3years/75K miles, what needs replacement/maintenance???

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I will have 75K miles on the truck come this fall, it will also be three years old as well. I am planning to do front and rear brakes at that time, both rotors and pads along with another 5K mile oil change. What else would you guys suggest replacing or at least inspecting at that time?
 
I will have 75K miles on the truck come this fall, it will also be three years old as well. I am planning to do front and rear brakes at that time, both rotors and pads along with another 5K mile oil change. What else would you guys suggest replacing or at least inspecting at that time?
Maybe the transmission and transfer case fluids, depending on how you drive. But the LC is still basically new.
 
I did t-case earlier this year so that's covered. really just inquiring to see if anyone thought any other preventative maintenance might be helpful. It sounds like outside of the brakes (which are necessary at this mileage and wear) that most other stuff can wait until that 100K mark!?
 
Don’t forget diffs. I just basically do what the manual says at each milage point. At 150K I went a bit nuts and did a lot of PM replacement of components. Not all of that was necessary.
 
I’ll hit 85k this week. Bought the truck with 79k. I did diffs, t-case, and pcv valve immediately. All easy jobs. Didn’t touch brakes and coolant as both looked brand new. About to knock out transmission fluid when I find the time.

Did you do diffs when you did the tcase? ATF before 100k is a good idea. Otherwise just keep driving.
 
Don’t forget diffs. I just basically do what the manual says at each milage point. At 150K I went a bit nuts and did a lot of PM replacement of components. Not all of that was necessary.

I’ll hit 85k this week. Bought the truck with 79k. I did diffs, t-case, and pcv valve immediately. All easy jobs. Didn’t touch brakes and coolant as both looked brand new. About to knock out transmission fluid when I find the time.

Did you do diffs when you did the tcase? ATF before 100k is a good idea. Otherwise just keep driving.

Diffs and t-case were both done at 60K. I haven't touched the transmission, not sure it really needs it yet. PCV I plan to do at 100K.
 
I’d have a good look at the serpentine belt but if PCV is slated for 100 and the rest of the scheduled stuff has been addressed I wouldn’t sweat that 75k milestone much.
 
I’d have a good look at the serpentine belt but if PCV is slated for 100 and the rest of the scheduled stuff has been addressed I wouldn’t sweat that 75k milestone much.

Good call on the belt, I'll have a good look at it when I get back from Colorado. Should it warrant a change I'll order it along with the brakes.
 
I imagine you've already done it, but the engine air filter is a good item to keep tabs on.

Yea, it and the cabin air filter get checked every oil change and replaced every 10-15K miles.
 
At 125k I did most of this stuff. My observations...

V-belt idler and tensioner all still good but I replaced.
Fan support started to make noise and I replaced.
Fan clutch good and I did not replace.
Water pump and thermostat good but I replaced.
Transmission oil was still good, but it is about time to replace (had to replace the radiator so I got to sample it).
PCV valve was kind of working but not very well and had lots of deposits, so it was a bit overdue for replacement. It was the original. I replaced.
Coolant was very good, but I replaced due to radiator replacement.
Radiator recently started to show the crack line but it still had a few thousand miles to go. Truck lived in PNW all its life so that might explain the radiator longevity. I replaced it.

About the engine air filter ...
I did not replaced it. I have one of those inexpensive devices installed on the air box (K&N Filter Minder PN:85-2445), that measure and display the maximum vacuum inside the box, basically letting me know when it is time to replace the filter. I periodically blow the filter with air (opposite direction of the airflow), rotate it 180dgr, and each time I do that I reset the indicator. Every time I see a big drop on indication. At this time, the filter has more than 30% to go (it was replaced at 90k). I know they are relatively cheap. I also live in PNW and do not drive on dusty conditions or off road. I also do not drive a lot in a big city with bad air quality. So my experience is not your typical 200 owner experience.
 
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At 125k I did most of this stuff. My observations...

V-belt idler and tensioner all still good but I replaced.
Fan support started to make noise and I replaced.
Fan clutch good and I did not replace.
Water pump and thermostat good but I replaced.
Transmission oil was still good, but it is about time to replace (had to replace the radiator so I got to sample it).
PCV valve was kind of working but not very well and had lots of deposits, so it was a bit overdue for replacement. It was the original. I replaced.
Coolant was very good, but I replaced due to radiator replacement.
Radiator recently started to show the crack line but it still had a few thousand miles to go. Truck lived in PNW all its life so that might explain the radiator longevity. I replaced it.

About the engine air filter ...
I did not replaced it. I have one of those inexpensive devices installed on the air box (K&N Filter Minder PN:85-2445), that measure and display the maximum vacuum inside the box, basically letting me know when it is time to replace the filter. I periodically blow the filter with air (opposite direction of the airflow), rotate it 180dgr, and each time I do that I reset the indicator. Every time I see a big drop on indication. At this time, the filter has more than 30% to go (it was replaced at 90k). I know they are relatively cheap. I also live in PNW and do not drive on dusty conditions or off road. I also do not drive a lot in a big city with bad air quality. So my experience is not your typical 200 owner experience.
I forget where I read Toyota coolant is supposed to do 120k then 80k thereafter. It may look (and taste?) fine but some of the chemical properties for lubrication and corrosion prevention can degrade.
 
I forget where I read Toyota coolant is supposed to do 120k then 80k thereafter. It may look (and taste?) fine but some of the chemical properties for lubrication and corrosion prevention can degrade.
According to the car care nut, it is 5 years and 50k after the initial factory filled (120k). The coolant turns acidic and attacks the water pump etc. repeating from one of the videos.
 
So the suggested swap of the initial coolant is at 120K?
 
According to the car care nut, it is 5 years and 50k after the initial factory filled (120k). The coolant turns acidic and attacks the water pump etc. repeating from one of the videos.
that guys is like the name suggests...a bit nuts. I just watched his video on LC vs LX570. He missed a few things and overhypes others.
 

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