3B / 13BT motor mounts

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the 13bt and 3b and 2b should all be the same I have used all 3 in the past on my 13bt. the problem is unless the engine raises or twists after torque the mount can hid its failure. due to that metal cap. the ones you picked up look like an improvement on visibility. post if they deteriorate early.
 

They look the same, at a higher price.

Well these Cruiserparts mounts look better than what I got from an Aussi eBay supplier (although they haven't let me down yet).

Here's what I bought on eBay:
EngineMounts2.webp
(And they also have the design fault pointed out above that tends to prevent them clamping the metal chassis-bracket properly.)

And here's what Cruiserparts show at Baxter's link:

CruiserpartsMounts.webp
(These looks like OEM to me with much beefier steel. And if they're not OEM, Cruiserparts shouldn't be showing them with genuine Toyota packaging as the background!)

:cheers:
EngineMounts2.webp


CruiserpartsMounts.webp
 
maybe ill be the first ! im playing with the idea to use Mercedes om603 hydrolic mounts to replace my 280.000 km 1988 Original ones;)

DO IT!

And post up some part numbers while your at it!
 
I got a set of the anchor hydraulic mounts in the mail today, they were alot cheaper then I thought through rock auto, and they look pretty good.

It'll be quite a while before my 3B is fired up again, but I'll try and remember to post up as to how it works.

BTW, anyone know what the steel pins are for off the bushings? Im thinking about cutting them off.
 
Hi guys, I just looked into my mounts on my 89 BJ 74, I have noticed the vibration has gotten far worse than when I put this on the road, I cant see any physical dammage but with a pry bar I can move one side easily, the other side hardly at all? I tried haveing some on torque the engine ( brake and power at same time ) the engine seems to twist up more on the side I could move easily. Would that be a clear indication I have a bad mount? My mounts are the model with the steel boxes on each side, so dificult to see the shape of teh rubber. The stell boxes are almost toching, ~ 1/8" gap on one side, and 1/2" on the other Also, to replace I assume we just lift the engine a few inches? nothing else neeeds to be undone?
 
You mean the pins that locate the mounts in the correct position?

Have a look see...

IMG_5833_zps0e0f8bfa.jpg


Hi guys, I just looked into my mounts on my 89 BJ 74, I have noticed the vibration has gotten far worse than when I put this on the road, I cant see any physical dammage but with a pry bar I can move one side easily, the other side hardly at all? I tried haveing some on torque the engine ( brake and power at same time ) the engine seems to twist up more on the side I could move easily. Would that be a clear indication I have a bad mount? My mounts are the model with the steel boxes on each side, so dificult to see the shape of teh rubber. The stell boxes are almost toching, ~ 1/8" gap on one side, and 1/2" on the other Also, to replace I assume we just lift the engine a few inches? nothing else neeeds to be undone?



It sounds like one mount has come apart, you just need to pry it up enough to get the new mount it, maybe check your t-case isolator at the same time.
 
I think the pins simply prevent torque from acting on the rubber whenever you're tightening or loosening the securing nuts.

So if you're threads are clean (and the nuts turn easily), then I think cutting the pins off wouldn't cause any harm (because then none of that torque could be transmitted into the rubber).

But "best engineering practice" would call for the pins and mating holes because over time the surface of a thread tends to deteriorate.

That's my take anyway Cody

:beer:

PS. And I like to use nyloc nuts for that sort of application and the use of those certainly makes keeping the pins more desirable
 
I think the pins simply prevent torque from acting on the rubber whenever you're tightening or loosening the securing nuts.

So if you're threads are clean (and the nuts turn easily), then I think cutting the pins off wouldn't cause any harm (because then none of that torque could be transmitted into the rubber).

But "best engineering practice" would call for the pins and mating holes because over time the surface of a thread tends to deteriorate.

That's my take anyway Cody

:beer:

PS. And I like to use nyloc nuts for that sort of application and the use of those certainly makes keeping the pins more desirable

Makes sense, I was planning on re-using the 3B mounts, sand blasting and welding them onto the hilux frame, but if you look at the picture you can see that the factory holes are quite large, probably to allow for some misalignment of the engine. I think the holes should be smaller or slots for the new mounts, so i will probably make new motor mounts instead when i try and fit the engine.

I have a feeling the anchor mounts are gonna quiet things up a bit, but as you can see they are much thicker then factory mounts, so they likely wouldnt fit as an upgrade in an unmodified cruiser.
 
I don't have a 3b, but installed an Isuzu 4BD2 in my 60. In regards to using the Ford V6 engine mounts with a diesel, most designers of items like this are trying to deal with a engine weight and vibration range that is somewhat narrow.

Does a 3b weight about the same as the V6? The Isuzu 4BD2 weigh's about 50 pounds more than the 2f with 2 fewer cylinders.
Most gas engines weight substantially less than diesels.

The vibration will be different, with the diesel shacking a lot more. Torque loads may be about the same overall, but I'm not sure of that.

I would think finding a diesel motor mount would be the best plan.

Doug
 

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