2L diesel swapped 1986 4Runner (1 Viewer)

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Today I had the day off work. Did some small things that I've been putting off until now. Installed the power steering pump.
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Will have to make a new hydraulic line front the cooler to the other port on the steering box. I tried putting a 22r power steering pulley on the 2L one but it is too small, I'll try to bore it out a bit.
Now for those battery trays.
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Ripped the old one out and put some flat plating in
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Nothing special but it will work. Did the same to the other side and test fitted the batteries.
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Dropped in the new radiator and ran 4 gauge wire to connect both batteries.
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And hey a bottom rad hose!

Small update, but one step closer to driving!

On the way home I picked up some rear leafs from a 1st gen pickup. Collecting stuff for the solid axle swap.
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So went to try and start it today. Was warm out so I didn't use the glow plugs. Well it cranked and cranked a a good minute. So I got out and shorted the glow plugs. Engine caught but started revving higher so I killed the ignition. Thought it was kinda weird. Tried firing again, cranked forever so I hit the glow plugs again and it did the same thing. I'm thinking maybe its just all the excess fuel burning from cranking for so long. IDK.
 
Glow plugs were a bit oily too. Don't know if thats normal or not. I know **** all about diesels other then they'll run away if they start burning their own oil.

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Small things still. I popped the thermostat housing off to see what's inside and mount my temperature probe. Turns out its a 180 thermostat. I drilled a weep hole in it to make bleeding easier, worked for me in the past.
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I've fitted my aftermarket temperature probe where the factory gauge went, I will have to relocate the factory gauge somewhere else, perhaps the fitting for the injector pump ACSD coolant hoses go to as mine doesn't work anyways.
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As for the glowplugs, I stopped by Lordco and pickup up a Ford starter relay, now hook it up to a push button and I'm mint.
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The truck is looking complete again
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to top it off I got some mudflaps from pick and pull to throw on
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I have just realized a small issue when I was under the truck. I noticed an oil leak, upon further inspection I just hadn't tightened the oil drain plug all the way, easy fix. But... well I didn't quite realize how close it is to the IFS diff until now...
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I don't think I'm doing an oil change until I start the SAS:bang:
 
And to end the weekend, I have sourced a turbo diesel gauge cluster:cheers:
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We aren't going to talk about how much it costs to ship..... because I don't want to lol. Very exited for it to arrive.
 
With the current fuel prices, I've been seriously considering running veggie oil. Of course I live in the cold half the year so I can't swap just to veggie oil. So I was thinking of converting the truck the run dual fuel. I have that other fuel tank still, I can't imagine it would be that hard.
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I made a quick plan. Basically run it on diesel until the truck has warmed up. Then switch to veggie oil. I can easily tie into my rear heater lines and run a small liquid/liquid heat exchanger. I can also route my exhaust to hug the veggie oil tank, possibly allowing the oil to heat up that way, maybe even running copper tubing in coils inside the tank. I found some cheap duel fuel tank selectors that are electric, so it's as simple as flipping a switch.

What are you're guy's opinions?
 
Took the truck out on its maiden drive today! Drove it to my friends house. Took hills pretty good. I can go about 80km pretty easily. If I turn the fuel screw up slightly, would I get a bit more performance without causing any damage? It does have a 3 core radiator so I doubt it would overheat.
 
Okay after just under 1,000 km of driving the truck, here is a little review -per say-

It is slow.

Compared to my worn out 22r, it is slightly slower, so I don't really mind, and I knew it being an N/A mystery diesel motor, I wasn't expecting any improvements. However I feel like it is slower then it should be. I've always driven gassers my whole life so I'm doing the best I can to nail down what it is. But, it feels like in a gas engine when the distributor is too advanced, it kinda lugs, you give it more pedal and nothing changes, just the EGR temp goes up, but if you ease the go pedal and let it slowly wind itself up, it'll eventually get to a point where it'll accelerate better. I don't have the tach working yet, but based on speed and memory from before the swap, I'd say it's around 2100-2200RPM.
Here's a picture of the timing mark, it is ever so slightly above the mark on the timing cover. I don't know if that 1/16 of an inch matters at all.
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Another thing to note, the ACSD is non-operationable, but it is sitting in the engine-warm position, so I doubt that has anything to do with the problem. The fuel screw is turned 1/8th up from factory, no smoke, but spits a whisp of black if I free rev it. Still starts with a plume of blue smoke.

