- Thread starter
- #61
Anyone recommend where to get injector nozzles? They are all leaking and bad spray patterns.
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Any diesel shop that can cross reference a Denso part should have no trouble getting them.. wort case I know the Portland diesel shop had no trouble getting me mine Coming Soon – Diesel Fuel Injection Services - https://dfispdx.com/
- Thread starter
- #63
Well. It finally went in!
Pulling it from the house to the shed took a good 20 minutes in the snow. Quite the workout.
The wheels kept getting stuck in the mud. I don't recommend doing this, but a drunk canuk is not known for being smart. I stuck my hitch winch on one of my spare bumpers, and stuck it behind the winch, then hooked it to the 4runner. Battery tap and the motor moved itself towards the engine bay
It took 3 hours of me trying to mate the transmission before I gave up and just tightened the bolts. Pilot bearing be damned. Clutch engages and disengages properly.
Timing belt went on nicely, I find if I put the crank and cam gear 1 tooth backwards, I can line up the injector pump 1st try.
And on went the chewed up timing cover. I would like a non-damaged one, but the only person close enough to me wanted $100 for it lmao.
I also mounted the injector pump, however I won't be installing the lines until I get new nozzles for the injectors. So for now she sits. This weekend I will mount everything else and prime the oil pump. I'm hoping to get it back on the road around Christmas time. I have a list of things to buy still.
Anyways, it's good to be getting it back together. Until next weekend.
Pulling it from the house to the shed took a good 20 minutes in the snow. Quite the workout.
The wheels kept getting stuck in the mud. I don't recommend doing this, but a drunk canuk is not known for being smart. I stuck my hitch winch on one of my spare bumpers, and stuck it behind the winch, then hooked it to the 4runner. Battery tap and the motor moved itself towards the engine bay
It took 3 hours of me trying to mate the transmission before I gave up and just tightened the bolts. Pilot bearing be damned. Clutch engages and disengages properly.
Timing belt went on nicely, I find if I put the crank and cam gear 1 tooth backwards, I can line up the injector pump 1st try.
And on went the chewed up timing cover. I would like a non-damaged one, but the only person close enough to me wanted $100 for it lmao.
I also mounted the injector pump, however I won't be installing the lines until I get new nozzles for the injectors. So for now she sits. This weekend I will mount everything else and prime the oil pump. I'm hoping to get it back on the road around Christmas time. I have a list of things to buy still.
- Injector nozzles and shims - No sense running the same leaking injectors after spending $2600 at the machine shop
- Fuel tank - Rust kept clogging the fuel filter, probably contributed to the hole in cylinder #2
- Winter tires - ice until April
Anyways, it's good to be getting it back together. Until next weekend.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Nice work! With all that money and effort in the long block, I'd highly recommend just buying rebuilt injectors that are ready to go. I played around with rebuilding mine, and they weren't that reliable. I was really careful. Also, make SURE you replace the nozzle crush washers in the head, otherwise the injector nozzles get sooted up and over heat and go all to sh!t. Might be why my diy rebuilt injectors had issues, lol. Anyhow, I always use new nozzle washers when I have injectors out how. The other washers can be re-used tho. I ended up buying brand new oem Toyota injectors. Was totally worth it.
- Thread starter
- #65
Hey that’s not a bad idea. Where did you get your injectors from? I was going to get OEM nozzles from megazip, and that was gonna run me $200~ CAD.
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- #66
I remember seeing one of your threads about the throttle nozzles vs regular ones. I know my diesel is way clackier then my friend’s 90s model one so I assume I would try and get the regular type injectors.
- Thread starter
- #67
Quick update. I've sourced a set of OEM reman injectors from a machine shop out by Kamloops. $500 and some change + send my old ones back as cores. Not bad.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Right on!
- Thread starter
- #69
Injectors are in, new fuel tank is in. Sorry I didn't get any pictures, winter was hitting hard (about -15C when I was working) and my phone didn't want to work. I plan on firing it up this weekend and possibly taking it for a drive around the orchard.
What break in oil would you all recommend?
What break in oil would you all recommend?
- Thread starter
- #70
Welp it appears my fuel hand primer is bad. Killed the batteries 3 times trying to prime the system with the starter motor. -20 doesn't help either. Any ideas on getting it primes as painlessly as possible for the 10 minutes I have until I have to go in and defrost my hands?
Everything is done. Put in some cheap 15W40 diesel oil. Napa flavoured.
Canopy froze up on me with all my tools in it
Tried running a 3rd battery, only got about 20 seconds of cranking power, not nearly enough to suck from the tank.
Everything is done. Put in some cheap 15W40 diesel oil. Napa flavoured.
Canopy froze up on me with all my tools in it
Tried running a 3rd battery, only got about 20 seconds of cranking power, not nearly enough to suck from the tank.
