3FE - Need a good view of the PS belt tensioner & AC belt tensioner

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Anyone have the part number for the top idler (small cylinder shape with a center (shiny) metal strip? Is this pulley have replaceable bearings?
 
LC4me said:
Anyone have the part number for the top idler (small cylinder shape with a center (shiny) metal strip? Is this pulley have replaceable bearings?
Click to expand...

I do not. My guess is the actual idler is a Toyota piece, may or may not be serviceable.
 
Cruiserdrew said:
Yes-sealed, high temp, high load etc. Better than what came out. The one pulley has a snap ring and is easy to change the bearing. You will need to get creative with the other. I ground off the tiny tabs with a dremmel, pressed out the bearing and then drove the cover back in and secured the cover with 3 tiny spot welds. Sounds worse than it is.

There are piles of 6301 bearings. It's a very standard size. I ended up choosing the most durable sounding ones, that can take high heat too. Changing $10 bearings was easier than swapping $35 pulleys, which are not available from Toyota any longer. THe NSKs are made in Japan, sounded like the thing at the time and I've had no issues in 6 months. Time will tell, but I could swap again in a couple of hours so I'm not worried.
Click to expand...

On mine, it is the AC belt tensioner pulley that has the little tabs that would need to be ground. So it would be the PS belt tensioner pulley that would snap ring.
 
I'm gonna throw another wrench into the works here: On my '88 it has manually adjusted tensioners for both the A/C and the power steering belts. Then the alternator itself acts as a tensioner for its belt. The A/C tensioner has a vertical adjustment bolt and rides right next to the compressor, and the power steering has a horizontal adjustment bolt and rides a little ways underneath the PS pump.
 
Spook50 said:
I'm gonna throw another wrench into the works here: On my '88 it has manually adjusted tensioners for both the A/C and the power steering belts. Then the alternator itself acts as a tensioner for its belt. The A/C tensioner has a vertical adjustment bolt and rides right next to the compressor, and the power steering has a horizontal adjustment bolt and rides a little ways underneath the PS pump.
Click to expand...

Like this - it is going to be bad news trying to tension that AC belt when I finally get space made for the compressor:

9-07-15 100.webp
 
Since we got some good pictures going here, I got some good shots as I was getting the AC compressor bracket actually onto the 3FE!

1st pic shows the reach of the tensioner with the bolt I scrounged up from Crash - should be okay?
Next pic - mount is in place - just a mock up, but so far so good.
Next, I thought I would lay out the bolts by p/n in case anyone else is ever in my predicament. Turns out I got the top bolts switched - they are different lengths - but I was not going to pull the bracket for another photo.
Then - bolts used to bolt compressor to bracket.
Compressor no fit :-( I need to re-do my PS hoses to make room. Starting to get crowded over there!

9-07-15 092.webp
9-07-15 094.webp
9-07-15 096.webp
9-07-15 097.webp
9-07-15 099.webp
 
PabloCruise said:
Like this - it is going to be bad news trying to tension that AC belt when I finally get space made for the compressor:

View attachment 1130863
Click to expand...
Nah, it's not hard at all really. You just have to reach up from below to adjust it. Only caveat is you need a couple long extensions to easily reach the bolt.
 
Spook50 said:
Nah, it's not hard at all really. You just have to reach up from below to adjust it. Only caveat is you need a couple long extensions to easily reach the bolt.
Click to expand...

And you have to access the top to lock it down, eh?
 
Spook50 said:
Nah, it's not hard at all really. You just have to reach up from below to adjust it. Only caveat is you need a couple long extensions to easily reach the bolt.
Click to expand...

Your reply makes me wonder if I am doing this wrong...
Do I need to move one of the 2 nuts up at the top of the bolt underneath the bracket so I can just adjust from the bottom? Right now in this config I feel like just trying to adjust from the bottom won't move the pulley up to put tension on the belt.
Sorry for the dumb questions, when I got the bracket the tension bolt was messed up, so maybe the nuts were in the wrong configuration?

9-07-15-092-jpg.1130842
 
You shouldn't have to move the upper nuts at all. I didn't. By turning the bolt head (on the bottom of the tensioner) you'll turn the bolt, which will move the pulley up and down in its track. The bolt holding the pulley in place is what locks the whole assembly in place, so if you don't loosen it slightly you won't be able to make it move at all.
 
Spook50 said:
You shouldn't have to move the upper nuts at all. I didn't. By turning the bolt head (on the bottom of the tensioner) you'll turn the bolt, which will move the pulley up and down in its track. The bolt holding the pulley in place is what locks the whole assembly in place, so if you don't loosen it slightly you won't be able to make it move at all.
Click to expand...

Thanks Spook! I was feeling a little slow on the understanding. I definitely picked up that I had to loosen the bolt holding the pulley, I just wasn't sure if those nuts up at the top would stay in place, or if they needed a wrench up top to keep them from rotating.
 
just put some hair on it and git er done already....
 
LAMBCRUSHER said:
just put some hair on it and git er done already....
Click to expand...

All right sir, if you could show me how your PS lines run, that would help me put some fur around it...

I don't really want to put her out of service again after I get the new tank in, but it looks like I need new PS lines to clear the compressor.
 
I'll try to post some pics tonite...too dark to snap a few right now...napa makes the lines...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom