand blaster. It does a great job and it’s $8 per 50 lb bag. Soda costs much more, but I would like to invest in a nice pressure washer with a soda attachment. I spend all my $$ on tools so maybe someday it will be a big purchase.
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- #49
Final steps on this vehicle. This is the rear hatch patch panel.
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- #50
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- #51
Now the tailgate.
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- #52
That lip on the lower tailgate isn’t that bad. Up here they’re usually half missing when you open them up like that.
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- #54
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- #55
Haha!! Yes, there is a “boneyard” forming here at the shop of victims similar to what you describe.
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- #56
All done and swiped with fiberglass filler.
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- #57
Body work is done, seam sealer is done, epoxy primer is done.
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- #58
3 coats of 2K high build primer.
Just want to say you do amazing work!
I have a question for the sheet metal expert. When you perform rust repair where you can’t access the back side, like new metal in a front window channel, when you weld in the replacement metal, how do you protect the backside (Primer and Paint) to keep it from rusting after it’s welded in?
I have a question for the sheet metal expert. When you perform rust repair where you can’t access the back side, like new metal in a front window channel, when you weld in the replacement metal, how do you protect the backside (Primer and Paint) to keep it from rusting after it’s welded in?
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- #60
That is a great question. I would like to use a rust proofing gun setup with different wands, but for now I use a spray can. I access the cowl through the firewall from the removable panel on the drivers side and through the wiper motor opening. Dog legs are tough but I can get in there pretty well. The quarters, and lower door skins, I soak them with POR-15 metal prep so it has zinc phosphate on the inside before I install them. So, now I can spray it with POR 15 on the inside before I undercoat. Also, I use seam sealer on every seam that is exposed. Here is what I am using for now (attached below). A wise member here on Mud showed me the light on rust proof spray cans,
these are pretty sweet. It has a hose with a 360 degree fan, and has sealant, zinc phosphate and rust killer all in one. There are other brands also but I am using this for now.