When I first started driving it, I would get EGTs well into the 1100F just trying to hold 60 km/h up a small hill. I popped the valve cover off and the exhaust valves were a good 0.20mm too tight. I adjusted the valves [ Intake: 0.30mm - Exhaust: 0.40mm ] and that drastically reduced my EGTs.

Normally cruising at 50 km/h the EGTs are about 300-450F
Cruising at 60 km/h the EGTs are about 400-600F
Holding 80 km/h on the flat highway to work the EGTs are around 600-800F
Attempting to hold 80 on the highway with a slight uphill is hard, the EGTs will sit around 900F

Any sort of hill at 60 km/h will slow me down to 50 km/h by the top and require me to either lug the engine in 4th, or wind it out in 3rd, EGTs will climb to 900-1100F depending on how long the hill is. I must mention I have 4.56 gears and 235/75/R16 tires.
On flat level surface, the truck takes about 20 seconds to get up to 60 km/h, and that's pushing the engine.

This truck will not cruise at anything above 80 km/h, it'll reach up to 90 km/h, but it won't be happy and the temps will make me slow down.

I must note my air filter is very on and pretty hard to see through, it's rusting on the metal wire holding it together, I have one coming in the mail but who knows how long that'll take to get here. I doubt that would do much though.


Just this weekend I took it camping up one of the mountains. I was on a 10% incline and the truck would not go up it unless I was in first going about 10 km/h up, would not hold 2nd at all. This is kinda pitiful as my friend in his 22r was well ahead of me and had to wait for my slow ass to get up. But once up it was fine.
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Great view to wake up to
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Couldn't wait to start camping, a bit early still:doh:
I'll have to go on about my camping setup later.

Fuel mileage has been pretty great, I've driven about 500 km to a tank with a pin hole in the bottom, so the trade off is *kinda* worth it.

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If I hold it at 900F+ too long the water temp will go up to 195~, but I've since nailed this down to my clutch fan, as it just windmills no matter how hot it is. Will have to replace it.
 
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Very cool build! your EGT's are darn near identical to mine with a turbo!. If you need any info on putting a turbo on, I did the TD04 saab turbo myself and its been a game changer for mileage and driveability!! let me know if I can help!
 
I played the video of your beast running this morning and my wife said "that sounds awful" and i replied "no honey, that sounds beautiful"
I have nothing intelligent to add except to say your runner should be more powerful than that imo. I had an LJ73 and it was significantly faster, yes it had a turbo but even still it was about the same speed as my BJ73 and that was a rocket 1989 edition, (some 89 3Bs have a 4B head and rotary pump) My LJ did get warm going up hills tho, my BJ did not.
Good Luck with the build from the opposite coast of Canada
 
Very cool build! your EGT's are darn near identical to mine with a turbo!. If you need any info on putting a turbo on, I did the TD04 saab turbo myself and its been a game changer for mileage and driveability!! let me know if I can help
Hey Ryan.

Im looking to turbo my 2.4 2L.

Did you fabricate your manifold?
Which turbo did you go with?
Did you opt for a water cooled turbo?
Intercooler? Would love some info. I've been building this little truck for a few months. Did a solid axle swap, 2wd to 4wd conversion. Now it's needs the turbo... And power steering which I'm going to fab something up for a 22r pump to mount on the engine

 
Hey Ryan.

Im looking to turbo my 2.4 2L.

Did you fabricate your manifold?
Which turbo did you go with?
Did you opt for a water cooled turbo?
Intercooler? Would love some info. I've been building this little truck for a few months. Did a solid axle swap, 2wd to 4wd conversion. Now it's needs the turbo... And power steering which I'm going to fab something up for a 22r pump to mount on the engine

Glad to hear this!!
I went with a TD04 that I got used from a Saab. no intercooler and I did not watercool it either, just oil. I used a 3l manifold, but they do not bolt up to the 2l, I had about 3 hours of die-grinding and elongating the holes to slots , and then still needed to make a standoff pipe too.. very basic fabrication, but not a bolt on affair. My truck is factory AC and Power steering, let me know if you need any pics of the brackets or whatnot.
heres my original thread if you want to check it out!
 
