2L diesel swapped 1986 4Runner (1 Viewer)

[4Ruster]

Okay I've made a few threads about odds and ends on here. Here is a proper update I guess.

So timing belt slipped a tooth, replaced belt drove a couple more weeks like that. Had a guy from my local automotive facebook group come out and do a compression test. All 4 cylinders were in the low 300 psi range, with cylinder 2 the lowest. I figured whatever it still sounds the same and drives about the same, I'll just keep going a little longer until I get the bush truck somewhat road legal.
So a couple weeks go by and I'm hauling a whole W56 transmission with dual cases home in the back, and the truck is blowing terribly black smoke, like more then it's evr blown, and it started cutting out while I was going up a hill. Not good. Well the bush truck has mirrors and taillights finally so its good to go, switched insurance over and immediately started pulling the engine apart.
First thing I noticed

Great, however I have 2 still so **** it.

The head and valves looked decent, however there is a fairly clear imprint of the valves smootching the piston

That wasn't what worried me however. Inspecting cylinder number 2, I couldn't help but notice A GAPING DENT IN THE CYLINDER WALL

so out with the engine

 

[4Ruster]

Also looks like the headgasket was leaking from the oil galley.
Anyways, loaded up the engine and off the the machine shop

Couple weeks go by, I stop by during lunch since I work pretty much next door to them. Aaaaaand well here.

That was cylinder 2. I can only imagine the previous owner had the fuel absolutely cranked and melted the cylinder, I remember having to turn the fuel screw down a bit to keep the EGTs under 1100F.

So they recommended just boring out the cylinders .50 over and putting new pistons, rings, bearings, ect in. I gave the green light, may as well see what this engine can do when it's running with non-melted pistons and a small turbo. Hell, I can see now why it struggled to go above 80 km/h

 

[YotaDoc]

Thanks for keeping us in the loop. I'm going to pull off my NA manifold tonight and get the turbo manifold bolted on. I'll have to drill/ tap 4 holes since the 2L-t manifold is slightly different.

I picked up used turbo and she has some pedastal play so I plan to order a new one pretty quickly. I'll be running a ct20 turbo. Turn the fuel up so push around 9 psi safely. I think that's what the wastewater opens at. But I'll have to check to be certain. I have all kinds of gauges to install also, pyro, boost, water, oil, tach, voltage.

Excited to see everything put together. So next couple days I'll be pushing to get some work done! I'll post some pictures, then I'm headed for a cruise up Vancouver Island!

 

[4Ruster]

Piston set and bearings on their way! Hopefully I'll get the engine back by the end of the month!!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

@4Ruster Lots of same vintage 2L/2LT parts here (if you're on fbook):

Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/454195449764399/

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

@4Ruster Another one:

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[4Ruster]

@4Ruster Another one:

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Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

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2nd guy has a turbo manifold but won’t sell separately. Being a real ass about it too. Appreciate you looking for me, nice to have people close enough that marketplace ads are an option.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

2nd guy has a turbo manifold but won’t sell separately. Being a real ass about it too. Appreciate you looking for me, nice to have people close enough that marketplace ads are an option.

Might be able to get one new still for an ok price. I think its 17141-54022 which is out of stock, but 17141-54020 also works I think and does show in stock at Amayama. You'd have to look at it in diagrams to know for sure it would work though. It's $220CAD plus shipping.

 

[4Ruster]

Update. Block has been sleeved, bored, and decked. Should be able to pick it up this friday! As of now I just want to get the truck back together and driving. Turbo will come later, probably in the winter when I have some time off work.

 

[4Ruster]

Another update. Apparently the main bearings I bought where slightly thinner then the old ones, and pushing the clearance just above the max tolerance. They said if I wanted, it could be run, and it would just have lower oil pressure at idle. I agreed since I'm impatient and don't want to wait another month for a different brand of bearings to come in. What do you guys think? I'll probably just raise the idle and run a thicker oil.

 

[RyanMiller]

Another update. Apparently the main bearings I bought where slightly thinner then the old ones, and pushing the clearance just above the max tolerance. They said if I wanted, it could be run, and it would just have lower oil pressure at idle. I agreed since I'm impatient and don't want to wait another month for a different brand of bearings to come in. What do you guys think? I'll probably just raise the idle and run a thicker oil.

were the old bearings dusted? maybe best to re-use them.. The main bearings arent as easy to change as the rod bearings..

 

[YotaDoc]

Right on, I finished up my turbo swap, been driving for the past week or so. Went up the mountain and it performed exactly as it should. But I need the boost compensator... Mine is just the altitude adjuster, so Im really not feeling much added power from the turbo. I'm boosting 10psi egts never over 1000*. it just feels like it should pull harder but it doesn't. I'm going to pull the manifold and grind out the ports for a smoother transition.

