I will get back to you on that. By the end of February, I should have the drivetrain installed for the last time. For the the fuel pressure regulator, I plan on using the factory 2uzvvti one.
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I will get back to you on that. By the end of February, I should have the drivetrain installed for the last time. For the the fuel pressure regulator, I plan on using the factory 2uzvvti one.
Right but there is a vac line that runs to the intake tube post MAF that you will have to connect. My current main tube is AL. Just going to drill and braze on a couple nipples when I finalize the lay out.
Oh this where the 100 tcase shifter lines up when you shift everthing forward about 5 5/16 ish inches. This is with the 100 series A343f 4spd, I have a FJ80 91-92 Tcase lever on here. Shifts just a bout 3/4 of an inch to the pass side.
Do you have a picture of the vacuum line in question? Im trying to picture it in my head.
Zjohnsonua
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- #64
Moving it all forward that far is getting close to the diff at full stuff. How much room do you have between the housing and the oil pan?
That’s just about the absolute minimum distance you have to move it to clear the firewall on then pass side. My truck is sitting on 75mm slinky heavies so I have a pretty good pan to axle clearance.
Zjohnsonua
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How much clearance did you have when you set it on the bumpstops?
New bumpstop are on the list of stuff for after this part gets done I still need to put 1” extensions (IIRC) just for the springs I have. haven’t pulled the springs to check actual clearance It will be. Close at full flex for sure, i suspect the 1in ones I planed on useing and addressing that before the 1st trip that might put me a spot to flex beyond normal driving. Thanks for pointing it out though.
Zjohnsonua
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Highly recommend pulling the springs before you go much further. The driveline fits and clears a stock truck at full bump with a bit to spare. No need in limiting suspension travel unnecessarily. Builder's call at this point.
Zjohnsonua
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Received some questions related to cooling system components.
Shroud: we make them as needed. Do yourself a favor and add a provision to remove the upper portion to let the fan be installed and removed more easily.
Fan and lower rad hose: you've got options depending on where your battery is. If the battery is on the passenger side, the 20" LC/LX fan works. This fan stands proud of the mounting hub by about 2", and has more clearance to the lower radiator hose. You can run a Sequoia lower radiator hose with 2" cut out of the center straight section. If you have a driver side battery the 20" fan is about 3/4" from the battery box. This is enough to run, but the fan shroud will be very close to the box when you leave the desired fan tip clearance (think rattles and such). The 4R/Tundra/Sequoia fan (16361-50080...not the other one - the other one sits deeper and looks to require a water neck change) is 19" and centers on the mounting plate, leaving it ~1" further back. These two shifts clear the battery box considerably, but they'll require you to use a section of an upper rad hose with the lower sequoia portion. This combination lets you have a longer upper leg to rotate the center length clear of the fan. Or, grab the hoses listed in my build thread. Both work, they're just different routings. The ones in my thread leave a LOT of room to the fan.
Heater hoses: if youre not running the rear heater, these PNs are most likely what youre looking for Gates 28467, 19025, 19168. 28467 is a 90 with longer legs - it pretty much works as is, 19168 has a compound bend needed to tie into the lower heater port - cut the unnecessary long portion off and it pops on, and 19025 is a short legged 90 to tie into the upper port. There are multiple 5/8" 90s out there to handle 19025's role.
A few pics to see what I mean:
Shroud: we make them as needed. Do yourself a favor and add a provision to remove the upper portion to let the fan be installed and removed more easily.
Fan and lower rad hose: you've got options depending on where your battery is. If the battery is on the passenger side, the 20" LC/LX fan works. This fan stands proud of the mounting hub by about 2", and has more clearance to the lower radiator hose. You can run a Sequoia lower radiator hose with 2" cut out of the center straight section. If you have a driver side battery the 20" fan is about 3/4" from the battery box. This is enough to run, but the fan shroud will be very close to the box when you leave the desired fan tip clearance (think rattles and such). The 4R/Tundra/Sequoia fan (16361-50080...not the other one - the other one sits deeper and looks to require a water neck change) is 19" and centers on the mounting plate, leaving it ~1" further back. These two shifts clear the battery box considerably, but they'll require you to use a section of an upper rad hose with the lower sequoia portion. This combination lets you have a longer upper leg to rotate the center length clear of the fan. Or, grab the hoses listed in my build thread. Both work, they're just different routings. The ones in my thread leave a LOT of room to the fan.
Heater hoses: if youre not running the rear heater, these PNs are most likely what youre looking for Gates 28467, 19025, 19168. 28467 is a 90 with longer legs - it pretty much works as is, 19168 has a compound bend needed to tie into the lower heater port - cut the unnecessary long portion off and it pops on, and 19025 is a short legged 90 to tie into the upper port. There are multiple 5/8" 90s out there to handle 19025's role.
A few pics to see what I mean:
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I posted this in my build thread but cross post it here too.
Dayco numbers: Upper hose 70306. Lower hose 71538. Lower hose is the right length without using a coupler. Needs one end on the hose trimmed. Factory hose for a LS430
Dayco numbers: Upper hose 70306. Lower hose 71538. Lower hose is the right length without using a coupler. Needs one end on the hose trimmed. Factory hose for a LS430
Zjohnsonua
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- Thread starter
- #72
The wider 80 rad definitely helps
Talking about Rads... I'll toss this piece of information....
If you have an FZ Radiator, you can run a Mitsubishi Outlander 2003-2006 2.4L Radiator Electric Fans. A little trimming & tabs, and this Radiator Fan falls right into a 1FZ Radiator. It is a perfect fit....
I am running a DORMAN 620365 with a Universal Fan Controller (got the one from RockAuto, easy setup)
A little trimming and here is the fan is inserted in the 1FZ Rad. I was surprised at the fitment... You run it upside down, cut the tabs, and it falls right into place. A little silicon on the corners and its a sealed assembly.
Plenty of room for activities...
This was my original setup. I had a mechanical fan/shroud. I can't fab for chit but my chity shroud worked awesome on my SAS trip...
During the same trip my 3FE Rad blew-up and I made the switch to the 1FZ rad and decided to try the Electric Fans vs trying to build a new shroud..
I have ran these Electric Fans for almost a year with almost no issue. I did have one relay get stuck closed and I had to swap it out... Other than tunning the temp turn on/off.. its been awesome...
Again, the mechanical fan/shroud cools better but running these fans also work well....
I can't take credit for it, a local cruiser guy Jens turned me on to this setup, nod to him....
If you have an FZ Radiator, you can run a Mitsubishi Outlander 2003-2006 2.4L Radiator Electric Fans. A little trimming & tabs, and this Radiator Fan falls right into a 1FZ Radiator. It is a perfect fit....
I am running a DORMAN 620365 with a Universal Fan Controller (got the one from RockAuto, easy setup)
A little trimming and here is the fan is inserted in the 1FZ Rad. I was surprised at the fitment... You run it upside down, cut the tabs, and it falls right into place. A little silicon on the corners and its a sealed assembly.
Plenty of room for activities...
This was my original setup. I had a mechanical fan/shroud. I can't fab for chit but my chity shroud worked awesome on my SAS trip...
During the same trip my 3FE Rad blew-up and I made the switch to the 1FZ rad and decided to try the Electric Fans vs trying to build a new shroud..
I have ran these Electric Fans for almost a year with almost no issue. I did have one relay get stuck closed and I had to swap it out... Other than tunning the temp turn on/off.. its been awesome...
Again, the mechanical fan/shroud cools better but running these fans also work well....
I can't take credit for it, a local cruiser guy Jens turned me on to this setup, nod to him....
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What's up guys! Excellent source of information for sure. I'm in the UZ family but with the first iteration - the non- VVTI 1UZ. So, i did read through every post and every bit of this thread. Very informative but also equally terrifying as I compare it to my current 1UZ swap. First is how far away the engine seems to be from your axles (i haven't checked my tire fender stuff yet and mounts are already welded in place), secondly no one seems to be having problems with the tcase shifter being located too far forward (mine is ~9" forward), and thirdly your drivetrains seem to be tucked much higher into the transmission tunnel then i can get mine to tuck. My transmission shifter bracket arm deal that connects to the linkage is hitting the top of the t case actuator so thats preventing full tuck.
Anyway - excellent thread and if anyone wants to follow along on my woes and rabbit holes through my own build mess here's the thread: 1991 FJ80 - The Long Game | Build Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1991-fj80-the-long-game-build-thread.1376665/
Anyway - excellent thread and if anyone wants to follow along on my woes and rabbit holes through my own build mess here's the thread: 1991 FJ80 - The Long Game | Build Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/1991-fj80-the-long-game-build-thread.1376665/
HEY! Nice build thread! I have a big rod non vvti 1uz in my DD Tacoma. Im currently putting one in my 60
Zjohnsonua
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Our club wrench day this weekend brought up this discussion: donor pros and cons. Let's get into 'em. Gonna hear "generally" a lot here as we're playing with large volumes and hoping to hit winners in trends.
Tundra - Millions exist and they have deep parts support. They're generally really affordable. Most came in 4wd variants with A343E transmissions. Cons, most were work trucks and beaten on. Generally higher mileage, with more questionable maintenance.
Sequoia - They're pretty affordable, commonly acquired under $4k. Many were made, though fewer than Tundra (for scale, 2005 Tundra moved ~120k units. 2005 Sequoia moved ~40k.) For our purposes this doesn't matter much as the main part needs are interchangeable, maybe being downgraded (alternator for example - Sequoia got up to 140 and 150A, Tundra around 100A). Sequoia was generally used in family hauler duty and driven more gently accordingly. The intake tube, the trans cooler, the oil cooler supply pipe, the vac booster plumbing and a gazillion fasteners, brackets and clips are all needed or useful. Maybe even the rear AC unit is useful for your case.
