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It's not rubbing on the frame, but it's close. However I don't think it will run there since parked on the ground with the wheel nearly locked right seems to be the "worst case" for how far back the tire goes, and the suspension geometry is fixed relative to the frame (unlike the body, which moves independently of the frame and is why I was rubbing when in motion and turning but yet had about an inch of clearance while parked and turning).A lift isn't going to change rubbing on the frame with the wheels turned - only backspacing or spacers will. I saw the updated pics of your trimming and it looks good, but I'd also trim the front bumper horizontally up a few inches for extra clearance when the suspension cycles. Not sure how far you can go up and keep the factory fog lights, but if you want to keep them I'd trim to the highest point you can without hitting the housing.
I think you are doing the right thing by testing the size you will eventually want to move to, especially while on stick height. A lift doesn't buy you clearance, it just buys you time till you run your tire into the truck. Unless you are extending the bumpstops (and timbren bumps don't do that), being on stock height is a great why to already test what will eventually be some amount of compression. So carry on brother!It's not rubbing on the frame, but it's close. However I don't think it will run there since parked on the ground with the wheel nearly locked right seems to be the "worst case" for how far back the tire goes, and the suspension geometry is fixed relative to the frame (unlike the body, which moves independently of the frame and is why I was rubbing when in motion and turning but yet had about an inch of clearance while parked and turning).
Other than the bottom corner of the bumper I don't think the front will run under normal driving now. It might rub the front top of the liner under full compression and turning - I still need to figure out how to test the articulation. Mud flap area seems to clear now but that's the sketchiest spot under normal driving, probably due to the wheel offset (which I went with to avoid uca and kdss clearance issues in the future).
This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.
One thing I'd like is to actually maintain a slight rake even after lifting, so that I have to compensate less when towing. @TonyP, I thought I read in your build thread that tough dog added about 2" up front but less in the rear?
The Ironman front struts are adjustable. They use a threaded collar, so you can raise or lower the spring perches to compress or relax the spring.
The spanner wrench you need to adjust them is not included in the kit and I don't know where you can buy them. They're very easy to adjust while off the vehicle, but it's pretty tough once installed.
Where did you get your Tough Dog setup?
One thing I'd like is to actually maintain a slight rake even after lifting, so that I have to compensate less when towing. @TonyP, I thought I read in your build thread that tough dog added about 2" up front but less in the rear?
That's a very nice offer. Wish I was going with you guys. I'm heading to Silverton Saturday with some friends in our local TLCA chapter.I was talking about compression adjustments. I got mine from Trail Tailor (@reevesci).
Unloaded it's slightly raked but in my full camp setup it's fairly flat. Mind you I have heavy springs in the rear too. I towed one of my BMWs last week, not sure of the tongue weight (it was a good bit) but there was no rake then.
If you're going to Breck you can try my 200 out.
Tires are a big expense, get the size you want now and only pay once.
Slee is running 35s on stock height. Granted, he has an aftermarket bumper up front, but it looks like you've already cut away most of the lower wheel well liner in that area anyway.
If you are going to install a lift "eventually" go ahead and get the SPC upper arms. They are adjustable, which will allow you to move the wheel a little front to rear or other way around to get the clearance evened up.
"Stock height" on the Slee, though, is on a height adjustable LX570 with ARB Sahara bar up front, and Slee rear...plus a lot of cutting and shifting of material. Also, Slee is now running Icon wheels which I think are somewhere around +40 offset. Not sure the exact number...
I think you are doing the right thing by testing the size you will eventually want to move to, especially while on stick height. A lift doesn't buy you clearance, it just buys you time till you run your tire into the truck. Unless you are extending the bumpstops (and timbren bumps don't do that), being on stock height is a great why to already test what will eventually be some amount of compression. So carry on brother!
This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.
I think you are doing the right thing by testing the size you will eventually want to move to, especially while on stick height. A lift doesn't buy you clearance, it just buys you time till you run your tire into the truck. Unless you are extending the bumpstops (and timbren bumps don't do that), being on stock height is a great why to already test what will eventually be some amount of compression. So carry on brother!
This is also probably a good time to talk about suspension, namely ironman suspension. Here is a very new review from Andrew White, a man who has tested more suspensions than all of us and all of the vendors in this forum combined. And for what's it's worth, which isn't much, I completely agree with everything he says, starting at 12:40.
But yes without a lift the tire comes very close to the frame on the right front side when the wheel is turned right, and still comes to the mud flap area.
It's not rubbing on the frame, but it's close. However I don't think it will run there since parked on the ground with the wheel nearly locked right seems to be the "worst case" for how far back the tire goes, and the suspension geometry is fixed relative to the frame (unlike the body, which moves independently of the frame and is why I was rubbing when in motion and turning but yet had about an inch of clearance while parked and turning).
yah good point I didn't hear him mention what springs he was running on the Ironman CFP kit?!? I run the performance springs which are their softer springs.I was very interested in going with ironman, until I saw this video recently. I wonder if the springs he had were too stiff?
I was looking at this kit 200 Series Land Cruiser Performance Kit with Foam Cell Pro Shocks
or this Dobinsons kit Amazon.com: Dobinsons 2.0" Lift Kit Toyota Land Cruiser 200 Series 2007-2016 Medium Load Front and Rear: Automotive