2LTE pyro readings (1 Viewer)

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That looks just the job. Changing the exit location was also a common mod on the hilux Surf (I did it on mine) as it stopped you bending it when reversing into a slope as the Surf had a pretty large overhang. Also prevents it getting clogged with mud in the same situation. Looks a really good job, be interesting to see what the pyro readings are now.
 
Readings on 13BT with stock exhaust (degrees F.) :
Idle 300
city 400 - 600, 40~60 Km/hr, 2,000~2,800RPM, 2~8psi boost
hwy 700 - 900, 80~100 Km/hr, 2,200~2,500RPM, 5~8psi
long grade - 1,000 - 1,100, 90~100 Km/hr, 2,600 RPM, 8psi

Seems to peak at 1,100 deg. Autometer EGT about $180, installs easy with just drilling a 1/4" hole about an inch below the turbo exhaust outlet. Trying my damnedest to find some one to build me a 2.5 or 3" stainless exhaust, got me a nice Magnaflow muffler to go with:)
 
Chang-kuao-lo said:
Readings on 13BT with stock exhaust (degrees F.) :
Idle 300
city 400 - 600, 40~60 Km/hr, 2,000~2,800RPM, 2~8psi boost
hwy 700 - 900, 80~100 Km/hr, 2,200~2,500RPM, 5~8psi
long grade - 1,000 - 1,100, 90~100 Km/hr, 2,600 RPM, 8psi

Seems to peak at 1,100 deg. Autometer EGT about $180, installs easy with just drilling a 1/4" hole about an inch below the turbo exhaust outlet. Trying my damnedest to find some one to build me a 2.5 or 3" stainless exhaust, got me a nice Magnaflow muffler to go with:)

Have you seen my post on my intercooler completion? I get the following EGT's:)
Idle about 200
city haven't paid attention:eek:
hwy (55mph) about 380-400
Highest seen yet about 600 on hills
My EGT probe is about 3" below turbo exhaust outlet. Might have to try and move it up farther.
 
Wayne,
Just curious...any particular reason you ran the exhaust all the way to the back?

On my 70, with 2.5" exhaust it runs down to the frame rail, and along until it exits just in front of the right side rear tire. In total, there are only 2 bends in it (3 if you include the actual turbo exhaust dump).

I'm just asking because the more bendy it is, the more constrictive it is. Was it to reduce noise, or to fit the muffler you have, or both?

Craig.
 
And why would you run it outside the frame? It'd be alot easier to put sliders on if it were run inside the frame...:confused:
 
Greg_B said:
Are you saying the Engineers at Toyota did not have to redesign the head...and all they needed to do was make a larger exhaust?

gb

Greg.

I think that Toyota needed to redesign the head, not enough meat on the face of it to allow for any problems. Not normally like Toyota to design a weak point into their Diesel engines, especially ones that are fitted to engines that are expected to run for ever with little or no maintenance in some of the most inhospitable climates in the world.

I think the Exhaust Mod, like the EGR mod and the other things that can be done to improve the cooling and/or the early warning of difficulties (like extra temp sensors lower in the engine) just fix the symptom rather than the problem.

The problem was still a under performing head casting which has been fixed with a redesign - not a major one, just added some extra thickness to the face of the head, now you can get away with minor problems, although it still is of benefit to make sure he cooling system functions 100%, modify the exhaust and disconnect the EGR valve. All good modifications, esepcially the EGR valve for ease of doing it as the 2L series engine was never originally designed to use an EGR valve, in fact early ones didn't have one, they just used very basic emissions equipment if any.

Later varients of the 2L engine such as the 2L2 had electronic EGR valves which performed better and didn't have any real disasterous consequences for the engine, power, smoke or economy.

Still back to the topic, Exhaust looking good Wayne.
 
lumpy70 said:
Wayne,
Just curious...any particular reason you ran the exhaust all the way to the back?

On my 70, with 2.5" exhaust it runs down to the frame rail, and along until it exits just in front of the right side rear tire. In total, there are only 2 bends in it (3 if you include the actual turbo exhaust dump).

I'm just asking because the more bendy it is, the more constrictive it is. Was it to reduce noise, or to fit the muffler you have, or both?