I should add that is does pull really hard at times but others it just tops out since I don't have the boost compensator. Atleast I believe that to be the issue. Check out this link.

Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning

Basic HOW-TO Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning guide for most styles of VE injection pumps from Bosch, Delphi, Denso & Zexel.

www.tillix.com.au

It breaks it down better then I could ever explain it. Sadly the compensator isn't cheap ... Any ideas?! For now I feel like I'll just push it to 12 psi of boost with some washers between the wastegate and mounting surface.

Appreciate all the insight. Your threads have helped me immensely along the way.v

 

[RyanMiller]

Right on, I finished up my turbo swap, been driving for the past week or so. Went up the mountain and it performed exactly as it should. But I need the boost compensator... Mine is just the altitude adjuster, so Im really not feeling much added power from the turbo. I'm boosting 10psi egts never over 1000*. it just feels like it should pull harder but it doesn't. I'm going to pull the manifold and grind out the ports for a smoother transition.

I should add that is does pull really hard at times but others it just tops out since I don't have the boost compensator. Atleast I believe that to be the issue. Check out this link.

Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning

Basic HOW-TO Mechanical Diesel Engine Tuning guide for most styles of VE injection pumps from Bosch, Delphi, Denso & Zexel.

www.tillix.com.au

It breaks it down better then I could ever explain it. Sadly the compensator isn't cheap ... Any ideas?! For now I feel like I'll just push it to 12 psi of boost with some washers between the wastegate and mounting surface.

Appreciate all the insight. Your threads have helped me immensely along the way.v

what turbo? ct20 or TD04?

on my TD04- 10psi and 1000F while its working a load ( wind , hill or accelerating ) is totally normal as long as thats pre turbo.
at 10PSI my motor is really not making more power than stock., there are times that it takes 10psi to cruise at 100KMH if its windy.. those were times that I would lose speed or just start to belch black smoke. now its just doing it without any smoke.. but at 20psi its choochin!

with the altitude adjustment, you should be able to just turn the fuel up like a non compensated pump and just drive it carefully to keep it smoke free

 

[YotaDoc]

what turbo? ct20 or TD04?

on my TD04- 10psi and 1000F while its working a load ( wind , hill or accelerating ) is totally normal as long as thats pre turbo.
at 10PSI my motor is really not making more power than stock., there are times that it takes 10psi to cruise at 100KMH if its windy.. those were times that I would lose speed or just start to belch black smoke. now its just doing it without any smoke.. but at 20psi its choochin!

with the altitude adjustment, you should be able to just turn the fuel up like a non compensated pump and just drive it carefully to keep it smoke free

It's the Ct20, my temps are pre turbo, I have good oil pressure always 20psi at idle 40-60 when under load. 80psi at startup when cold.

I've turned the fuel screw +- 1/2 of a turn. I can watch the turbo spool on the gauge when I feel the most power and it spools right to 10psi but it travels as I'm on and off the throttle, other times it just boosts right to 10psi rather then slowly spooling to it. when I want to consistently boost 10psi the fuel just isn't there and the power drops off as I hold a steady rpm.

Certain times it accelerates great. Other times it's a dog. I might turn the screw a little bit more. How much boost are you pushing at the max? As long as my egts are good is it safe to push it to say 15psi? Or will the pump not fuel it. How are you controlling your amount of boost? I was going to add a couple more washers. I got about a ps when I added the last ones.

 

[RyanMiller]

It's the Ct20, my temps are pre turbo, I have good oil pressure always 20psi at idle 40-60 when under load. 80psi at startup when cold.

I've turned the fuel screw +- 1/2 of a turn. I can watch the turbo spool on the gauge when I feel the most power and it spools right to 10psi but it travels as I'm on and off the throttle, other times it just boosts right to 10psi rather then slowly spooling to it. when I want to consistently boost 10psi the fuel just isn't there and the power drops off as I hold a steady rpm.

Certain times it accelerates great. Other times it's a dog. I might turn the screw a little bit more. How much boost are you pushing at the max? As long as my egts are good is it safe to push it to say 15psi? Or will the pump not fuel it. How are you controlling your amount of boost? I was going to add a couple more washers. I got about a ps when I added the last ones.

