3B Turbo Kit Build Review... Long Overdue (1 Viewer)

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I don't have a intercooler, but it's on my bucketlist. It is not necessary to work well, but it takes some "stress" from the engine and keeps the EGT a bit lower.
I have a EGT Indication (before turbo) and watch it.
With a non-regulated turbo mine is going also above 15PSI of boost, but I'm more concerned about the long-term EGT.

One downside with the retrofit: my pump doesn't have a boost-compensator, so I need to control ist with my right foot, still it's not working like a boost controler. But it works :)

injection timing can by adjusted to help keep max combustion pressures
The injection starts a bit earlier?
 
retarded, so a bit later will reduce max pressures
 
below 12 psi your heat from compressing the air isnt high enough to warrant using an intercooler, not saying it wont help but your main heat load is from the fuel, safe egt is at or below 1200f...... buuut i dont think people turbo 2b's for 'other' reasons......
 
below 12 psi your heat from compressing the air isnt high enough to warrant using an intercooler, not saying it wont help but your main heat load is from the fuel, safe egt is at or below 1200f...... buuut i dont think people turbo 2b's for 'other' reasons......
So you’re saying no need to install inter cooler if you keep it below 12psi heat compression?
And will it maintain an egr temp below 1200 Fahrenheit or maybe just lower the psi if goes above 1200?
 
So you’re saying no need to install inter cooler if you keep it below 12psi heat compression?
And will it maintain an egr temp below 1200 Fahrenheit or maybe just lower the psi if goes above 1200?
Lowering the boost will increase EGT on a diesel.
 
So you’re saying no need to install inter cooler if you keep it below 12psi heat compression?
And will it maintain an egr temp below 1200 Fahrenheit or maybe just lower the psi if goes above 1200?
exhaust gas temp (egt), is largely dependent on the amount of fuel ( diesel ) you dial in,
more boost will cool this( as you are adding more air) until a point where the heat from compressing the air in the turbo ( above 12 psi) will start to add heat to the egt as compressed air gets hotter the higher you compress it,
its a good thing to not add more heat to the combustion if you can help it
 
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Still debating if I want to turbo my 3B. You guys are saying you can get your EGTs to drop, which is nice. But i still believe that the 3B will have a shorter life if a turbo is installed…. It just wasn’t designed for it. The compression ratio is 20:1 and the 13-BT is 18: 1…. Probably for a reason.
 
Still debating if I want to turbo my 3B. You guys are saying you can get your EGTs to drop, which is nice. But i still believe that the 3B will have a shorter life if a turbo is installed…. It just wasn’t designed for it. The compression ratio is 20:1 and the 13-BT is 18: 1…. Probably for a reason.
The biggest battle with a turbo 3B is coolant temps, as with any Turbo IDI diesel. A DI diesel puts a lot less heat into the cylinder head = much less heat for the cooling system to lose.
 
You guys are saying you can get your EGTs to drop, which is nice. But i still believe that the 3B will have a shorter life if a turbo is installed…. It just wasn’t designed for it.
Hands up, I have the Merc Engine in the Bandeirante. Down here almost every engine got boosted, often without any EGT-Meters or something. Amazing to see, how much torture those engines can handle.

For the 3B that might be true, I believe, the boost itself is not the problem. High EGTs for longer periods (like 10s or more) brings a lot of stress to the engine, which doesn't have all the turbo features (piston cooling, etc.).
The cooling system is not designed to deal with the additional amount of heat which needs to be removed, etc.

The thing with those non-turbo-engines is, they miss a boost compensator. Usually, if you just add a turbo, nothing will happen. You need to crank up the fuel (adjust the injection pump) to bring more energy to the exhaust stream to drive the turbo. Then the boost will come.
But the fuel schedule within the pump is made for suction engines, and the turbo delivers less on low RPMs and more boost on high RPMs. So you will adjust the amount of fuel possible to more in the higher RPM range, where boost and amount of diesel then will fit.
At low RPMs with less/no boost, this is way too much fuel -> high EGT.

This is something you need to control with your foot using your head. The engine (depending on how much you crank up the diesel) is not save to be used by friends/wife. You will get a good feeling of how much throttle in certain regimes fits, specially if you go uphill at low/mid RPMs you need to control yourself.
 
