OK, short story long.
I wanted to replace leaking 2uz VVTI cam seals, they were making a mess. I got the parts, watched the video, and thumbed through the FSM. I DID NOT want to replace the water pump and all the goodies because it had already been done 40k ago (documented). And yes I should have waited until another 50k to even touch the bloody thing.
Tore into the motor PS first, and done and done, oh crap I forgot to push in the seal between steps 7 & 8. Undone, done, and redone. I was tired and figured ok only a few more hours. Started the DS, done and that's weird the intake came riding high and won't seat. A little torque per the FSM 12 ftlbs, still nothing. Pulled it out and laid it on the bench, came back and I now had the new and unimproved 2 piece intake camshaft (crap).
Spent some time teetering between new ($400) and used (super scarce), found a guy, and ordered a set of the used ones.
Shipped late, and finally arrived. I started the re-install, finished the reinstall, and then the moment of truth, crank it! Well, the good news was that the motor runs smoothly, the bad news is I have an early Land Rover Series II diesel knock.
GXOR said ohh you should've measured the valve to cam spacing, and you'll surely need to order valve spacers. Ok, a trip to harbor freight for feeler gauges and a micrometer. Measured the valve spacing and they are ALL within spec.
NOW, working backwards in my mind I only touched a few items that would cause such a noise.
1. the motor ran fine, with no noise other than the valvetrain which is faint on the 2uz, and I can still hear it under the diesel tapping.
2. the 2uz is an interference motor and it would be impossible to get a cam cycle out of sequence because it's 2 turns of the crank to 1 turn of the cam. meaning the cams cannot be advanced far without the engine needing to be turned to help make space.
3. all pulleys and bearings are tight and smooth.
Now my only valid theories are these, I used and reused the timing belt tensioner. It is not leaking and it is FIRM when using the benchvise to compress and reinsert the grenade pin. I did randomly notice the timing belt tensioner pulley seems to go in and out of phase with the tensioner removed and hand turning the engine. What I mean is that with the tensioner removed it is loose and floppy one portion of the belt cycle and then when I turn the crankshaft it gets tight and won't budge, this may be wholly unrelated, but worth mentioning as the noise it makes when I push on it rapidly sounds like the same clacking I here.
So the question is what am I missing, Is there another component I am not accounting for in my search for the cure? The noise is definitely drivetrain and not valve train Faster Noise not slower.
I wanted to replace leaking 2uz VVTI cam seals, they were making a mess. I got the parts, watched the video, and thumbed through the FSM. I DID NOT want to replace the water pump and all the goodies because it had already been done 40k ago (documented). And yes I should have waited until another 50k to even touch the bloody thing.
Tore into the motor PS first, and done and done, oh crap I forgot to push in the seal between steps 7 & 8. Undone, done, and redone. I was tired and figured ok only a few more hours. Started the DS, done and that's weird the intake came riding high and won't seat. A little torque per the FSM 12 ftlbs, still nothing. Pulled it out and laid it on the bench, came back and I now had the new and unimproved 2 piece intake camshaft (crap).
Spent some time teetering between new ($400) and used (super scarce), found a guy, and ordered a set of the used ones.
Shipped late, and finally arrived. I started the re-install, finished the reinstall, and then the moment of truth, crank it! Well, the good news was that the motor runs smoothly, the bad news is I have an early Land Rover Series II diesel knock.
GXOR said ohh you should've measured the valve to cam spacing, and you'll surely need to order valve spacers. Ok, a trip to harbor freight for feeler gauges and a micrometer. Measured the valve spacing and they are ALL within spec.
NOW, working backwards in my mind I only touched a few items that would cause such a noise.
1. the motor ran fine, with no noise other than the valvetrain which is faint on the 2uz, and I can still hear it under the diesel tapping.
2. the 2uz is an interference motor and it would be impossible to get a cam cycle out of sequence because it's 2 turns of the crank to 1 turn of the cam. meaning the cams cannot be advanced far without the engine needing to be turned to help make space.
3. all pulleys and bearings are tight and smooth.
Now my only valid theories are these, I used and reused the timing belt tensioner. It is not leaking and it is FIRM when using the benchvise to compress and reinsert the grenade pin. I did randomly notice the timing belt tensioner pulley seems to go in and out of phase with the tensioner removed and hand turning the engine. What I mean is that with the tensioner removed it is loose and floppy one portion of the belt cycle and then when I turn the crankshaft it gets tight and won't budge, this may be wholly unrelated, but worth mentioning as the noise it makes when I push on it rapidly sounds like the same clacking I here.
So the question is what am I missing, Is there another component I am not accounting for in my search for the cure? The noise is definitely drivetrain and not valve train Faster Noise not slower.
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