4th gen 4Runner - Another available option. They sold over 100k units in 2005, most were V8. All of these V8 trucks are equipped with A750. Avoid the first year as there were lots of changes as yoshi chased problems. Most of these trucks are VVTi if that's your jam. Late 2004 is your goldilocks here if you dont want VVTi. If you're going the 5spd auto route and want a flexible shifter location, keep this model in mind. Perks, there are a few high current (think 40+ amp) circuits available in the OE wiring to feed the HVAC. These can be re-purposed (mine feeds my ARB compressor).
GX470 - mostly the same details as 4R, except GX came with a tidy, mostly compact rear AC unit that you may be interested in. 4R and GX both have deep ownership to move some used parts into.
LC/LX - seemingly the obvious 1st choice, but slow down, Turbo. Totaled wrecks are pricey. Not many available (2005 LC saw a whopping 5k trucks come over.) The main parts you need from one of these is the transmission/tcase and the oil pan assembly. Transmissions are ~2k used with a 30 day warranty. Oil pans new are ~800, used about half that. Most everything else can be gotten from any of the other models.
My 4spd preference? A ~170k mile 2wd Sequoia, a used transmission with similar mileage, and a new set of oil pans. Cases and peripherals vary depending on the host truck.
My 5spd preference? 04 4runner, used transmission, and new pans.
Tundra - Millions exist and they have deep parts support. They're generally really affordable. Most came in 4wd variants with A343E transmissions. Cons, most were work trucks and beaten on. Generally higher mileage, with more questionable maintenance.
Sequoia - They're pretty affordable, commonly acquired under $4k. Many were made, though fewer than Tundra (for scale, 2005 Tundra moved ~120k units. 2005 Sequoia moved ~40k.) For our purposes this doesn't matter much as the main part needs are interchangeable, maybe being downgraded (alternator for example - Sequoia got up to 140 and 150A, Tundra around 100A). Sequoia was generally used in family hauler duty and driven more gently accordingly. The intake tube, the trans cooler, the oil cooler supply pipe, the vac booster plumbing and a gazillion fasteners, brackets and clips are all needed or useful. Maybe even the rear AC unit is useful for your case.
4th gen 4Runner - Another available option. They sold over 100k units in 2005, most were V8. All of these V8 trucks are equipped with A750. Avoid the first year as there were lots of changes as yoshi chased problems. Most of these trucks are VVTi if that's your jam. Late 2004 is your goldilocks here if you dont want VVTi. If you're going the 5spd auto route and want a flexible shifter location, keep this model in mind. Perks, there are a few high current (think 40+ amp) circuits available in the OE wiring to feed the HVAC. These can be re-purposed (mine feeds my ARB compressor).
GX470 - mostly the same details as 4R, except GX came with a tidy, mostly compact rear AC unit that you may be interested in. 4R and GX both have deep ownership to move some used parts into.
LC/LX - seemingly the obvious 1st choice, but slow down, Turbo. Totaled wrecks are pricey. Not many available (2005 LC saw a whopping 5k trucks come over.) The main parts you need from one of these is the transmission/tcase and the oil pan assembly. Transmissions are ~2k used with a 30 day warranty. Oil pans new are ~800, used about half that. Most everything else can be gotten from any of the other models.
My 4spd preference? A ~170k mile 2wd Sequoia, a used transmission with similar mileage, and a new set of oil pans. Cases and peripherals vary depending on the host truck.
My 5spd preference? 04 4runner, used transmission, and new pans.
Just to echo some of this...
The Land Cruiser is also more complicated than the other platforms. Tundra seems to be the most basic, with the others following close behind. LC wiring had a bunch of subsystems going to unnecessary secondary ECU's for dumb stuff on the body side of things that creates a bunch of unneeded pin placement on the ECM plugs.
If you're eliminating all of this and using a standalone harness, then all of this is moot. However, if you're trying to homogenize an engine harness/ECM with a body harness of the vehicle it is going in like I did (idiot), then the Tundra wiring is the way to go.
Zjohnsonua
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- #78
Kinda fun making the 2uz look snazzy. '98+ LS400 and LS430 got aluminum timing covers. Can usually pick them up at salvage yards pretty reasonably. Here's the final if you go that route:
Damn I wish my 80 engine compartment looked like that.
Randomness...
Just found out that the cruise control switch for a 1994 has the same physical dimensions as my 1992, but the same circuitry as the 1999 that my drivetrain and ECM came from.
I took a gamble after comparing the EWD for each year (it looked the same) and bought one off Ebay. Before wiring it up, I ohmed both switches out (94 and 99) and got the same measurements for on/off, set and resume. So, I wired it up and what do you know?!?!? It worked!
Just found out that the cruise control switch for a 1994 has the same physical dimensions as my 1992, but the same circuitry as the 1999 that my drivetrain and ECM came from.
I took a gamble after comparing the EWD for each year (it looked the same) and bought one off Ebay. Before wiring it up, I ohmed both switches out (94 and 99) and got the same measurements for on/off, set and resume. So, I wired it up and what do you know?!?!? It worked!