3rd gen wheels on 2nd gen 4runner

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well then when i bolted the Tacoma wheels to my 84 straight axle i should of had wheel to caliper rubbing, i did not i had tire to spring rubbing.
look your 4 and 6 cyl argument does not work when the wheels were made Toyota was producing both engines, and as for cast and machined they would do both if such wheels were put on the trucks, i already covered the fact i have Tacoma wheels on my truck the wheel never made contact with any thing, the tire did! but still your statement does not stand up the caliper on the ifs trucks is inside the wheel, now i remember where those allows rubbed on my truck, so where exactly did the calipers hit the wheel?
 
That's just me, and my opinion.


I am HARD on my trucks and I do want cast aluminum holding my rims on the hub. And I don't like the added leverage and wheel track width associated with.

The T-bar IFS is VARY strong, and VARY well made. But I just don't want the added "cam" the spacers might add to stress my front end... Not that the IFS is like a Chevy IFS, but look at the damage ppl do when they put big ol' fat tires with crazy off-set wheels on their trucks. Like I said, that's just my view and opinion. I have no factual base and don't care to get any.

I don't want a full size truck so I don't drive them... Well if your wheel track width is as wide as one, what's the difference?
hey my wheel track has not changed and i have an 86 rear, and 1 1/2 spacers on my 85 front! and even if i ran the stock wheels i would not be runing the wheel track of my suburban. you are talking like you have all ifs, it was not that long ago you posted on my ifs hub to solid axle thread, and you kept saying i do not want to increase my wheel track, come on man what the hell!
 
op i apologize for hi jacking your thread! the beat thing to do is bolt them up and try them, then please report back on how they did!
 
I believe the Taco and newer 4runner brake disc is inboard from the wheel mounting surface a lot more than the older 86-95. Which puts the caliper more inboard as well, IE Out of the way.... The newer wheels will hit the side of the caliper, not the outside of it, hence, wheel spacers.... :cheers:
 
hey my wheel track has not changed and i have an 86 rear, and 1 1/2 spacers on my 85 front! and even if i ran the stock wheels i would not be runing the wheel track of my suburban. you are talking like you have all ifs, it was not that long ago you posted on my ifs hub to solid axle thread, and you kept saying i do not want to increase my wheel track, come on man what the hell!



Boggles the mind...

Your wheel track may not have changed, but your rims sure did...

Is that the issue here? Or in the IFS hubs thread? No.

Would I get another 1.5" if I swapped my hubs to IFS, and kept my rims? Yes.


Your results vary... I'm not talking to the OP and telling him what rims will fit his IFS when I have a solid axle and COMPLETELY different rims...

In my experience, I needed spacers but not much... I had the rims pictured in post #1 but can't remember if they were the 15's or 16's. And I had a 1993 IFS 4wd 4Runner at the time. And no, they would not "bolt on".
 
...
Some rims are cast. And some are cast and machined. ...

None of the factory truck alloy wheels are typical cast construction, they all are made to the same standard. If you look at the wheel they will have JWL-T, this stands for Japan Light Alloy Wheel - Truck. If overloaded, these wheels are more prone to bend rather than crack/break like cast wheels. To get aftermarket wheels that preform the same, they will be forged or billet, $$$. This is one very good reason to run factory wheels.

...
I am HARD on my trucks and I do want cast aluminum holding my rims on the hub. ...

So, don't buy cheap, cast spacers? All of the adapter type spacers that I have seen are machined billet alloy. Very strong, as strong or stronger than the wheels.

I agree that IFS is relatively weak, so care needs to be taken with setup. If you get wheels with an inch more backspace and mount them with 1" spacers, the loads will be exactly the same. I don't see a big problem with slightly spacing the out from factory, going overboard will add significant loads.

I'm not a huge fan of spacers, but adapter type have proven very reliable, as long as the are properly installed, torqued and maintained. I wheel my junk pretty hard, weighs 5000lb and 37" tires, the spacers have never been an issue.:hillbilly:
 
Newer rims should mountup but try them to be sure. I have the first pictured 6 spoke 15" design when I bought my 3rd gen pickup and sold them to buy the 17" Tundra / Sequoia 5 stars and they mount up fine as well. No rubbing, but every truck can be different.

On the extra leverage by running spacers, I am not a huge fan, but the leverage is the same or less as running the newer rims as running 2.5" BS rims.

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The tardy update is that the 16x7 Taco wheels work just fine. Center caps pop right out, as you can see from my manual hubs. I went with some relatively small tires for the time being because the price was right.
mud runner0001.webp
 

I have a set of those FJ wheels for sale in the classified section right now. They have about 5" back space and they wouldn't clear the locking hubs on a first gen. The hole in the center was slightly too small. Not sure if the 2nd gen is the same or not. I had a set of 06 Tundra 16" factory wheels on my 97 Runner and they fit great.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/tires-wheels/533126-set-four-fj-cruiser-factory-alloys-17-a.html
 

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