2f running like sht, backfiring

[yomumsbum]

Hey there i made a thread a few weeks ago i have a 1979 fj45 2f Australian. The car was running absolutely beautifully until one day i start her up let the choke off and it would die. I replaced the inline fuel filter and it ran sweet for a day and then it happened again. So it sat for a week or 2 i see if it starts after sitting for a while it does until i drive it down the road it starts sputtering at low rps. So i installed a bigger inline filter with a water catcher its for an outboard. Now it runs like absolute s*** and wont idle it will backfire constantly, die and stink. I replaced spark plugs too i just took one out, the top part of the plug was white but everything else looked new.
My fuel cutoff solenoid was clicking with the key in on position, now all of a sudden its not clicking, only clicking when i give it 12v with a bit of wire (1 wire going into solenoid)
Ive checked the fuel pump it gives off nice big bursts of fuel.
Ive put on a brand new carby still the same.
What could of happened?
The first photo here is some vaccum switch that has been disconnected since ive had a the car, it went into the intake manifold and a diaphram on the carby but my new carbs dont have the diaphram so ive blocked it off, it isnt wired up and just goes into a charcoal canister.
Last picture is my cut off solenoid connection

 

[mattressking]

If you connect the solenoid to +12v source on coil or even direct to battery to test, will the truck run smooth again?

I need to make a test thread if your truck runs like s*** because I feel like I post these questions three times a week.

1. Let us know how truck runs once you give the solenoid +12v and if running is any better.
2. Is fuel in middle of sight glass? Better yet, can you see the fuel line halfway in the carb sight glass?
3. Since you say it started to really run rough after you added that inline hunk of junk for fuel, I recommend removing it and confirming you have quality fuel flow, OR supply clean source of fuel to carb.
4. If the truck started running rough after you did some work.....always work backward from that point. These trucks run forever if you set them up back to factory specifcations and fuel system is clean.

 

[yomumsbum]

If you connect the solenoid to +12v source on coil or even direct to battery to test, will the truck run smooth again?

I need to make a test thread if your truck runs like s*** because I feel like I post these questions three times a week.

1. Let us know how truck runs once you give the solenoid +12v and if running is any better.
2. Is fuel in middle of sight glass? Better yet, can you see the fuel line halfway in the carb sight glass?
3. Since you say it started to really run rough after you added that inline hunk of junk for fuel, I recommend removing it and confirming you have quality fuel flow, OR supply clean source of fuel to carb.
4. If the truck started running rough after you did some work.....always work backward from that point. These trucks run forever if you set them up back to factory specifcations and fuel system is clean.

thanks for your reply, i did try to run the car with 12v to the solenoid it didnt make a difference.
2 yeah the fuel level is in the middle of the bowl
3 yeah the new filter is quite a bit bigger i will replace it again and see if it makes a difference

 

[mattressking]

1. Does using choke help the truck run better?
2. What was the course of events that led up to rough running? Carb change, spark plug change, etc?
3. Have you done a lean drop using the correct screws on carb? If so how did you do it?
4. Solenoid you're mentioning won't affect running as it isn't connected at all.
5. There could be a vacuum leak, but again it's hard to tell if the truck won't run well or idle currently.
6. Confirm all six spark plugs are firing a strong spark.
7. If you confirmed another carb leads to the same exact issue, then usually points to a spark, timing, electrical issue.
8. Confirm truck idles with 12.6 + volts and voltage raises when idle raises.
9. New spark plugs were mentioned - what did you use, what gap did you set?

Unrelated: Thanks for the pics, your truck is the first one I could clearly see the air cleaner support bracket to the manifiold....I've been hunting for one for ages.

 

[igotta40]

Your problem sounds vaguely familiar, especially the backfiring. Look at your ignition points, they may be burnt and/or improperly gapped.

 

[yomumsbum]

1. Does using choke help the truck run better?
2. What was the course of events that led up to rough running? Carb change, spark plug change, etc?
3. Have you done a lean drop using the correct screws on carb? If so how did you do it?
4. Solenoid you're mentioning won't affect running as it isn't connected at all.
5. There could be a vacuum leak, but again it's hard to tell if the truck won't run well or idle currently.
6. Confirm all six spark plugs are firing a strong spark.
7. If you confirmed another carb leads to the same exact issue, then usually points to a spark, timing, electrical issue.
8. Confirm truck idles with 12.6 + volts and voltage raises when idle raises.
9. New spark plugs were mentioned - what did you use, what gap did you set?

Unrelated: Thanks for the pics, your truck is the first one I could clearly see the air cleaner support bracket to the manifiold....I've been hunting for one for ages.

