3B overheating? Or normal temps? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

T

TysonFunk

Joined
Oct 31, 2012
Threads
54
Messages
105
Location
British Columbia
My 60 series 3B temps have been rising on long hill climbs ever since I got a shop to replace my frost plugs below my intake manifold. So far I’ve personally replaced T-stat (82deg), fan clutch, and just today I replaced the water pump but it seems like it is still persisting. I have installed a mechanical water temp gauge as well which is reading 82 degrees on the gauge around town, when I start a long hill climb, for example: out of Squamish north towards Brohm lake, my temp starts to rise to 110-115C and then cools down to about 105-95C on the flats. I didnt want to push it any further than that so I let it cool down while idling and turned around.

Are these temperatures normal? I am still a little concerned and skeptecal to drive it on hills because of this. I don’t want to assume the worst but does this sound like a sign of a head gasket failure or cracked head?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
9F99EF35-F53D-492E-B89C-D5C578625D25.jpeg
221DAFCA-1856-4AC5-9E3B-5797128163AF.jpeg
65C8E81A-B334-415F-A03F-54F249F500A0.jpeg
 
Are you talking turbo'd? Are you running water cooling through the turbo? What's your timing set to? Do you have the deflector below the rad still? Sealing up all the gaps around the radiator will improve flow through the core.
 
It is still N/A. I have never touched my timing although maybe it has slowly advanced or retarded. And come to think of it, I do not have the deflected. I removed it while painting the frame a few months back and haven’t put it back on.
 
Hey Gerg and Tyson- What is this deflector of which you speak? Not sure I have such a thing in my HJ and perhaps I should?
Thanks and sorry for the hijack...
 
I think they are talking about the radiator shroud. It gives better airflow through the radiator.

But 110-115c is not a complete disaster. At the Landrover factory they run their engines at 120c for 24 hours on the test bed. The important thing is to keep the radiator under pressure, a new radiator cap can help. You can also drop back a gear, higher revs and less load on the engine will cool things down

1554760644255.png
 
Aha. That would make sense. The word "deflector" made me think there was some winglike structure that I was missing...
 
Yes, it's forces air under the engine and not into the engine bay. Slightly negative pressure in the engine bay help rad air flow a lot. It's not going to change the world as far as overheating but it's a simple bolt on piece that will help.
 
Thanks for the offer George, but I do have that skid plate installed. And thanks everyone for the info.
I'm going out to stuff some foam between the rad shroud and the front frame though- looks like a chunk has fallen out.

For Tyson- I have a similar heating issue when on seriously steep logging roads and I've kind of accepted that an indirectly injected diesel will get pretty warm water temperatures in those conditions- especially when there's not highway speed airflow through the radiator. I can go to Whistler, Cypress or Seymour at full speed in fifth gear and never see the water temp rise much. (although the EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge can get close to the redline if I'm pounding up Cypress or the Furry Creek hill)

But taking the forest service road up as far as you can go up towards the Sea to Sky gondola from Stawamus Main, which I'd usually take in 4 low the whole way, and I'm approaching coolant redline by the time I get to the parking lot. I'm not sure what temperature that is, since I don't have a separate gauge, but time has given me a level of comfort with the stock gauge. (normal flatland running temperature is ⅓ to ½- and i start to worry when I see it around ¾, and pull over with the truck running if it's about to hit the red.) When I get to the top of the FSR climbs, I always run the truck until it cools down- shutting it off near redline water temps would likely cause a boil-over in the system.

Hope this helps! For reference, I've replaced most every part of my cooling system within the last 5 years, and it hasn't radically changed things much. If you are worried about a head gasket failure, first check to see if there is oil in your coolant or water in your oil, and if you are still worried after that, take it to a shop that can analyze your coolant for combustion products...
 
Last edited:
Hmm, that's about as bang on as you can expect from the stock marks which give you a round about idea of timing but are not a definitive indicator. If your injectors are really worn out, weak springs in them can allow them to open and inject earlier than desired which translates into an advanced timing effect but I don't know if that by itself would be enough to cause your problems or just be a contributing factor. Kind of an expensive thing to rebuild on a hunch but it's one of those things which is kind of good to check anyway regardless of overheating issues.

I'd get some weather seal trim and plug all the gaps around the radiator and shroud. Fan belt loose? What are your egts? You could be overfuelling if it's been played with.
 
Last edited:
Freewheel said:
Thanks for the offer George, but I do have that skid plate installed. And thanks everyone for the info.
I'm going out to stuff some foam between the rad shroud and the front frame though- looks like a chunk has fallen out.