Craig.
a couple reasons, with a 4 door and if you dump in front of the wheel then the exhaust can get into the rear passenger compartment through open windows.
also once you have started to loose your hearing you will understnad why a guy like me wants the exhaust tip as far away from his ears as possible but still be practical...
cheers
 
wesintl said:
And why would you run it outside the frame? It'd be alot easier to put sliders on if it were run inside the frame...:confused:
the problem with trying to stay inside the frame is the vacumm shift for the t/case and the location of the fuel lines.
on the PZ i had no problems running inside the frame and above the lowest portion of hte frame but with this unit there is no practical way of running it inside the frame...
i do not want the exhaust run in such a way it could get crunched when driving over a fallen log of a steep bank...
cheers
 
I guess the vac assembly could get in the way...

Has anyone just dumped it out behind the front wheel like in the first pic?

So maybe 3-4 feet total?
 
This is a great thread / mod - good to see positive results. I would like to do nearly same on our PRado but just 2.5 and likely open exhaust. Dumb question but you have to drill a hole for the EGT probe and after you put your probe inside the downpipe , do you fill the hole with any kind of high temp material that fills the hole so you dont start a weak spot in the metal and exhaust leak? What holds the probe in place? Do you put it right in the middle of the "blast zone"?


Off topic but sort of related to the 2.4 cooling issues and monitoring leads me to dumb question #2: where would you install an aftermarket water temp gauge on the 2.4 TD? You dont use the stock sending unit location do you?

Thanks!
johnny
 
i drill and into the cast tap right after the exhaust turbines and i have found the temps read about 150 degr higher there than down into the exhaust pipe....

there is another plug you can tap into oin the thermostate housing or you run a "T" and then botht he factory sender and the after market into the same spout...
cheers
 
so far this is what i have found.
factory settings, nothing changed except the exhaust and i have a 50-200F drop across the board. next i will turn up the boost to 14PSI and then up the fuel a bit...
cheers
 
Last edited:
wesintl said:
I guess the vac assembly could get in the way...

Has anyone just dumped it out behind the front wheel like in the first pic?

So maybe 3-4 feet total?

Illegal in BC. Something about it having to dump behind any side doors. Dunno about other jurisdictions…

gb
 
Chang-kuao-lo said:
Readings on 13BT with stock exhaust (degrees F.) :
Idle 300
city 400 - 600, 40~60 Km/hr, 2,000~2,800RPM, 2~8psi boost
hwy 700 - 900, 80~100 Km/hr, 2,200~2,500RPM, 5~8psi
long grade - 1,000 - 1,100, 90~100 Km/hr, 2,600 RPM, 8psi

Seems to peak at 1,100 deg. Autometer EGT about $180, installs easy with just drilling a 1/4" hole about an inch below the turbo exhaust outlet. Trying my damnedest to find some one to build me a 2.5 or 3" stainless exhaust, got me a nice Magnaflow muffler to go with:)

Seems pretty close to the readings with my 13BT as well. Shimmed the wastegate out 6mm, and brought the temps down a tad, and the boost went up to 10psi. I did not touch the fuel.

Exhaust will help, as Waynes numbers show. When I do mine I will post up numbers too.

gb
 
wesintl said:
I guess the vac assembly could get in the way...

Has anyone just dumped it out behind the front wheel like in the first pic?

So maybe 3-4 feet total?

That would be horribly loud, especially is the fuel is opened up a little :D
I'm a "rear exit" believer myself, but it's not always easy or practical to make.
 
one man's aceptable is another man's "horribly" loud...
to me, if it was a strickly bush rig then dumping it there MIGHT makes sense but i like them out the side at the back...
cheers
 
wesintl said:
Turbo'd:confused: I could see it being louder, but horribly loud?

The turbo'd straight out exhaust with good fuel and turbo tweaks is about as loud as NA.
That would totally suck if you ever plan on any kind of city driving when you want to accelerate just a little bit.
Even with on small silencer is too noisy for my taste.

When I build the mighty 2LT I will go for a long complete exhaust in 2.5 or 3" dia and at least one silencer, that way I can race all day long and not be deaf at the end of the day :hillbilly
 
That exhaust is a work of art. If your "exhast guru" could make me a bolt on 2.5" stainless for the '74, I pay good money for it:)
 
denis said:
The turbo'd straight out exhaust with good fuel and turbo tweaks is about as loud as NA.
That would totally suck if you ever plan on any kind of city driving when you want to accelerate just a little bit.
Even with on small silencer is too noisy for my taste.

When I build the mighty 2LT I will go for a long complete exhaust in 2.5 or 3" dia and at least one silencer, that way I can race all day long and not be deaf at the end of the day :hillbilly

Ok :) so I might not be able to hear the exhaust over the noise of the swampers is what your telling me :D
 

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