3.0 engine pull- with or without transmission? (2 Viewers)

[ColoradoBoy]

HI, all-
Been over on the 80 series forum, but looking for some help over here. I have an 89 pickup that needs a new motor. Getting ready to pull (never done a pull on the 3.0 before), but am looking for input as to easier/harder to keep the transmission attached & pull them both or detach and pull the motor. I do have a copy of the FSM, but sometimes other peoples tips and tricks can be real time savers. I know... 3.4 swap was REALLY tempting, but I really didn't want to get into that much money/time/learning curve to do so. I have a rebuilt 3.0 on order from Yota1 Performance, so please limit replies to the issue at hand.

Thank you in advance for those willing to let me know their 3.0 pulling experience.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

OK, made a couple of SST guide bolts (1/2" steel rod, cut 12mm threads to match transmission bolts) Threaded them in to help guide the transmission into place. It appears that no matter how I go about it, the transmission input shaft/spline has not engaged the splines and pilot bearing yet. I have approx. 2" gap between the motor and trans. Everything seems to be lined up pretty well, just no engagement.

The question is this- Will the transmission shaft fit into the pilot bearing before the splines mesh, or am I trying to get the splines to mesh first? I feel with this info, I can better gauge how to get these seated again.

EDIT: I have rotated the crankshaft, but no dice yet. I'm guessing that I just have not "hit the hole" yet to get things together. I'll keep at it...

Thanks, and Cheers!

 

[aztoyman]

I'm assuming you used a clutch alignment tool. That matters for sure.

The gap has to be even. Rotate the crank, wiggle the trans being careful to ensure you don't damage anything.

Sometimes I will raise or lower the rear of the engine to get the best angle.

Sometimes it goes easy and sometimes it kicks your a$$.

You should be able to pull it in with the bolts once you get close but DO NOT FORCE IT. It should pull in fairly easily. If the bolts take a lot to turn something is wrong. Back them off and find out why.

The splines have to go through the clutch disc before it goes into the pilot bearing. If you held the alignment tool as you tightened the clutch bolts it should be aligned. If you let it kind of sag, it might be off causing your problem.

Good luck

 

[gnob]

make sure the trans/case are in gear

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I'm assuming you used a clutch alignment tool. That matters for sure.

The gap has to be even. Rotate the crank, wiggle the trans being careful to ensure you don't damage anything.

Sometimes I will raise or lower the rear of the engine to get the best angle.

Sometimes it goes easy and sometimes it kicks your a$$.

You should be able to pull it in with the bolts once you get close but DO NOT FORCE IT. It should pull in fairly easily. If the bolts take a lot to turn something is wrong. Back them off and find out why.

The splines have to go through the clutch disc before it goes into the pilot bearing. If you held the alignment tool as you tightened the clutch bolts it should be aligned. If you let it kind of sag, it might be off causing your problem.

Good luck

Saweeeeet!!!

Got it to go- guess I'm just impatient tonight. I did use the clutch alignment tool when installing the clutch. Just needed to keep going- small adjustments to the crank, the alignment bolts, and putting some hard shoving/wiggling and height adjustments did the trick. Now that I have done it, I get it. Heck, I almost feel like a real mechanic...
Thanks for the encouragement and tips!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

make sure the trans/case are in gear

Good point- I got lucky with that one.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I'm beginning to suspect that I installed the clutch plate backwards... (?) Seems like I would have done it right; motor was out of the truck, pulled the old one off & put the new one one immediately. Still no clutch actuation, and I have 'bled' about a quart of fluid thru the clutch. I'm demoting myself to a one mechanic trying to work above his pay grade!

 

[aztoyman]

How do you think "good" mechanics got good? By learning from their mistakes. Plenty of them, in addition to getting it right most of the time. Don't give up and don't get in a hurry if you get frustrated.

What do you mean by no clutch actuation? It should be engaged all the time unless you step on the pedal to release it.

 

[pappy]

When I first installed the clutch disk in my FJ40 it was backwards. Ugh. Dropping the tranny/TC to flip it was a royal PITA. It does happen to the best of us.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

How do you think "good" mechanics got good? By learning from their mistakes. Plenty of them, in addition to getting it right most of the time. Don't give up and don't get in a hurry if you get frustrated.

What do you mean by no clutch actuation? It should be engaged all the time unless you step on the pedal to release it.

By no actuation, I mean that no pressure is being released in order to shift into gear. The clutch 'throw' as I feel it is not springing back strong enough (as though the springs on the clutch disk aren't being utilized) after the pedal is pressed to the floor on it's return to the top. Fluid is purged, the throw of the slave cylinder is fully extended when the clutch is pressed down, but no ability to shift into any gears (just grinding).

 

[ColoradoBoy]

When I first installed the clutch disk in my FJ40 it was backwards. Ugh. Dropping the tranny/TC to flip it was a royal PITA. It does happen to the best of us.

Yeah, this will be pull transmission for a second time! At least I have practice now... And threaded alignment rods for re-attachment!!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

OK- back to moving!! Transmission pulled, clutch plate reversed, re-install, bleed, TEST CLUTCH, button up drivetrain,


I sooo needed this win!

Thanks to the gang here on MUD once again.

 

[aztoyman]

Right on! Glad you got'r done. You're no quitter.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Right on! Glad you got'r done. You're no quitter.

I appreciate that. Was feeling pretty low the last couple of weeks. Now I have to move the 80 out of the front of the barn (with no fuel injectors) to get the truck out; and pull the 80 into the barn up an incline. Should be an interesting task, moving that tank with no running motor- maybe rig up a come-along. Refurbished injectors for the 80 supposed to arrive on Tuesday. I must be a glutton for punishment; this summer seems to have been mostly me with my head under the hood of one of these two rigs. It will be good to get things wrapped up!

 

[aztoyman]

Have some wheel chocks ready and don't get hurt. I've pushed some of my trucks by putting some sort of cushion between the two and just creeping it in low range.

I've used plywood pieces with towels or cushions, big boxes, you name it. If it works and nothing gets damaged, who cares what it looks like. I've even used a big bar under a tire to roll my truck a little at a time and kicked a wheel chock forward as I went. Good luck.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Got it all (well, never DONE, right?) but 80 Series back on the road, as well as the truck.
Just for the archives:

1989 Pickup - 3.slow engine replacement
190,500 miles- back on the road!
191,250 miles- oil change; drain break in oil and filter, Mobil 1 20w40 Full Synthetic

New:
clutch & components
full drivetrain oil change(s)
test, clean and refurbished fuel injectors
starter
A/C compressor
replaced vac hoses as required
Distributor o-rings, cap, rotor, wires, plugs
Rebuilt P/S pump
powdercoat for front bumper

 

[ColoradoBoy]

... and the next phase begins.