It sounds like I would be better off trying to mount 35s on a stock LX570?
34's on stock setup - it's done, now some advice...
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It sounds like I would be better off trying to mount 35s on a stock LX570?
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- #62
If you're trying for a true 34, then yes if you go to 35s you'll likely get about a 34.3-34.5 when mounted, depending on the tire.
Otoh, as slee noted the 35x12.5 rubs like mad everywhere, even with the lx at +2" hi position.
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Markuson
SILVER Star
Slee didn't run it with a stock front bumper though. He's had the ARB Sahara on it for at least two years.
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- #64
Sorry I realize autocorrect changes "rubs like mad" to "runs like mad".
Agreed @Markuson my point is that 35s are a lot of effort to get working cleanly.
Personally I'm still on the fence with 34s. Drove around town and some highway miles this weekend and I'm confident the running is gone for day to day driving. But @Reckless, that requires a lot of trimming up front of the inner liner plus some light "reshaping" of the front bumper, mud flap removal, and, at least with my wheel offset, some trimming/reshaping/mangling of the area under the mud flap and plastic liner. And I haven't had a chance to test articulation to see if it scrubs the front fender under compression (based on kreiten's experience I *should* barely clear, though I'm concerned that heavy compression while in a tight turn will hit the fender). How much surgery are you willing to do to your truck?
While I haven't done it, given my experience I have to believe to get 35s to work on an LX without a bumper you'd need to keep AHC in +2" HI all the time, trim a ton more inner liner, and replace the UCAs with one that can push your caster further positive. This all assume +50 or +60 offset - if you run lower offset then the extra 1" of width in a 35 (which translates to 1/2" on either side of the wheel) will likely scrub the fender.
Sane people should run 33s. Insane people can get 34s working. And lunatics run 35s.
Agreed @Markuson my point is that 35s are a lot of effort to get working cleanly.
Personally I'm still on the fence with 34s. Drove around town and some highway miles this weekend and I'm confident the running is gone for day to day driving. But @Reckless, that requires a lot of trimming up front of the inner liner plus some light "reshaping" of the front bumper, mud flap removal, and, at least with my wheel offset, some trimming/reshaping/mangling of the area under the mud flap and plastic liner. And I haven't had a chance to test articulation to see if it scrubs the front fender under compression (based on kreiten's experience I *should* barely clear, though I'm concerned that heavy compression while in a tight turn will hit the fender). How much surgery are you willing to do to your truck?
While I haven't done it, given my experience I have to believe to get 35s to work on an LX without a bumper you'd need to keep AHC in +2" HI all the time, trim a ton more inner liner, and replace the UCAs with one that can push your caster further positive. This all assume +50 or +60 offset - if you run lower offset then the extra 1" of width in a 35 (which translates to 1/2" on either side of the wheel) will likely scrub the fender.
Sane people should run 33s. Insane people can get 34s working. And lunatics run 35s.
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- #66
I'm just glad there are lunatics out there like you, @Markuson, @sleeoffroad, @MScruiser, etc pushing the envelope - because if you guys can get 35s (or 37s!) then I'm confident that my simply insane setup is doable :-D
I think this really hits the nail on the head. With each step being that much more work and that much more aggressive.
My Falken ATW3s (33.2x12.4spec) fit with relatively minor massaging and able to keep full liner and flaps is a sane compromise, with the balance to still handle well and tow large loads. I say this is just about the largest size one wants to go unless committed to more aggressive tailoring and mods. Still love the rigs that push the boundaries though including yours.
In regards to lift, I maintain that it's not a strategy for clearance. When under articulation, there needs to be full clearance throughout the suspension stroke.
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- #68
@TeCKis300, are your Falkens 33.2" measured height or is that what the manufacturer claims?
My desire to lift would be to reduce the likelihood of contact, particularly when turning and under heavy articulation. I realize all the lift is doing is buying ground clearance in exchange for reduced wheel travel.
My desire to lift would be to reduce the likelihood of contact, particularly when turning and under heavy articulation. I realize all the lift is doing is buying ground clearance in exchange for reduced wheel travel.
33.2 is spec (compared to your 33.8) spec. Mine is on ~34mm offset which is an easier fit.
Slightly off topic but spec numbers are the most useful comparison numbers as it's apples to apples - Tire Size vs. True Size
Totally get going bigger and no one needs to justify why. It's what floats your boat. Just discussing various considerations, such that the next guy can decide what's best for themselves, all considered.
