2LTE Head Replacement (1 Viewer)

[GTSSportCoupe]

Usually blow-by is a issue with the rings/cylinder bore. It's possible if the valve guides/seals were shot some pressure could get into the crank case that way, but from my experience with these motors, I'd say it's unlikely.

I think the question should be, why do you think your turbo needs rebuild/replacement? If it's just oil in the intake, then more likely as Nas90tdi said, it's just the oil from the PCV breather. However, if the oil is coming out the turbine into the exhaust, then as Dougal said, it could very well be from blow-by. When I ruined my old 2LTE shortblock and it had lots of blow-by, it was pushing oil out the turbine seal into the exhaust even though the turbo was in fine condition.

Make sure you clean the surface of your block really really well when you do your cylinder head job. Scrape/scrub it meticulously clean. Also, clean the head bolt holes with brake clean and blow them out with compressed air. Follow the factory repair manual when you torque the head down (do the multiple passes in the right sequence with the right torque - put oil on the threads and under the bolt heads too). If you're not careful about this part, you can end up with headgasket issues in the future. It's a multi-layer-steel gasket that normally will never let you down...but it also has no tolerance for imperfect surfaces.

 

[Dougal]

So If I understand you correctly, once I get the head replaced, there should be less blowby, therefore all I have to do is clean the turbo?

No. The head is responsible for leaks of combustion gas and oil into coolant and vice versa.
Worn piston rings and/or cylinder liners are the cause of excessive blowby.

 

[Yoyota]

The ebay ad says that it is for a 2L-T motor. I have a 2L-TE. is there any difference? link below


CT20 turbocharger turbo 17201-54030 Toyota Landcruiser 4-Runner 2.4 TD 2L-T 86HP | eBay

 

[AirheadNut]

The part number shows that it is indeed only for the 2L-T engines (17201-54030). The 2L-TE turbo shows up as 17201-54060. If the photos in the ad are anything to go by it looks like the early turbo has a flange on the compressor housing outlet, whereas the later one is set up for a silicone pipe.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

The ebay ad says that it is for a 2L-T motor. I have a 2L-TE. is there any difference? link below


CT20 turbocharger turbo 17201-54030 Toyota Landcruiser 4-Runner 2.4 TD 2L-T 86HP | eBay

AirheadNut is right, that is the wrong turbo. There are two versions, an early and late version. The early one is the link you've given. The later one is what you need.

This is the right one: CT20 Turbo charger for Toyota HILUX 2.4L Landcruiser 2.4L Hiace 2.4L 17201-54060 | eBay

 

[Yoyota]

Do you NEED the Valve Clearance adjustment tool SST 09248-64101?? link below...



Toyota SST Valve Adjustment Clearance Tool Diesel Engine Motor 09248-64011 | eBay

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Do you NEED the Valve Clearance adjustment tool SST 09248-64101?? link below...



Toyota SST Valve Adjustment Clearance Tool Diesel Engine Motor 09248-64011 | eBay

Did your new cylinder head come with a new valve train? If not, you will have to transfer the valve train from your old cylinder head to the new one. And yes, your valves will need to be adjusted. However, this can be done by an automotive machine shop. They don't use a new shims or a shim tool. What they do is measure everything, and then remove a precise amount from the end of the valve stem. It's quick and not that expensive. Just have the machine shop do it all for you. They'll do a valve grind, put on the valves seals and more. You should buy new cam shaft bearings too if you haven't already. Get the Taiho brand; they're very good.

 

[Yoyota]

The hardening is wearing out on the camshaft. New Camshaft? If "Yes", then where is the best place to get it from?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

The hardening is wearing out on the camshaft. New Camshaft? If "Yes", then where is the best place to get it from?

Did you measure the cam shaft per the factory manual to see if it's really out? Usually Toyota cams last a very long time. Can you post a close up? It might be fine....

I bought a brand new toyota cam for a 3L (more lift and duration, more power) and it was $300CAD. Sold my old 2LTE one for $50...

 

[Yoyota]

As this project progresses I gots the parts coming in from all over the world. Turbo From Hong Kong. Cam shaft bearings from a Cranky dealer in Australia. OEM valve adjustment tool from the United Emirates. The one thing that I have not been able to source is a injector rebuild kit. That should be easy non? Anyone have a tip on where to get a Diesel injector re-build kit for a 2L-TE? Can you use just any old kit for a Toyota diesel?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

As this project progresses I gots the parts coming in from all over the world. Turbo From Hong Kong. Cam shaft bearings from a Cranky dealer in Australia. OEM valve adjustment tool from the United Emirates. The one thing that I have not been able to source is a injector rebuild kit. That should be easy non? Anyone have a tip on where to get a Diesel injector re-build kit for a 2L-TE? Can you use just any old kit for a Toyota diesel?

I tried rebuilding my own 2LTE injectors twice. Followed the standard procedure that a lot of DIY'ers use. I also built a 'pop tester'. First I bought no-name nozzles (the replaceable part), and then I bought proper Denso nozzles. The no-name nozzles were garbage and produced uneven injection and unreliable spray pattern. The Denso nozzles were good, but after a while became un-even for me. I was very careful doing everything as properly as possible. Got the pop pressures within 25psi even. Not sure what I did wrong... But if I were going to do it again, I'd just send them away for rebuild. Just my experience....

