3.0 engine pull- with or without transmission? (1 Viewer)

[ColoradoBoy]

HI, all-
Been over on the 80 series forum, but looking for some help over here. I have an 89 pickup that needs a new motor. Getting ready to pull (never done a pull on the 3.0 before), but am looking for input as to easier/harder to keep the transmission attached & pull them both or detach and pull the motor. I do have a copy of the FSM, but sometimes other peoples tips and tricks can be real time savers. I know... 3.4 swap was REALLY tempting, but I really didn't want to get into that much money/time/learning curve to do so. I have a rebuilt 3.0 on order from Yota1 Performance, so please limit replies to the issue at hand.

Thank you in advance for those willing to let me know their 3.0 pulling experience.

 

[Curt]

I would try to take the motor out on its own. If your have troubles getting them separated i would then consider taking them out together.

 

[vipergrhd]

Should be an easy swap nothing that I ran into when I pulled my 3.0 from a 4Runner unless all your bolts are rusted then that could be an issue.

 

[pappy]

I would try to take the motor out on its own.

This. There really isn't much room to pull them together. It's not like a Land Cruiser where you can remove the core support.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Cool- thank you both. Thought I once heard of the top two bellhousing-to-block bolts were an extra special contortion exercise?
Rust won't be an issue, thank goodness!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

This. There really isn't much room to pull them together. It's not like a Land Cruiser where you can remove the core support.

Ahhh! I just figured the front supports would have been built the same, given the years. Thank you.

 

[pappy]

Cool- thank you both. Thought I once heard of the top two bellhousing-to-block bolts were an extra special contortion exercise?
Rust won't be an issue, thank goodness!

A really long extension will get those bolts.

 

[Gumby]

Drop the trans crossmember and lower the back of the trans on a floor jack. Then come at the top bolts with a couple of long extensions and a swivel. If you have a universal adapter I usually wrap some tape around it to keep it from flopping around.

When putting them back a piece of paper or paper towel between the bolt and the socket keeps the bolts from falling out as you thread the extension up there.

you'll lose some torque through all those extensions so use a long handled ratchet.

 

[yotadude520]

Why not a 3.4 swap?

 

[Gumby]

It is the best option

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I thought about a 3.4, but decided I would rather not do the apples-to-oranges thing. I know it has been a while, but I have the new motor (YOTA 1 Performance) sitting in the barn/shop- just need some warmer weather to get my motivation going! I got most of the engine bay disconnected, and am ready to begin separating the engine from transmission... I'll try to keep posting on this; thank you all again for the feedback.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Got some stuff done this weekend...

The pull really wasn't the PITA I was expecting. Went pretty smooth.
Can no longer find a 20 gal parts washer locally, going old-school with large tubs, scrub brushes, and Purple Power. Plenty of gloves on hand. The cleaning and swapping begins!

Found a thread YOTATECH.COM about swapping in a 7mge AFM for the 3.slow; Any extra air that I can feed the motor up here between 7-10k elevation has got to be a help. I might see if I can round one up and try it out on my 4R first...

 

[vipergrhd]

What is wrong with the motor you pulled? I still have a 3.0 in my truck and currently doing a head gasket slow leak in #6 cylinder. @ColoradoBoy

Was it still running when you bought it?

 

[ColoradoBoy]

Long story short:

Purchased as a "Garage Queen" a few years back. (102k)
Hit a deer at O-Dark-Thirty one morning at the top of a pass on my way to work.
Went rounds with the insurance company for 7 months before reaching an agreement.
Most money went to Body & Paint- I did all mechanical repairs from the water pump, timing belts, front seals, radiator...
Two years later, leaks starting from all over.
Decided to start again with a fresh motor so I won't have to ever do it again on this truck.

The day I bought it

The carnage...

Out from Paint...

As she sits now:

Cheers!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

So I'm cleaning brackets and parts to move to the new motor. I would like to rattle can paint (for ease of application) for looks and for ease of cleaning down the road. Some paint brands are better than others; what have people used that have had good results? VHT seems popular and well stocked locally. Any suggestions?
Cheers!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

New clutch pack arrived today. Cleaned more parts, ordering more bits and pieces...

 

[ColoradoBoy]

More stuff for the truck this morning- o-rings for distributor, cap & rotor, plugs and wires, fuel filter. Did more cleaning of parts and nuts/bolts... Tested cold start injector time switch last night- need new one. Explains the hard to start issue in the middle of cold winter mornings. Added to the list for the next order.

Back to the shop!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

I guess this is kind of turning into my engine swap thread...

I'm going a little overboard, but having fun. Painted the air intake black.

 

[ColoradoBoy]

impatiently waiting for my injectors to come back from Witchhunter performance... Should be soon. I miss my truck!

 

[ColoradoBoy]

So... New motor delivered from Yota1 Performance this past October. I now have the old valve covers cleaned up & ready to install, given the rebuilt motor does not have the correct covers with breathers. Here is my question: Could the valve cover gaskets installed at the shop, and now sitting installed for 8 months be OK to re-use? Or, being installed and crushed without any use is still a no-go? Not necessarily wanting to cheap out, but with all of the other sensors and parts being pushed into this motor change-out, I'm trying to stem the $$ flow out the door. If I'm taking a chance on gasket leaks, then re-use is an obvious NO.

A little feedback from the experts, please?

Cheers!