Wrench
One Bashed Up 80
There is always one hater floating in the pool like a turd
Hey now that's a little harsh. I'm not a hater I just have a difference of opinion.
3 Link Questions
- Thread starter VCCruzr
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Hey now that's a little harsh. I'm not a hater I just have a difference of opinion.
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I don't think wrench is a hater. I just think he is cocky because he hasn't found his limits yet. And usually won't until he rolls it. All those that know better will just shake their head in the mean time. The simple fact is you have to have the suspension needed to traverse the most hardest of terrains and lines chosen. That rig, There is hardly any travel both front and rear. Due to restricted binding in the front. And short stiff coils in the rear. AND big restrictive tires. Sway bars are probably left on aswell.
There's simply no comparison to a well set up rig, that allows the suspension to actually do its job.
There's simply no comparison to a well set up rig, that allows the suspension to actually do its job.
wrench rolled his truck years ago.
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Well in that case then. I have no idea why.
^^^ That's comedy right?
What ever... And your contribution to this thread is???? Just as I thought...
See, that's good advice.
And I agree about lifted floppy rigs. Theres way too many around. But correcting and addressing everything propperly. And its all as tight as factory. So the question is, what's the best way to increase front travel 3/4/5/x/ etc etc.
Fact,,, for you maybe? That is not my primary goal, totally depends on use. I run aggressive trails, some a long distance away, so for my use it's about the compromise. I need a good, comfortable to drive, long distance highway rig that also does the trails that I like to do. If I was only looking for a hardcore wheeler, it wouldn't be an '80, there are much better choices, lighter, smaller, less body work, etc.
Mine is built for great onroad handling, without Offroad compromise. Not just Offroad.
You know this how? When you were wheeling his rig, in New England, were there any trails/obstacles that you couldn't complete?
Because every time someone makes bold statements saying their rig can go anywhere, they nearly roll trying to prove their point. Without travel... Anyone who knows better will say the same.
Why would big tires be restrictive? If properly inflated, big tires have more give/flex, than small tires, etc.
You will have to serious extend bumpstops to stop that size tyre from rubbing. Less lift = less travel downwards (under force), shorter shocks etc etc
So?I have run mine with and without sway bars and greatly prefer with. Even in trail conditions, it can be unstable with them off. Mine will fully flex the allowed travel with them on, so no advantage to removing them.
Again, you haven't addresses the issues at hand. All you've done is remove it/ didn't like it/ put it back on. Sway bar seriously restrict travel.
Agree, the suspension needs to be setup to work well for the type of use that the owner prefers. When I was new to the '80, had lots of ideas, plans of changing suspension, etc. After lots of seat/trail time in the rig, those plans/mods have greatly changed and am glad that I got to know the rig before making drastic changes that I would now regret.
And that's fine, solong as your happy. But don't go knocking things people with more experience say, without trying it for yourself first.
^^^^^
Well, No... actually the questions are listed below. I've seen one or two posts that actually try to answer them without debate and prejudice
1. How far forward can I move my axle without lengthening the driveshaft?
2. If I move the axle forward, will the top spring perch have to move as well to keep it plumb so the springs function properly?
3. Is it even necessary to move the axle forward when doing a 3 link? Note: this rig is a rock toy.
I expect I am gonna hear to wait until coilovers are in the budget, re-tube the driveshaft, and move it forward a few inches.
Nobody cares.
This thread is about 3-link suspension design on 80-series Land Crusiers. If you two want to squabble, do it elsewhere.
This thread is about 3-link suspension design on 80-series Land Crusiers. If you two want to squabble, do it elsewhere.
Well, No... actually the questions are listed below. I've seen one or two posts that actually try to answer them without debate and prejudice
Fair enough.
1. 20mm, but you should always space the DS to keep it in spec on the slip joint.
2. It depends on lift. At 5" it puts it back to where it should be (20mm) so coil is vert like stock.
3. No it's not. But if your planning on running 35's or bigger. Move it forward to allow clearance.
Douglas S said:
^^^^^yes this let's keep it tech guys, everyone has their own opinion on what's best.
Depends on lots of things, using stock axle perch, caster angle, arm length, etc. It is a custom build, so best is to put the axle where you want it and move everything to fit. There isn't going to be a recipe for custom.
Perches, should always dissect the axle no matter if its coil overs or standard springs.
Caster, has absolutely nothing to do with pushing the diff forward or not.
Arm length, is what he would use to push the diff forward.
Axle to upper coil perch should always remain vert for optimal performance. Along with flatter geometry.
It all depends on your needs/wants/use. For a full on rock toy I would seriously consider a lighter/smaller platform, the '80 is a heavy pig. A smaller/lighter rig will always school it in the rocks (gravity is tough to fight) and be much easier on parts.
If you make your roll axis the same height as your body weight line. There will be NO body roll.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #77
I am glad this thread got back on track. We can always learn from a good debate/argument and differences in opinion as long as things don't get personal.
I got back from New Years getaway yesterday afternoon and started the prep work
for this 3 link. I pulled the radius arms, front panhard bar, and driveshaft, then ground the welds on my caster plates and cleanly removed them (for sale in the classifieds). Next, I will cut off the frame and axle radius arm brackets, then grind in prep for the new mounts.
So for now, the plan is to move the axle forward about an inch using longer lower links to get things back into spec. I also intend to mount the upper link tower to the top of the diff to get maximum link separation at the axle for leverage against axle wrap. Just going to tack everything in place to begin with in case adjustment is needed. I will check for binding before the finish welds. Let the surgery begin......
I got back from New Years getaway yesterday afternoon and started the prep work
for this 3 link. I pulled the radius arms, front panhard bar, and driveshaft, then ground the welds on my caster plates and cleanly removed them (for sale in the classifieds). Next, I will cut off the frame and axle radius arm brackets, then grind in prep for the new mounts.
So for now, the plan is to move the axle forward about an inch using longer lower links to get things back into spec. I also intend to mount the upper link tower to the top of the diff to get maximum link separation at the axle for leverage against axle wrap. Just going to tack everything in place to begin with in case adjustment is needed. I will check for binding before the finish welds. Let the surgery begin......
Do you have any plans to address the steering linkage with the new set up?
- Thread starter
- #79
Will eventually go with a Hi-steer, probably using the Hellfire Fab Works Knuckles, when the budget allows. Then hdryo-assist, coilovers, etc..........40's, one tons, and trailer to transport it, ......
- Thread starter
- #80
More Questions
Borrowing these diagrams from another thread to help answer more questions.
Looking at most of the 3 link pictures that have been posted, most drive shaft/pinion angles look like the first diagram. Do I need to aim for a set-up like the angle shown in the second diagram? Is the first or second diagram showing factory spec caster? (first says factory)
Thanks,
Derrick
Borrowing these diagrams from another thread to help answer more questions.
Looking at most of the 3 link pictures that have been posted, most drive shaft/pinion angles look like the first diagram. Do I need to aim for a set-up like the angle shown in the second diagram? Is the first or second diagram showing factory spec caster? (first says factory)
Thanks,
Derrick