- Thread starter
- #71
for priming it.. vacuum or perhaps one of of the inline fuel primers for a boat ( squeezy black bulb)?
Yep. You need a priming bulb from a boat. I use it everytime and it is always in the toolbox. Some days she randomly looses prime and it's my go to for a quick startup. You have to put your finger on the end of the pump outlet, then squeeze the air passed you finger while not allowing the pump to suck air back through the outlet past your finger. It'll eventually fill the bulb and shoot past your finger. Now keep the primer installed, and just plug the outlet of the primer bulb into your inlet hose to injection pump. Pump the bulb, and crack open your injectors. The bulb will get hard when it's filled the injection pump. Now crank it over until you see diesel at all the injectors. Close one injector at a time as you see it pumping clean, non bubbly fuel. I bet your primer is actually fine. This trick will pull it through the filter/pump and it'll get ya going.
Hint. "Pump, Primer, and Bulb" are all the same thing. Lol
If youve got compressed air, can pull fuel line off of 'in' side of filter housing, apply air to tank through filler cap with a rag jammed in hole to minimize loss and lightly pressurize system until youve got fuel up front. Yes it will make a mess if you dont use a container of some sort. Now your feed line is full of fuel, primer will usually pick it up from there. Can also fill the filter entirely this way if you pull the 'out' line off, just dont rush it.
- Thread starter
- #76
First start!
It was hard to get going, kept wanting to die unless I kept hard on the throttle until it warmed up a bit after about a minute. First impressions, there's no more thudthudthudthudthud noise coming out the intake. The new reman injectors seem to clack quite a bit louder, we were thinking it was loose valve lash or something worse, but it seems fine so I'll just chalk it up to diesel knock, it has been awhile since I've herd it run anyways.
Aside from that, I'm happy, ran it with the oil fill cap off and it barely even vibrates! Runs clean out the tailpipe too!
As for breaking it in, what would the best way to do that be? It currently has cheap Napa 15W40 dino oil in it, not sure when I'll want to change that out. It's not insured right now but I can drive it around the backwoods a bit (grew up ripping my dirtbike around) without a hassle, however I will probably be waiting until late February to drive it as I don't want some monkey brain sliding into me because they can't be bothered to learn to drive on ice.
It was hard to get going, kept wanting to die unless I kept hard on the throttle until it warmed up a bit after about a minute. First impressions, there's no more thudthudthudthudthud noise coming out the intake. The new reman injectors seem to clack quite a bit louder, we were thinking it was loose valve lash or something worse, but it seems fine so I'll just chalk it up to diesel knock, it has been awhile since I've herd it run anyways.
Aside from that, I'm happy, ran it with the oil fill cap off and it barely even vibrates! Runs clean out the tailpipe too!
As for breaking it in, what would the best way to do that be? It currently has cheap Napa 15W40 dino oil in it, not sure when I'll want to change that out. It's not insured right now but I can drive it around the backwoods a bit (grew up ripping my dirtbike around) without a hassle, however I will probably be waiting until late February to drive it as I don't want some monkey brain sliding into me because they can't be bothered to learn to drive on ice.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Congratulations!!! That's great! Sounds excellent to me
Run a basic 5w30 or 10w30 dino oil for breakin maybe? Definitely no synth. Make sure to take it up some good long highway grades to load it up steady for a while. Diesels need that to set rings properly.
I ruined a set of cam bearings in my motor starting at -25c with 15w40. Oil was so thick, the bearings were starved. Filled my oil with sparkles. So get that 15w40 out of there till late spring!!!
Run a basic 5w30 or 10w30 dino oil for breakin maybe? Definitely no synth. Make sure to take it up some good long highway grades to load it up steady for a while. Diesels need that to set rings properly.
I ruined a set of cam bearings in my motor starting at -25c with 15w40. Oil was so thick, the bearings were starved. Filled my oil with sparkles. So get that 15w40 out of there till late spring!!!
- Thread starter
- #78
Okay yeah I’ll dump the 15w40 and run some 10w30 for the break in period. I’m noticing it was hard to start today, needed basically full throttle to get going, with a noticeable stumble. Running pretty rich too. I’ll send a video later. I don’t start it anymore until I can run it around and seat the rings.
- Thread starter
- #79
And the stumble
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Is it still summer diesel in the tank? That definitely won't help. Does the glow system work? Cold starts will always be a bit tough, but much harder with a poor glow system. Also, it does take time for air to work it's way completely out of the fuel system. Air can cause weird stumble issues.
Heres a vid of mine at -8c with 10sec glow a few days ago. No block heater or anything used there. Running 10w30. It starts like that down to -15c. Below that I plug in block heater. Usually only if I'm in the interior. Island stays warmer.
