Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (5 Viewers)

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Well. I am super super excited to be able to let everyone know that I think we have it! Manual has everything and is correct as far as I can tell. The other thing that is exciting, is that because the printer is authorized and getting their information from Toyota, we can also get all of the owners manuals printed as well. Small thing, but I am excited :) We are working on pricing and lead times, but they are pretty darn quick since they are done here domestically.

Would this be something interesting as a group-buy? That would help me get our pricing down and I would just pass that through to the forum, thoughts?

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Yes
 
Alright! The easiest way I can think to do a group buy is via email - if you are interested shoot me an email @ joe@ruggedoverland.com (use “IH8Mud Bundle” in subject) with your year of LC. Discount is on volume, so if we can get 30-40 orders it saves a bunch on the bundle, price varies a little by year. Thoughts?
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Thanks for the paint code! I need to order some touch-up paint.

A Wilwood Proportioning Valve allows manual adjustment of rear brake bias. It replaces the LSPV and deletes the extra line running back to the front.

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Never mind. Found the original post. Thanks.
 
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I have a 92FJ 80. What brand plugs and wires do y’all run and should I go ahead and get a distributor cap and rotor. Since I’m going to be doing the plugs. Have any of you bought anything from cruiser corp web sight?
 
Cruiser Corps have mixed reviews, I'd suggest @cruiseroutfit if you're in the states. Always use genuine or OEM parts where they're available, I've proven plenty of times that they're absolutely better than aftermarket stuff
 
I have a 92FJ 80. What brand plugs and wires do y’all run and should I go ahead and get a distributor cap and rotor. Since I’m going to be doing the plugs. Have any of you bought anything from cruiser corp web sight?
Use OEM wherever possible. May sound silly, but will save you time, money and headaches later. These rigs tend to chew up Chinese made crap. Use any of the online parts warehouses or known good vendors.
 
Can someone please help measure the thickness of the stock radiator? From core support to the back of the fan shroud?
I want to confirm if the aftermarket alum. radiator is thicker than factory unit.
My aftermarket alum. radiator is about 3 1/2" thick from back of core support to back of plastic fan shroud.


thanks,
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Update
Changed plugs and wires. The plugs were burnt. Ran for a week then wouldn’t start. I had ordered a new distributor cap and rotor button. Weird thing is it would start up sometimes but not every time. So I just changed the cap and rotor. It was corroded. My distributor it’s self has some rust inside it look at the pics.

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Can someone please help measure the thickness of the stock radiator? From core support to the back of the fan shroud?
I want to confirm if the aftermarket alum. radiator is thicker than factory unit.
My aftermarket alum. radiator is about 3 1/2" thick from back of core support to back of plastic fan shroud.


thanks,
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Hey Nobody!??????
 
1.7" thick core seems to be a bit thinner than most alum. radiators i would assume? But my measurement is from the top tank, so naturally that would suggest a bit thicker on top...
 
ok , i will go first here and post my thought on the tech question below :



- i have no idea , what is different on the 91 FJ80L-GNPNEA v/s 92 FJ80L-GNPNEA ...




Not sure, but one would assume (ha-ha) that the two would be the same with the exception of the disclaimer in the forward:

"All information in this manual is based on the latest product information at the time of publication. However, specifications and procedures are subject to change without notice."

I have the publication RM 180U- it is worth its weight in GOLD.

That being said, I bet they are both close enough to get the user the most correct information compared to a Chilton or Haynes manual.
 
Can someone please help measure the thickness of the stock radiator? From core support to the back of the fan shroud?
I want to confirm if the aftermarket alum. radiator is thicker than factory unit.
My aftermarket alum. radiator is about 3 1/2" thick from back of core support to back of plastic fan shroud.


thanks,
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@Marco Lau: My radiator measures 3-3/8" to the outermost lip of the radiator. Pic is a bit hard to read...
Let me know if I can get some other measurements.
Cheers!

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Update
Changed plugs and wires. The plugs were burnt. Ran for a week then wouldn’t start. I had ordered a new distributor cap and rotor button. Weird thing is it would start up sometimes but not every time. So I just changed the cap and rotor. It was corroded. My distributor it’s self has some rust inside it look at the pics.

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Your ignition issues are Not simply isolated to a Major Tune Up & its common parts here ....

all 3F-E Distributors have a ANTI-Moisture set-up via the 2 different size 7mm & 9mm one-way air flow vacuum hoses


in your specific case , your
Green INK ( Packing Seal ) or Tiny Spaghetti O-Ring is simply 1/2 gone , this allowed water and rain and general moisture to migrate inside and hang out for a while and do the damage of Corrasion i outline in red Ink

also , that cap and rotor are Not Genuine NipponDenso OEM parts , any ones local TOYOTA dealer parts dept. can order up all the correct stuff , ....


- one exception : i do think one of the 3F-E ignition wire sets is now NLA , i cant recall if it;s the early set or later set , the ONLY difference is the Coil to Cap wire , all 6 main cap to plug wires are same .....


ill post some current up-to date parts related info. and diagrams below .


that tiny
packing seal O-Ring is the best #1 thing to change out any time your Cap and Rotor get replaced as well ......
also making DAM sure the 1-way flow air system is ll hooked up proper and working too !
ZERO moisture = Long
19101-61240 Life !
.

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Good morning, I pulled everything apart over a month ago, now I don’t remember where the negative cable that goes to the battery gets grounded to.

Would someone point me in the right direction, please?

Edit:
Does it get screwed down with the other ground at the AC compressor bracket?
 
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Good morning, I pulled everything apart over a month ago, now I don’t remember where the negative cable gets grounded to.

Would someone point me in the right direction, please?

Edit:
Does it get screwed down with the other ground at the AC compressor bracket?
Here’s where mine is, my a/c was deleted by the po but it is on that bracket

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