The engine (depending on how much you crank up the diesel) is not safe to be used by friends/wife.
a truer sentance cannot be said 😆
 
Still debating if I want to turbo my 3B. You guys are saying you can get your EGTs to drop, which is nice. But i still believe that the 3B will have a shorter life if a turbo is installed…. It just wasn’t designed for it. The compression ratio is 20:1 and the 13-BT is 18: 1…. Probably for a reason.
yes, thats why you retard the injection, (peak cylinder pressure)
and ya, it runs cooler on egt for sure than N/A,
you're a sensible guy so the turbo just gives you more control of things, its all in how you dial it in and apply your foot......
but as above.... dont let other people drive it WHEN ( 😁) you turbo it, watching the egt is too much reality for some people
 
At low RPMs with less/no boost, this is way too much fuel -> high EGT.
I have not found this to be true, no smoke down low at all, it actually runs cleaner with the turbo, and egt only will get above 1200 at max prolonged throttle on the highway pushing hard
 
The biggest battle with a turbo 3B is coolant temps, as with any Turbo IDI diesel. A DI diesel puts a lot less heat into the cylinder head = much less heat for the cooling system to lose.
upgrading your fan clutch to 30000 cst fluid and getting a lower degree thermostat will help alot
i can get my coolant to 210f but not really above that,
around town 185
cruising 195
hot day pushing 210
 
Still debating if I want to turbo my 3B. You guys are saying you can get your EGTs to drop, which is nice. But i still believe that the 3B will have a shorter life if a turbo is installed…. It just wasn’t designed for it. The compression ratio is 20:1 and the 13-BT is 18: 1…. Probably for a reason.

13bt = 17.6:1
14bt = 18:1
15btfte = 17.8:1
12ht = 18.6:1

2LT/E = 20:1
1KZ = 21.2:1

1HZ = 22.4:1
3b = 20:1
14b= 18:1 from wiki, I don’t know if it’s the same as the turbo variant

1kd = 17:9


What I find interesting interesting is why Toyota used the indirect injection on the 2LT/e 1kz range? They later switched it up with the 1kd, but usually most head gasket issues come from the indirect injected models they turbo’d. Again, I’m not an expert or engine designer so I don’t know Toyotas reasons.

I’m not saying you shouldn’t turbo it, just saying as everyone does, tune it right, don’t abuse it and you should be good.
 
just to be a contrarian,
more boost ( and safe fuel levels) will cool the combustion more better,
at which point a intercooler will do even better at this, ( taking out air compression heat )
hence a safer running boosted truck

i run upwards of 20 psi full buck and with a smart fuel setting it runs very nice
boost by itself wont kill it, fuel and heat does
boost by itself isnt the main heat load, the fuel is

injection timing can by adjusted to help keep max combustion pressures in check as well:deadhorse:
smarter people than me educated me on this

You won't be at risk of melting a piston. You are however at risk of breaking a crank. The 3B is a high compression engine (because IDI). Mix in high boost and increased fuelling and that crank has a limited life. It was never designed for turbocharged loads. Single digit boost levels are pretty safe. 20psi isn't.

IDI engines don't melt pistons anyway. The flat top design makes it difficult for the piston to overheat. Instead higher EGT cracks heads on them. It is direct injection (DI) diesels which can melt pistons because they have the central bowl allowing a lot more heat transfer into the piston.

IDI engines crack heads with high EGT. DI engines melt pistons with high EGT.
 
You won't be at risk of melting a piston. You are however at risk of breaking a crank. The 3B is a high compression engine (because IDI). Mix in high boost and increased fuelling and that crank has a limited life. It was never designed for turbocharged loads. Single digit boost levels are pretty safe. 20psi isn't.

IDI engines don't melt pistons anyway. The flat top design makes it difficult for the piston to overheat. Instead higher EGT cracks heads on them. It is direct injection (DI) diesels which can melt pistons because they have the central bowl allowing a lot more heat transfer into the piston.

IDI engines crack heads with high EGT. DI engines melt pistons with high EGT.

Did we ever determine if the 3B and 13BT crank were the same? I’ve seen some people say it’s the same and other contradict that.

Obviously the DI vs IDI is the main difference.
 
Did we ever determine if the 3B and 13BT crank were the same? I’ve seen some people say it’s the same and other contradict that.

Obviously the DI vs IDI is the main difference.

Definitely not the same. 3B cranks break and 13BT don't.

They might be interchangeable, I don't know. But turbo cranks need to be both stronger steel and harder surface.
 
Definitely not the same. 3B cranks break and 13BT don't.

They might be interchangeable, I don't know. But turbo cranks need to be both stronger steel and harder surface.

how-dare-you-greta-thunberg.gif
 
I have my 3B turbo running very safe I'd say, 14psi boost with an intercooler, fuel is maxed out but it is boost compensated egt's super low only time coolant gets warm is when running a/c on a hot day. I have an external oil cooler at the front I think this helps the oil squirters do their job better.
 

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