1:yes when choke is all the way out, very high idle speed though
2: just the spark plugs and the filter.
3.I have not done a lean drop. im not sure what that is.
6:will have to check tomorrow
8:yes
9:ngk spark plugs i just check the gaps of the old and new ones they are about the same the new ones are 0.9mm and the old ones are 0.85mm

 

[Texascruisin]

On my 79 iv had trouble with my fuse panel. It ran terrible out no where. Wouldn’t idle without the choke pulled. I gently cleaned the fuse holders with a wire brush and pushed the fuse clamps a little closer together for a tighter hold on the fuse and she went right back to normal. Just an idea.

 

[yomumsbum]

1. Does using choke help the truck run better?
2. What was the course of events that led up to rough running? Carb change, spark plug change, etc?
3. Have you done a lean drop using the correct screws on carb? If so how did you do it?
4. Solenoid you're mentioning won't affect running as it isn't connected at all.
5. There could be a vacuum leak, but again it's hard to tell if the truck won't run well or idle currently.
6. Confirm all six spark plugs are firing a strong spark.
7. If you confirmed another carb leads to the same exact issue, then usually points to a spark, timing, electrical issue.
8. Confirm truck idles with 12.6 + volts and voltage raises when idle raises.
9. New spark plugs were mentioned - what did you use, what gap did you set?

Unrelated: Thanks for the pics, your truck is the first one I could clearly see the air cleaner support bracket to the manifiold....I've been hunting for one for ages.

now this morning i checked all the gaps again and made sure the plugs were in snug.
I went back to a standard filter
I hooked up the cut off solenoid to the coil and cleaned the points on the coil they had a bit of rust
It ran a lot better today but it sort of ran away a few times the revs would sky rocket and i had to shut it off a few times
ran with the choke off when it got a bit warmer. then on the last start up i gave it a rev with the choke off and i got a big backfire then it ran away on me again

 

[yomumsbum]

have checked and made sure the throttle linkage is not sticking and neither is the gas pedal

 

[yomumsbum]

1. Does using choke help the truck run better?
2. What was the course of events that led up to rough running? Carb change, spark plug change, etc?
3. Have you done a lean drop using the correct screws on carb? If so how did you do it?
4. Solenoid you're mentioning won't affect running as it isn't connected at all.
5. There could be a vacuum leak, but again it's hard to tell if the truck won't run well or idle currently.
6. Confirm all six spark plugs are firing a strong spark.
7. If you confirmed another carb leads to the same exact issue, then usually points to a spark, timing, electrical issue.
8. Confirm truck idles with 12.6 + volts and voltage raises when idle raises.
9. New spark plugs were mentioned - what did you use, what gap did you set?

Unrelated: Thanks for the pics, your truck is the first one I could clearly see the air cleaner support bracket to the manifiold....I've been hunting for one for ages.

Your problem sounds vaguely familiar, especially the backfiring. Look at your ignition points, they may be burnt and/or improperly gapped.

another thing i also welded a crack in the exhaust before this started to but the battery was disconnected
and is it normal to see bubbles and movement in the sight glass while its running
my plugs are also black and oily

 

[yomumsbum]

and now the choke isnt making a difference, this is driving me crazy

 

[majdomo]

Not really normal to see activity in that sight glass when it's running, as far as I know. This sort of sounds like you're getting a bunch more fuel in the system than it's able to handle, like a missing / loose jet, needle valve is shot, maybe both? Fuel pump new or different?

 

[yomumsbum]

Not really normal to see activity in that sight glass when it's running, as far as I know. This sort of sounds like you're getting a bunch more fuel in the system than it's able to handle, like a missing / loose jet, needle valve is shot, maybe both? Fuel pump new or different?

i got it idling sweet and revving sweet today,no movement in sight glass. Until it warmed up, then the problem persisted

 

[sodafeld1]

don't know your engine but does it have a distributor?, sometimes the dizzy points burn out and cause backfiring. sorry if dumb suggestion

 

[yomumsbum]

don't know your engine but does it have a distributor?, sometimes the dizzy points burn out and cause backfiring. sorry if dumb suggestion

not dumb at all ill take whatever suggestions i can get though at this point. i was thinking dizzy or ignition timing but its only playing up once the engine is worn

 

[sodafeld1]

had nasty backfires on an old merc, ignition coil and rotor in the dizzy caused the bangs. the rotor was a cheap part, ignition coil a bit more money. rotor first, inspect.
big diff diesel to petrol. can disconnect old diesels from battery once running, but petrol needs the constant spark from battery, ignition coil, dizzy , leads and plugs all need to be healthy as they are used constantly. from the little i know.

Rotor in dizzy gets quite a workout

 

[1969FJ]

The thing is probably the distributer. You can check it static, (stopped), but if the shaft is worn turning at speed will allow points to change opening .

 

[yomumsbum]

Update. the ajusted the timing, it was quite a bit out, it idles and revs nicely now and the coil isnt getting so hot.
however i tried to take it down the road and as soon as its under any load it bogs down and sputters not driveable.
but atleast it idles

 

[sodafeld1]

old fuel?

 

[yomumsbum]

old fuel?

only a few weeks old and new filter