2H injection pump removal question (1 Viewer)

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3_puppies

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Dec 2, 2002
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597
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Location
Helena MT
working on a 1981HJ47 with a 2H
cracked oil cooler cover plate
trying not to remove the front cover
I searched and found an old thread from 2012 that said the gear doesn't need to be removed to remove the pump
can I remove the pump from the pump retainer, 4 nuts? or better to remove the pump retainer with the pump?
marking things as I go
in the 2012 thread it stated there was a hex bolt that could be removed to see the gear teeth, I'm not finding that on mine.

bad idea?

not having any luck finding the old style cover plate, so I'm going to see if I can have this tig welded. other option is to go with the newer style plate along with the matching oil filter housing, which I was told will work fine, but then I need to find a complete unit.

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yikes! that's a crack. Did it happen out of the blue? got really hot? Any lead up signs to the crack happening?

You have the earlier 2h timing gear cover plate so no inspection hole.

It should be possible to remove the pump without removing the timing gear cover. As long as you don't turn the engine, or injection pump, the gears shall match. The rear nuts holding the pump on the engine side are notoriously difficult to reach even with the engine out, to loosen or tighten, but doable.

I have put together a 2h out of the engine bay and re installing the timing gears is pleasurable as the numbers are easy to match up.
I like the earlier 2h as it has a beefier oil cooling cover, also some had the centrifuge oil cleaner. I don't like your chances of tig welding the repair as once aluminium is dirty and already porous nature it does not repair well.

How many kms has the engine? For the job you have to do , kind of half tempting to give her a complete freshen up.
old and new cover..
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Kilkenny make new aftermarket castings, not great reviews about them. I do know they make early and later oil cooler housings, not cheap at around $1000 aud for what it they are. Secondhand in good nic is a better bet.
 
I emailed Kilkenny last week and haven't gotten a responce yet.
No idea on how it cracked, I picked it up last week. It was gone thru 3-4 years ago. The guy I bought it from didn't put many KM's on it since he bought it after the refresh. Engine runs good, just puking antiboil right now with the crack. No leaks otherwise, but can't be certain until this is fixed to check for other issues.
I'll mark where the pump is in relation to the pump retainer, as I see it is slotted.
I just wasn't sure the hole was large enough to get the gear thru.
 
I emailed Kilkenny last week and haven't gotten a responce yet.
No idea on how it cracked, I picked it up last week. It was gone thru 3-4 years ago. The guy I bought it from didn't put many KM's on it since he bought it after the refresh. Engine runs good, just puking antiboil right now with the crack. No leaks otherwise, but can't be certain until this is fixed to check for other issues.
I'll mark where the pump is in relation to the pump retainer, as I see it is slotted.
I just wasn't sure the hole was large enough to get the gear thru.
it is possible to do it and yes the ip timing gear only goes on one way. you shall learn some new swear words. I think it took two unis and a thin extension just the right length to get the rear nuts holding the ip.
I have stripped a few 2h's and just go for the timing cover for speed. The numbered timing cogs are easy and bring a healthy appreciation for this lovely old engine. For your sake too, hope all those coolant case bolts come out easy, often if neglected from cycles of time, heat and coolant, they rust into the core.
 
FYI, this video may help: Here

thanks for the video link

that shows pulling the pump retainer with the pump, so no need to undo the 2 inner nuts?? to seperate the pump from the retainer
 
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I guess so, the 4 nuts are for adjusting timing. Haven't done it that way myself but should be possible, very tight fit. There is a large o ring which goes in between there from memory which is worth replacing, I put a viton o ring for future veg oil. Here is a pic on the later 2h with the mount which holds the ip. Have to remove all fuel lines and brackets goes without saying.
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yikes! that's a crack. Did it happen out of the blue? got really hot? Any lead up signs to the crack happening?

You have the earlier 2h timing gear cover plate so no inspection hole.

It should be possible to remove the pump without removing the timing gear cover. As long as you don't turn the engine, or injection pump, the gears shall match. The rear nuts holding the pump on the engine side are notoriously difficult to reach even with the engine out, to loosen or tighten, but doable.

I have put together a 2h out of the engine bay and re installing the timing gears is pleasurable as the numbers are easy to match up.
I like the earlier 2h as it has a beefier oil cooling cover, also some had the centrifuge oil cleaner. I don't like your chances of tig welding the repair as once aluminium is dirty and already porous nature it does not repair well.

How many kms has the engine? For the job you have to do , kind of half tempting to give her a complete freshen up.
old and new cover..View attachment 3550452


That cover is probably not repairable.

It would be fun to try.
 
That cover is probably not repairable.

It would be fun to try.

update
I'm thinking you are correct, I finally got time to get it off today. It is a modular 2 piece design.
my guess as to what happened, is the coolant wasn't good for a cold climate and froze, found a freeze plug out behind the cover, and then broke the cover.

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