I lost track of how many turns in I'm at, maybe 3 turns? but keep in mind that I have a different turbo( Td04 with a welded wastegate). I went enough that I had to lower the idle a turn or so.. my absolute max boost ive seen is 28 ( I swear it hit 30 once LOL), which it makes at like 3600rpm.. but dont expect this to spool up like a variable vane TDI.. even my td04 is slow to build boost under 2000rpm. These motors like to rev
I try to keep my EGTs 1150f sustained maximum and ill let it slide to 1300 if I'm playing around.... I can see my coolant temps pick up when Im up there, but they stay under 190 most the time

 

[YotaDoc]

I lost track of how many turns in I'm at, maybe 3 turns? but keep in mind that I have a different turbo( Td04 with a welded wastegate). I went enough that I had to lower the idle a turn or so.. my absolute max boost ive seen is 28 ( I swear it hit 30 once LOL), which it makes at like 3600rpm.. but dont expect this to spool up like a variable vane TDI.. even my td04 is slow to build boost under 2000rpm. These motors like to rev
I try to keep my EGTs 1150f sustained maximum and ill let it slide to 1300 if I'm playing around.... I can see my coolant temps pick up when Im up there, but they stay under 190 most the time

Ok so I should disconnect the wastegate for now and turn the fuel screw a bit. With the wastegate disconnected, I can boost a bunch more, which will keep my egts down after turning the fuel screw. It should add some power.

I had originally backed the fuel screw off since the egts would sky rocket at 10psi on a slight incline. Slowly turned it down till the egts were correct and added a single washer to the wastegate. Went from 9 psi to 10psi. But I lost all my extra power. When I had the fuel screw turned it wouldnt boost enough for the amount of fuel. And I couldn't boost anymore because my turbo piping would continuously blow off. I just replaced the piping and I should be able to push so higher psi. Which I'll be doing over the weekend.


Did you add the RPM gauge? I don't have one and my injection pump doesn't have the gear/sensor for the gauge so I don't think I can even monitor my Rpms. I havent touched the max rpm adjustment and don't plan to. But it would be nice to know the Rpms. Anything aftermarket out there?

 

[RyanMiller]

Ok so I should disconnect the wastegate for now and turn the fuel screw a bit. With the wastegate disconnected, I can boost a bunch more, which will keep my egts down after turning the fuel screw. It should add some power.

I had originally backed the fuel screw off since the egts would sky rocket at 10psi on a slight incline. Slowly turned it down till the egts were correct and added a single washer to the wastegate. Went from 9 psi to 10psi. But I lost all my extra power. When I had the fuel screw turned it wouldnt boost enough for the amount of fuel. And I couldn't boost anymore because my turbo piping would continuously blow off. I just replaced the piping and I should be able to push so higher psi. Which I'll be doing over the weekend.


Did you add the RPM gauge? I don't have one and my injection pump doesn't have the gear/sensor for the gauge so I don't think I can even monitor my Rpms. I havent touched the max rpm adjustment and don't plan to. But it would be nice to know the Rpms. Anything aftermarket out there?

mine did have a factory tach, and on that note I havn't touched the max rpm screw at all.

Sounds like the waste gate is holding you up on your setup, but also keep in mind that CT20 doesn't like to run much above 15psi so don't go shooting for 30.. I'm interested to see how it does for you with more fuel and less wastegate combined with a sealed up charge pipe

 

[4Ruster]

I got the short block back. $2090CAD in total. Not cheap, but still cheaper then buying a used motor on ebay. They didn't finish the head, however the exhaust guides are toast, so those are getting replaced too. I'm scared to see the bill for that.

You can see the sleeve installed.

Can't wait to get it in. I was thinking of getting my injectors pop tested, but the only shop that can do it is a 2 hour drive away.

 

[RyanMiller]

I got the short block back. $2090CAD in total. Not cheap, but still cheaper then buying a used motor on ebay. They didn't finish the head, however the exhaust guides are toast, so those are getting replaced too. I'm scared to see the bill for that.View attachment 3152632View attachment 3152631View attachment 3152630
You can see the sleeve installed.View attachment 3152629

Can't wait to get it in. I was thinking of getting my injectors pop tested, but the only shop that can do it is a 2 hour drive away.

Amazon product ASIN B072F2JDJV you can get a hand pump amazon one for about 90 bucks if you want to DIY... buy some shims, mine needed shims and I should really re-do them

 

[YotaDoc]

That engine is gunna run minty!

Update on my tuning. I went and pulled the waste gate hose and plugged it and turned the fuel up to 2.5 turns over stock. I see an absolute max boost or 24 psi. I'm seeing a max of 1300*. Usually more like 1050-1100* when going up an incline. It boost 16-18 psi really well and that where I like to just hold the throttle. To speed up Ill push it to 20psi and it'll cruise. Easily hitting 110kmhr with more power to spare. Once im at 110 it'll pull hard and just rip.

Pretty happy with it so far. Do you guys think I can safely push that kind of psi? I drive off my egts. I've read some guys trying to push 60psi into there 2Ls.... Which is shocking. But apparently boost won't hurt these little diesels, just to Kuch fuel causing high egts.

After further extensive research I've found that I can run at 1300* or 700*C mile after mile after. But once you surpass that temp you can risk quite a bit of damage.