 

[Yoyota]

Where can I buy valve clearance shims?

 

[Yoyota]

The 2L-TE re-build Project is finished! Here is what I have learned. I got a un-dressed 3L head from the United Emirates for $1000. I should have gotten it with the valves and camshafts mounted. The $300 I was quoted by the local machine shop to swap the valves eventually spiraled into $700. $840 if you include the Valve Clearance shims I had to buy. (Get them in Canada at Rocky Mountain Imports 800-921-4536 btw) $990 if you include the valve adjustment tool. Plus it delayed the project greatly. I used Ebay primarily to get the parts. Water pump from the Philippines, new turbo from Hong Kong. Valve adjustment tool From the United Emirates, Cam shaft shims from Australia, already talked about the head from the UAE. I also took the advice of this Forum (Airhead Nut?) and switched to Evans Waterless coolant. I did not do the mechanical Labor myself. I had a Professional mechanic moonlighting in his back yard do it. It took 7 months for him to complete it, but to his credit, its done. It runs. Starts up great. SOOOOOOO What I have noticed is that it has a tendency to Run High temperatures. I have only had it back for a week. First time I took it for a highway ride the tempurature guage was right up there. Then It abruptly dropped down to 3/4. ( Air in the system?) I notice that driving lightly without the turbo light on really reduced your tempurature. Again yesterday it was running in the Highest part of the temp guage. Reducing the turbo and turning on the heating system insiude solved that problem. The Mechanic who worked on this machine said that the coolant was realy gross and that he reccomended cleaning it in 1000 kms. Sounds like we should have cleaned the radiator while it was out (for seven months......) Just runnning through some ideas to fix the overheating issue. Intercooler? 2nd rad? There was a post on new oil into the rad fan. Bigger fan? Any thoughts and suggestions welcome.

 

[AirheadNut]

Sounds like somewhat normal heat issues for a 2L-TE. I would say do a full flush on the cooling system, install a Tridon high flow thermostat (there are several threads here that talk about it), change out the fluid in the fan clutch and upgrade to a larger fan, and turn up the boost to around 15psi and add an intercooler.

Don’t skimp on keeping the engine cool, you’re protecting your investment into that motor.

 

[Yoyota]

Any suggestions on where to buy a Inter cooler?

 

[AirheadNut]

I know several LJ owners here have had good results with water to air intercoolers from eBay. There is a thread either here in the diesel tech section or in the 70-series section that showcases a bunch of different intercooler setups.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Any suggestions on where to buy a Inter cooler?

Intercoolers on these motors are excellent, but I highly recommend you sort out your more immediate water temp issues first.. Sounds to me like it's running much hotter than it should be if you're just doing regular driving. Might have to pull your rad and have it flushed? There is a chinese aluminum rad for these trucks that sells pretty cheap on ebay right now. I bought one and it's working out good (brackets are a bit cheap, but ok otherwise). Servicing the fan clutch is also really important and can make one of the biggest differences.

You will find the engine runs a bit hotter with the Evans, but it will protect your motor by preventing hotspots that you get with regular water coolant.

Glad the new cylinder head worked out. The machine shop could have saved you a PILE of money by grinding the valve stem ends to set your valve clearances....oh well.

 

[Yoyota]

The over heating issues seem to be thing of the past! There was the initial spikes when I 1st got the machine back, now it runs like a dream! I expect it was air in the system?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

The over heating issues seem to be thing of the past! There was the initial spikes when I 1st got the machine back, now it runs like a dream! I expect it was air in the system?

Right on. Yes; could just have been air for sure.

 

[Previa Diesel]

You can make up an air over water rad flusher with these tips from Princes Auto. They fit on an airline quick release BTW, not a pressure washer one. I found an old metal foam blowing gun at Restore, tapped it 1/4 NPT at the siphon and outlet, got a swivelling female hose fitting with a male 1/4" NPT thread on the other end from the local hose & fitting shop, and a cranked pressure washer wand from Princess again, (comes threaded male 1/4 NPT) fitted an airline quick release, and screwed it all together for about $40. Attach airline and garden hose and flush like a pro!

I'd take a photo, but I just robbed the wand off it to use on my pressure washer for a certain job.

Once you've blown the loose crap out, lay the rad down and fill with CLR and let it soak for few days, pour the CLR into a jug, flush with water and repeat.

If when you drain the rad through the top or bottom hose barbs, liquid seems to be trapped until you tip it over and drain from the opposite end, that tells you there is calcification blocking some of the vertical tubes. Repeat as necessary.

If there's a good, old fashioned rad shop in your area, it's worth letting them put it in their tank at least for a pressure test before you spend a lot of time and potentially money. I would insist on seeing the pressure test yourself before shelling out a pile of money for a recore. Some places will play that game, especially if they have no competition around.

You could do the test yourself with a simple frame made of 2x6s, a drop sheet, and a garden hose, plus whatever fittings you need to feed a few pounds of air pressure into the submerged rad so you can watch for bubbles.

After going through all the hassle of a DIY rad overhaul, I have a new appreciation for cooling and will never use non-distilled water again. If you don't have a still or don't want to buy the stuff, rainwater is distilled by nature I understand.

And if that wasn't enough, I also glass beaded mine at about 20-30 PSI as I wanted to see where any problems were, as well as repaint it. It was a worthwhile step, that and straightening out all the bent fins was really fun.