Slightly off topic but spec numbers are the most useful comparison numbers as it's apples to apples - Tire Size vs. True Size
Totally get going bigger and no one needs to justify why. It's what floats your boat. Just discussing various considerations, such that the next guy can decide what's best for themselves, all considered.
I put 285/70/17 ridge grapplers and rock warriors on my 08 lx570 recently. It rubs in reverse at full lock at normal height. Removed the front mudflaps which helped a bit, but it is still rubbing. I put about 500 miles in the mountains on them over the last couple weeks and they seem fine except in reverse. It does seem like a really tight fit I can't imagine going any larger without a lot of trimming.
I didn't really want to run the spacers since my truck will spend more time offroad and I want to prevent undue wear. Not sure if the spacers would help or not.
I didn't really want to run the spacers since my truck will spend more time offroad and I want to prevent undue wear. Not sure if the spacers would help or not.
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- #71
If it rubs in reverse it rubs going forward too, it's just that the angle of the plastic or tire lugs isn't making it as noticeable.
Unscrew the mud flaps and I bet it'll stop. Spacers won't stop the rubbing
Unscrew the mud flaps and I bet it'll stop. Spacers won't stop the rubbing
Markuson
SILVER Star
Wheel spacers dramatically increase the arc/sweep and make clearing mud flaps and wheel skirting harder...
May be a really stupid question (I'm not proud), but what's the difference between putting on spacers and using a wheel with an equal offset? Seems the impact to the arc and/or wear and tear on the front end would be exactly the same.
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- #74
In terms of suspension, body clearance, and tire arc... none. Wear and tear should be similar.
The reason to use spacers is if the offset of the wheel you have isn't what you want to achieve. I went with a lower offset wheel in order to avoid needing to use spacers, since wheel spacers add some complexity and risk to your setup as you're basically bolting your wheel to the spacer and the spacer to the lugs.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Basically the same. I could have made a similar comment re wheel offset. With the most common spacer for the 200 being a 1.25"...it's a significant change in arc. I mention it only because some forget that while it may help with sway bar or UCA contact, sometimes more potentially damagingg contact can happen due to sweep.
I happily ran spacers with 285/70/17s on RW, but definitely had to remove them with 35's.
Speaking of spacers I have some that were custom (centric) ordered (Front 20mm / Rear 10mm) in the mail. I took my front wheels off the truck the other day and stacked washers (home depot 1/2" - AKA the hole- lol) on each lug and re-fit the wheels to try and gauge just how much more clearance I could achieve without any negative tradeoffs. or as @Markuson mentions the sweep of the arc. The MM's listed above are the conclusions I came to for my rig and ordered. Hope I'm right and it works out. I'm trying to eliminate rub all together on my KDSS. I currently have almost a full 1" difference from my front to rear track width due to my lift and what not - IFS track width shrinks when lifted. Something fun to try and look at when you have down time. Reason for my post is the common spidertrax (?) spacers that are 1 1/2" are not the only choice available out there for a solution if that's what you seek. Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech
@RS6tofj80 turned me on to this company. Good luck man
@RS6tofj80 turned me on to this company. Good luck man
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- #77
Ok, opinion time. I rolled the front of the truck up onto the curb, and then stacked every trailer leveling block I had on top of that. I should have measured, but the front right tire is probably ~18" off the ground.
Front right:
Rear right:
Rear left:
Rear left, close up shot:
Front right:
Rear right:
Rear left:
Rear left, close up shot:
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- #78
And here's the front right again. Unfortunately I didn't get a good shot of what I presume is the bump stop in the compressed photo :-(
Clearance to fender when compressed:
Clearance to fender when uncompressed:
Suspension compressed:
Suspension uncompressed:
Clearance to fender when compressed:
Clearance to fender when uncompressed:
Suspension compressed:
Suspension uncompressed:
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- #79
Ok so given these, I'd like some opinions as to how likely I am to run into trouble with this setup in Breck? Given my finger thickness, riding up on blocks it looks like I was only able to really compress the front suspension by ~2". But given the articulation in the rear, that seems low to me.
Edit: Tires are at 38psi. Not sure if airing down would affect the size dramatically.
Edit: Tires are at 38psi. Not sure if airing down would affect the size dramatically.
Markuson
SILVER Star
The danger is not low speed rock wheeling. The danger is (for example) a higher-speed HIT while flying over a desert road...where either a large bump or hole it hit. At speed, your wheel will be driven with momentum into the OEM or other bump-stops and can then compress well beyond what was shown on the blocks at zero speed.
