2f Turbo

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peesalot said:
" Most issues come from poor installation" - I would say NOT in the sniper case. The first version was very problematic with component parts DOA & ecu issues along with some design/packaging problems that were discovered after they got some run time.
The current version seems to have ironed out the packaging, internal parts issues, and reliability.
As far as installation, supplying the unit with proper fuel pressure, provide required sensors, proper voltage, thats about it.
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That is good to hear. It was early that these folks had the bad experiences. I don't think I have spoken to anyone who has installed one in the past 5 years or so. The 3 DOA right out of the box clearly wasn't install issues. Another one kept throwing errors and stranded us on a trail. After several long phone calls we were able to get the computer to respond and get us out. Bad chip. Another was performance issues that may or may not have been installation but given the dude who did it? I would doubt it was related to that. Obviously using EFI is a better way to deal with a turbo but a sealed carb is another way.
 
peesalot said:
Have you googled, " Can I run a turbo thru a Sniper ", the fuel system has to recognize the boost level to adjust, not sure how Sniper gets air volume/density data.
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I have not because I have never considered a Sniper as part of this experiment.
 
peesalot said:
Oh, I thought that was the dilema, my bad.
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Naw. That was just something randomly reccomended on Thursday.
I have always considered a carb.
The 40 I have has a worn out F. I have a worn out 2F on a stand and I have parts and pieces for this experiment I call the 2.5FT (3FE block with a 2F head and a carbed turbo set up.) The carb and intake will be the trickiest part for me. Propane would be a great solution but I would like to be able to swap back to a 2F if/when all this goes horribly wrong. :lol:
The first thing I need to do is get a decent head on the old 3FE block. I have a 2F head but on tear down discovered several of the valve seats are mangled and I do not really want to spend a grand on a head rework for this experimental concept. I may get it done anyway and it can go on a freshened 2F eventually.) Turns out a buddy has a good head I sold him about 12 years ago sitting in his garage. The plan is to get that back and use it to get the longblock cobbled together.
 
You can always do a draw through system. Then you do not have to worry about the carb needing to be able to handle boost. Mine is that way. Not the perfect setup. But it's certainly functional.
 
oddballs said:
Any reason for using the 2F head on the 3F block? Is it better suited for the turbo?
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Probably not. But it is lower compression so in discussions about this experiment the thought is it will react differently to the boost than a higher compression engine like a complete 2F or 3F and potentially not stress the weak points as much. Plus it is what I got free/ in trade so why not? The efi parts on the donor 3FE were trashed and the 2F block was broken.
I discovered the donor 2F head is in way worse shape than I thought so I am slow walking this as I work on just trying to get the 40 back on the road. The idea is to spend as little as possible on this set up since it is just an experiment.
I have been looking at some of the set ups that guys have done on the venerable Ford 300 i6s so building it is for sure doable. Functionality is questionable of course.
 
Yeah I have since discovered it lowers the compression slightly.

I am interested in these engines but seems as though there is not much support for them, from what I have read about them they are a weak design 4 bearing crank? Surely with a good tune they can last.

I have only recently joined this forum as not long ago bought a FJ73 MWB with 3F. I am planning on a multiport fuel injected turbo setup so looking for any information that can help me along the way.

I have heard it is similar to the Chev I6, is the Ford I6 similar as well?

Thanks
 
Love the idea. 2 cents, lower comp train of thought is good for attempt at boost on a tractor motor. Since it isnt a high rpm engine a smaller turbo with pipes sized for the exhaust, intake, carb correctly with as little restriction from bends as you can get will let the turbo spin up much sooner to benefit the motors happy place. IMO the cost would be in a cam with lift & timing made for the boosted idea. Just thoughts. A 6 into 1 turbo flange will be fun to make. Thats 3 1.5" pipes, 2 rows, so a rough estimate is a flange of 4.75" x 3.25" minimum, you will probably have to make an adapter to the turbo flange on that side too. OR 2 turbo's which lets you use the stock turbo flange cause 3 pipes will fit in alot of the smaller turbo's flange size. I guess my point is that if you use an up sized turbo to get a flange that easily collects your exhaust it may be too large a turbo.
 
Surely a good tune with good fuel on stock compression should work?

I will probably do a log manifold on mine as that what the factory would use and they work, plus they are simple and cheap. :) KISS
 
peesalot said:
There was a turbo'd 2f build a long time ago, cant remember if it was on here or on pirate, I'll see if I can dig it up. didn't Mace turbo a 2f ?
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Yes. Mace did one but is running propane.
 
Lowering compression as a safety for boost is a thought process that is like 35 years out of date from before there were good sensors or timing control.

15-20lbs of boost alone isn’t going to hurt your engine. 15-20lbs of boost without any timing or fuel control will hurt parts. I’m guessing you were planning on using a stock distributor in this too right?
 
cruisermatt said:
Lowering compression as a safety for boost is a thought process that is like 35 years out of date from before there were good sensors or timing control.

15-20lbs of boost alone isn’t going to hurt your engine. 15-20lbs of boost without any timing or fuel control will hurt parts. I’m guessing you were planning on using a stock distributor in this too right?
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That is open for discussion but stock or stick with pertronix is what I had considered. Maybe FJ60 as I have one.
I know folks with way more knowledge of this than I may think this is dumb to spend any money on but I just want to see what happens.
I need to get the long block built and then start figuring out which turbo based on which direction I want to go and then plumbing with ignition beong sort of tertiary.

These engines are all 35 years old so using old tech is fine to me.

Missed you at GSMTR this year.
 
It’s not a question of old tech, a Pertronix is just a pickup. It doesn’t give you any sort of control over the actual timing curve.
You need to retard ignition timing as manifold pressure (boost) increases.

If you want to safely make enough boost to actually make some real power gains anyways. The bigger question is, do you have an actual quantifiable goal here?
 
cruisermatt said:
It’s not a question of old tech, a Pertronix is just a pickup. It doesn’t give you any sort of control over the actual timing curve.
You need to retard ignition timing as manifold pressure (boost) increases.

If you want to safely make enough boost to actually make some real power gains anyways. The bigger question is, do you have an actual quantifiable goal here?
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Nope.
But I do wanna have a little fun and learn some stuff.
 
Dump one or two of these in your tank when you fill it up.

IMG_3507.webp
 
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