3" lift or lower, and 37's or bigger?

[GW Nugget]

FWIW, More articulation turns the tyre in more. I run 15x11 neg 44, with 35x12.5. 3.5" back spacing (from memory) and have no flare/wheel well/chassi binding issues on both sides of the rear. I realise this would be much harder to do on a us spec with appossing panhards.

@TheBigBoy Will you elaborate on your set up. From what I see here... you have 15" x 11" wide wheels w/3.5" BS (didn't get what neg 44 means) w/35" x 12.5" tyers. 5" flexi coils, flipped control arms. Is this your rig here? If so it has amazing articulation. I have read somewhere else you have 14" Fox Shocks, correct? For where you wheel maxed out uptravel stuffed 35s would be ideal. And how does US spec appossing panhards hender articulation? For me... (while sitting in rig)... my front left drops better while my right rear drops better, not by much though. It's good to know your good side for Posssser pictures.... Just Saying. Your better sides would be FR & RR. Is my thinking wrong??? How is that better?

 

[GW Nugget]

@TheBigBoy are you there?

I've read this thread like 10 times... lots of good info.

If I recall correctly ROOBY is a perfect example of a 3" lift & 37s. Check out the official 37 & up thread. @AutoCraft Aus Darren has been to the US many times & would know both types of terrain & set up to use here & down under. Also after a lot of reading US & AU spec rigs seem to be a bit different in lift & ride height. That's why we get the stinkbug here & add the front spacer. Again I'm the student hear, I'm just stating my observation & findings.

 

[Hinterland]

Is anyone running this combo? Impressions? Issues?

Pictures would be highly appreciated.

I'm running OME J's with 1/2" spacer in front and 315's. Really happy with how it works. Also have both sway bar drop brackets, lowered rear bump stops, adjustable rear upper control arms and adjustable rear panhard bar, extended brake lines, and all rear wiring and cableing etc. dropped with custom fabbed brackets to allow for full droop on shop lift so real world wheeling will not break them. Rears rub inner walls of fender well on cargo area at full stuff but very minimally. Wheels like a champ. Seems to be a good balance between lift and tires without over stressing any components.

 

[GW Nugget]

I'm going to bump this thread again.
I can't stress enough of how much good info is in here how to run 37s.
Items of topic:
Belly height
Bump stop spacing
Shock up travel
Wheel back spacing
Fender trimming
It's all in there....

 

[GW Nugget]

3" or less of suspension lift would suck...
this is why most go with a 4" lift.

To achieve 37"s on a 3" or less suspension lift would require bumpstoping to the point of almost zero uptravel without cutting.

One has to cut fenders to allow 37"s to move upward to the stock bumpstops if you stay with a 3" or less lift.

The most basic lift to reference is the good ole 850J/863 (a 3.5" lift) & even with 35"s one needs 2" bumpstops front & rear which only gives 3" to 3.5" of uptravel.

The only other option is to move the bumpstops under the body via a body lift. This will allow one to reduce the amount of bumpstoping allow more uptravel. This would put the rig taller than 3" of lift though.

The goal I hear is a 40/60 ratio on shocks. Meanin a 10" shock should have 4" up & 6" of downtravel. My OME 850 equivalent lift is a true 2.5" lift plus my 1" body lift, (3.5" lift) which gives my "L" shocks 4.5" of uptravel with stock bumpstops. I had to add a 1.5" bumstop pucks to stop my 37"s from hitting the fenders. I will cut my fenders so I can go back to just stock bumpstops. Does this make sence?