For Tyson- I have a similar heating issue when on seriously steep logging roads and I've kind of accepted that an indirectly injected diesel will get pretty warm water temperatures in those conditions- especially when there's not highway speed airflow through the radiator. I can go to Whistler, Cypress or Seymour at full speed in fifth gear and never see the water temp rise much. (although the EGT (exhaust gas temp) gauge can get close to the redline if I'm pounding up Cypress or the Furry Creek hill)

But taking the forest service road up as far as you can go up towards the Sea to Sky gondola from Stawamus Main, which I'd usually take in 4 low the whole way, and I'm approaching coolant redline by the time I get to the parking lot. I'm not sure what temperature that is, since I don't have a separate gauge, but time has given me a level of comfort with the stock gauge. (normal flatland running temperature is ⅓ to ½- and i start to worry when I see it around ¾, and pull over with the truck running if it's about to hit the red.) When I get to the top of the FSR climbs, I always run the truck until it cools down- shutting it off near redline water temps would likely cause a boil-over in the system.

Hope this helps! For reference, I've replaced most every part of my cooling system within the last 5 years, and it hasn't radically changed things much. If you are worried about a head gasket failure, first check to see if there is oil in your coolant or water in your oil, and if you are still worried after that, take it to a shop that can analyze your coolant for combustion products...
Click to expand...

Oddly enough for me, the truck does fine on the logging trails and hill climbs in lower gears and lower RPMs. I have replaced nearly every part as well in my cooling system but still gets effected on those long highwayhill climbs. Everything runs normally anywhere else at high altitude, around town or highway speeds. And I make sure to always let the truck idle to cool down! Seems like there is little to no pressure in my system when I squeeze my upper/lower rad hoses when the engine is warm. I have just put on a new rad cap so i will see if that keeps pressure in the system.
 
gerg said:
Hmm, that's about as bang on as you can expect from the stock marks which give you a round about idea of timing but are not a definitive indicator. If your injectors are really worn out, weak springs in them can allow them to open and inject earlier than desired which translates into an advanced timing effect but I don't know if that by itself would be enough to cause your problems or just be a contributing factor. Kind of an expensive thing to rebuild on a hunch but it's one of those things which is kind of good to check anyway regardless of overheating issues.

I'd get some weather seal trim and plug all the gaps around the radiator and shroud. Fan belt loose? What are your egts? You could be overfuelling if it's been played with.
Click to expand...

I have replaced nearly everything else in the cooling system on a hunch, and still no progress. The optimistic side of me says "At least those parts are less likely to fail now" :p The truck is still N/A although I was planning to turbo soon. Now I am a little hesitant to do so because of the fear of adding the extra heat. Although maybe it would do it good because it seems to only overheat when the engine is working really really hard, hauling itself up long highway hills.
 
I chased overheating problems with my N/A 3B/BJ73 for quite a while. As it turned out one of the major contributors was a nic in the surface the radiator cap is meant to seal on. The system wasn't holding pressure. I've replaced or upgraded every part in the cooling system except for the fan blade itself.

I run a 2H fan hub (has much more drive than my original hub) and a HDJ79 radiator. Even on a hot day in the sand dunes or towing it never gets above the thermostat temperature of 82°c. I don't have that deflector fitted, it doesn't fit with the HDJ79 radiator.

I'd be really cautious about getting a 3b that hot given how they like to crack heads.
 
I had that happening to me too. Long hills and my 3B would heat up quite a bit. Normal on the flats etc.

So I found I had my coolant too strong. I drained out a bunch and diluted it with water, brought it back down to a more realistic mix. Not -60 rated lol.

It actually handled the temps and cooled much better. My overheating did not re-occur. But in a natural aspirated engine you can expect it to raise on a hill climb, your exhaust gas temp will be quite high.

Don't lug it in a higher gear, down shift and don't put your foot right to the floor, let it slow down. A 3B with no turbo on coastal mountains will not be quick. VW busses may pass on the hills.
 
TysonFunk said:
Seems like there is little to no pressure in my system when I squeeze my upper/lower rad hoses when the engine is warm.
Click to expand...


This is a big factor in keeping an engine cool. The pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant. No pressure means big steam bubbles around the cylinder bores which means there is less surface area covered by coolant which in turn raises the coolant temperature even more.
I would also go through every hose clamp and re tighten or replace.
 
you can get a pressure tester for a coolant system too. You take off the cap and install a cap with a pump, pressure it up and see if holds. Sometimes leaks are visible, sometimes they go poof on hot stuff and you cannot see them.

On one truck I used to drive it made a sweet gross smell when it got too hot. So it must have had a little leak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Diesel Wannabe
3B Overheating - help needed!
Replies
17
Views
2K
-MaTTi-
-MaTTi-
KIWIALEX
>>SOLVED<< Is this a 3B or a 3BII
Replies
6
Views
1K
Greek Cruiserhead
Greek Cruiserhead
J
3B oil leak
Replies
9
Views
793
sodafeld1
S
Ambrew
3b oil pan availability?
Replies
1
Views
310
bj70bc
bj70bc

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom