Build 3 days and 3300 miles later
- Thread starter buckroseau
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- #822
How long do you wait between coats of 1) primers?, 2) body color?, 3)drying time of any paints before sanding?
Thanks.[/QUOTE]
1. Usually 24 hours, or at least overnight, before I sand ureathane primer. And then I shoot a couple coats again right away if I am going to sand again.
2. Body color, I don't sand base, but you wait about 10 minutes between coats when you spray. Usually 2 to 3 coats of base.
3. After I shoot the clear, I usually wait 18 to 24 hours before I sand the clear with 1500 grit, and buff it right after that. The clear starts to get really hard if you wait to long and is tough to sand.
Hope this answers your questions?
Thanks, Matt
Hey Matt, where you ever able to find the part numbers for JC Witney rubber for the LV's?
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- #825
Got about 1.5 on the lpb tonight.
Nothing special, just shot a good couple coats of DP50LF on the box. Also shot a couple coats of DP48LF on my neighbors 40 ford doors.
Primer will be dry tomorrow, hoping to get back to the doors and stuff in the next day or so.
Matt
Nothing special, just shot a good couple coats of DP50LF on the box. Also shot a couple coats of DP48LF on my neighbors 40 ford doors.
Primer will be dry tomorrow, hoping to get back to the doors and stuff in the next day or so.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #826
last 1
Tech Question: Do you use an english wheel at all for your fab work when needed?
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- #828
No, never have.
My neighbor got one for x-mas a few years ago and I have played around with that one a little bit. From the little I have used it it seems like it would take some practice to get used to that.....maybe years to really get good at it. He has never used it either.
Matt
- Thread starter
- #829
About 8.5 hours on the lpb today, nothing special and not a lot of pics.
Pretty much sanded all day. Blocked pretty much everything out to 150 except for the roof cap. That I got blocked out to 220, then I ran a bead of SEM's self leveling seam sealer around the drip edge. Then I wet sanded out to 400...should be ready for base/clear anytime I'm ready which should be in a day or so.
The other stuff got another coat of ureathane primer, more block sanding tomorrow. If all goes well should be able to block everything out to 220 tomorrow and then it's ready for paint. If not, more primer and more sanding.
Got a little side tracked this week on another project. Didn't take a lot of time, but lost a couple days because I spent a little time working on that. Actually should be pretty cool and I will post up a few pics in a week or so....
Matt
Pretty much sanded all day. Blocked pretty much everything out to 150 except for the roof cap. That I got blocked out to 220, then I ran a bead of SEM's self leveling seam sealer around the drip edge. Then I wet sanded out to 400...should be ready for base/clear anytime I'm ready which should be in a day or so.
The other stuff got another coat of ureathane primer, more block sanding tomorrow. If all goes well should be able to block everything out to 220 tomorrow and then it's ready for paint. If not, more primer and more sanding.
Got a little side tracked this week on another project. Didn't take a lot of time, but lost a couple days because I spent a little time working on that. Actually should be pretty cool and I will post up a few pics in a week or so....
Matt
Can you give us some detail pics of the the drip edge and the SEM etc.
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grinding out welds
This may well have been brought up earlier in the thread, so forgive my laziness in not re-reading the whole works again...
My question: after welding is done you are grinding the welds out smooth. What grinding wheel(s) have you found to work well for this?
Thanks - really enjoying this thread!
This may well have been brought up earlier in the thread, so forgive my laziness in not re-reading the whole works again...
My question: after welding is done you are grinding the welds out smooth. What grinding wheel(s) have you found to work well for this?
Thanks - really enjoying this thread!
- Thread starter
- #833
Got about 9 hours on the lpb today. Nothing special, but moving ahead.
The majority of the day was spent sanding. Got everything blocked out to 220. The rear cab and hood are as good as there going to get, they look pretty decent. I plan on shooting 1 light coat of epoxy prior to shooting base. The doors need 1 more coat of ureathane, they were close....but 1 more and they will be perfect. So those got a couple coats on the outside and will have to be blocked out again tomorrow or Tuesday.
Managed to get the roof cap painted. I actually shot a coat of DP48LF (white epoxy primer) first. Let that dry for about an hour and shot a couple coats of base, same base I used on the lv...had a lot left in the can so figure I better use it up. 2 coats of DCU2021 clear after that. Turned out pretty nice, couple runs towards the bottom so I will be sanding and buffing tomorrow night, but shouldn't take more than an hour. It's about -20 below zero right now and when the fan is running it cools down the booth in a hurry, hard to keep warm while painting when it's that cold.
Couple other pics for Membersfield. I think 1 of them is high build self leveling and the other is the regular seam sealer. I used the regular stuff on the bottom of the roof cap where that piece is spot welded to it. Figure it wouldn't hurt to keep a little moisture out of that area. The self leveling is just what it says, you run it a trough and in a few minutes it levels itself out...works pretty good. The other one is a pic of the gun you need to apply it.
Matt
The majority of the day was spent sanding. Got everything blocked out to 220. The rear cab and hood are as good as there going to get, they look pretty decent. I plan on shooting 1 light coat of epoxy prior to shooting base. The doors need 1 more coat of ureathane, they were close....but 1 more and they will be perfect. So those got a couple coats on the outside and will have to be blocked out again tomorrow or Tuesday.
Managed to get the roof cap painted. I actually shot a coat of DP48LF (white epoxy primer) first. Let that dry for about an hour and shot a couple coats of base, same base I used on the lv...had a lot left in the can so figure I better use it up. 2 coats of DCU2021 clear after that. Turned out pretty nice, couple runs towards the bottom so I will be sanding and buffing tomorrow night, but shouldn't take more than an hour. It's about -20 below zero right now and when the fan is running it cools down the booth in a hurry, hard to keep warm while painting when it's that cold.
Couple other pics for Membersfield. I think 1 of them is high build self leveling and the other is the regular seam sealer. I used the regular stuff on the bottom of the roof cap where that piece is spot welded to it. Figure it wouldn't hurt to keep a little moisture out of that area. The self leveling is just what it says, you run it a trough and in a few minutes it levels itself out...works pretty good. The other one is a pic of the gun you need to apply it.
Matt
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- #834
more
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- #835
more 2
looks great Matt!!! I to am interested in more detailed pics of the seam sealer....
can you give us a hint on the new project.. dont think I can wait for two weeks... but I can say you never sease to amaze me! so I can only imagine!
can you give us a hint on the new project.. dont think I can wait for two weeks... but I can say you never sease to amaze me! so I can only imagine!
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- #837
last 1
- Thread starter
- #838
I like using an abrasive flap disc, usually a 36 grit, made by Vortec. It works extremelly well for grinding down spot welds and finishes it at the same time. I'll see if I can round up a pic, I know I took one for someone else on my LV thread.
Matt
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- #839
Hi,
Not to hijack the previous post but. On your fitting the 255-85-16 tires, did you use an extended shackels? if so, did you have to shims the axles?
Thanks AllenV
I bought a shackle that was 1" longer than stock, so that would give me an aprox. 1/2" of lift in the shackle. You didn't ask but I will say it anyway, the rear springs are stock and the front springs are new with a 2.5" lift.
Not sure if I will have to shim the axles yet? I will wait to see how it drives first, but I'm thinkin I won't have to.
Matt
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- #840
I might be applying some more seam sealer tomorrow night or Tuesday. I will try to take some detailed pics on how to apply it and make a nice bead.
On the other project I don't want to say anything or post any pics yet. Don't have a lot to post yet anyway. Got about 5 hours in on it the this last week. Planning to head up to my autobody friends place next weekend and knock out the majority of it in 1 weekend. It was kinda a short notice deal, but a fun little side project. I don't want to put a ton of time into it, but it should be pretty cool when I'm done. I should have pics in exactly 1 week.....hopefully....
Matt