it's been awhile since my last update. i've made a few posts about the engine.
I fixed the overheating problem. The thermostat was the culprit, thats as far as it would open after the water even started boiling.
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Replaced it with an OEM thermostat, notice the proper one has a pressure valve on the bottom. Now the truck gets up to operating temperature much faster, and stays there. Took in on a 200km round trip through a mountain winy road and a bit of highway driving and it stayed dead pegged on 180.
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I've been running it on 20% biodiesel, I a bit of drop in power, of which I have never fully recovered (you have to push the pedal farther down to get going). But I was driving down a hill, and when I went to accelerate again, it wouldn't, then when I went to push the clutch in the engine sputtered out and died. I pulled over and drained the fuel filter and it came out BROWN with lots of debris. It started again so I drove a block to a gas station and filled it with fresh diesel and it drove fine for a couple weeks. Then after it sitting for a few days, I took it out, I noticed it was rolling a LOT of coal just accelerating normally, didn't feel a loss in power though. Drove fine for a few km until I got onto the highway, with a slight downhill slop it took forever to get to 80km/h, so I pushed the pedal more and it didn't accelerate it actually started slowing down, kept slowing down so I coasted off the highway to a side road and as soon as I put the clutch in it died on me.
So I figured I'll check the filter again, but when I emptied it, it came out clear, slightly yellow though. I managed to start it but it idled really rough for about 20 seconds then it smoothed out, so I got back on the highway the other way to head home, it didn't want to hold 80 and as I stopped in the turning lane at a red light it was idling rough again, I actually had to give it some gas to keep it smooth. It was fine on the backroad at 50-60km/h however so I made it home no issue.

I went to take a sample from the filter and this is what came out.
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I replaced the filter but as I was priming (with my mouth), I got a mouthful of gritty diesel, so I checked the tank.
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Soooooooooo I went down to the hardware store and bought some muriatic acid. Dropped the tank, drained it and diluted some acid in water and spent the day swashing the tank around.
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definitely not what diesel should look like.

I wasn't able to fully clean the tank but I got all the loose rust out. Filtered 80% of the diesel and poured 20L of it back in, then went down to the gas station and got a jerry can of fresh diesel. It's been running fine so far but I'm always worried it might clog the filter again on me.

I've noticed the engine kinda pulses or surges at idle and cruising throttle, nothing big, but enough to feel it slightly push you back and forth in your seat. I don't know what it would be, any ideas?
 
Soooooooooo I went down to the hardware store and bought some muriatic acid. Dropped the tank, drained it and diluted some acid in water and spent the day swashing the tank around.View attachment 3029206
definitely not what diesel should look like.

I wasn't able to fully clean the tank but I got all the loose rust out. Filtered 80% of the diesel and poured 20L of it back in, then went down to the gas station and got a jerry can of fresh diesel. It's been running fine so far but I'm always worried it might clog the filter again on me.

I've noticed the engine kinda pulses or surges at idle and cruising throttle, nothing big, but enough to feel it slightly push you back and forth in your seat. I don't know what it would be, any ideas?
I dont remember if you mentioned, have you replaced the nozzles and pop tested them since you got the motor? Mine had a really wonky shake at idle until I changed my nozzles. it made a very noticeable difference.

When I did change them I pop tested them and they were all barely in spec.. I recommend getting shims or new springs if you do change the nozzles.. if they are leaky or popping early it will run really rough, use a lot of extra fuel, and be down on power.
 
I dont remember if you mentioned, have you replaced the nozzles and pop tested them since you got the motor? Mine had a really wonky shake at idle until I changed my nozzles. it made a very noticeable difference.

When I did change them I pop tested them and they were all barely in spec.. I recommend getting shims or new springs if you do change the nozzles.. if they are leaky or popping early it will run really rough, use a lot of extra fuel, and be down on power.
Where did you get your nozzles and shims? I wouldn't mind trying that.
 
Where did you get your nozzles and shims? I wouldn't mind trying that.
Any reputable diesel shop can get them, they are standard Bosch/ Denso parts and are nothing special or fancy.

I didn't actually change any of the shims or springs, just swapped the nozzles and confirmed the pop pressures.
Home - https://oregonfuelinjection.com/ they have a really good site.. and just a heads up, you will need a very clear photo of your injection pump data tag.. and it may be a good idea to take out the injector and find the number engraved into the nozzle itself
 

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