2f oil pump prime

[syaich]

Color is from Napa's planet color line. It's called Midas gold. It's pretty neat paint due to the rubber flake included as part of the base. Easy to spray single stage enamel with fantastic durability and visual effect.

When I refer to "clock", I'm using a 4 degree shim where the spring and axle fasten together to increase the pitch of the output shaft.

 

[grant5127]

When I refer to "clock", I'm using a 4 degree shim where the spring and axle fasten together to increase the pitch of the output shaft.

So the shims were installed with the FAT end facing the rear in hopes to lift the pinion up to improve the drive line angle??...

Thats the target by the looks of it..........

So, whats your thoughts on the caster problem I'm seeing here....?

 

[Rocky_LC]

Your suspension looks a lot like this one - from a front spring flip.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/197150-front-spring-flip.html

 

[cjgoode]

So the shims were installed with the FAT end facing the rear in hopes to lift the pinion up to improve the drive line angle??...

Thats the target by the looks of it..........

So, whats your thoughts on the caster problem I'm seeing here....?

I agree, what do you mean by clock, did you use shims or something else. the whole axle was just made to rotate and fix the drive shaft angle your caster would be way off, and driving it could be a real adventure.

 

[Poser]

.... I had to clock the front end four degress to lessen the degree of angle on the driveshaft.

You will be back asking why your truck darts all over the road and will not track strait....






You installed your shim backwards...

 

[LXCRSR]

Rocky_LC and Mark W,

Thanks for the explanations! Gaining more and more knowledge thanks to you guys.

 

[syaich]

You will be back asking why your truck darts all over the road and will not track strait....






You installed your shim backwards...

My current set up is with the fat end of the shim facing the drive shaft. Are you saying this is incorrect? Thanks again for you help.

I've had the tracking issue in the back of my mind since I installed the shims. My plan is to see how it tracks and if it has an insane death wobble, I was going to remove the shims and install a CV style drive shaft front and rear to accomodate for the steep shaft angle. Thoughts?

 

[IDave]

My current set up is with the fat end of the shim facing the drive shaft.

 

[syaich]

I shimmed the front axle 4 degrees to avoid drive line angle concers with my new lift. A couple of posts above, someone mentioned that I might have the shims in backwards. I installed the shim with the "thick end" facing the drive shaft to increase angle of the output shaft on the axle.

 

[FF LC FREAK]

My current set up is with the fat end of the shim facing the drive shaft. Are you saying this is incorrect? Thanks again for you help.

I've had the tracking issue in the back of my mind since I installed the shims. My plan is to see how it tracks and if it has an insane death wobble, I was going to remove the shims and install a CV style drive shaft front and rear to accomodate for the steep shaft angle. Thoughts?

You have the shims pointing the wrong way. The way you have them will throw your castor angle out the window. Have you ever tried to ride a bicycle with the handle bars pointed 180* off? That's what your rig will handle like. You need the fat end of the shims pointed towards the shackle. This will point your pinion down, but keep your castor correct. Besides, you want your pinion parallel *(i.e. in the same plane) to your t/c output. If you switch to a CV style driveshaft, then you want your pinion pointing directly at your t/c output.

Also, it looks to me like you have your front springs flipped. It increases your wheel base by a few inches. Stock installation had the long end of the spring towards the front which puts the wheel farther back.

 

[Rocky_LC]

I have heard (in researching "front spring flip") that when the springs are flipped, it can eliminate the need for the caster correction shims.

But a front spring flip typically requires:

- Extended Front Driveshaft
- Extended Front Brake Line (Frame to Axle)
- Shock Mods (Ford P/N E5TZ18183A) & Longer Shocks
- Trim of the Front Fenders..

FYI -

I'm trying to decide wether to do it on my rig. I flipped the springs around, and the steering works good, but these other items need to be addressed......

Rocky

 

[syaich]

I have completed the mods you have listed above other than trimming the front fenders. I have a 1.5 inch body lift so I'll wait to see if the fenders need trimmed. As it sits in the pic listed on page 1, it has 8 inches of clearance to the front of the fender from the wheel.

If you can wait two weeks, I'll let you know how it all works out. Nice looking rig by the way.

 

[jfz80]

For the 2-3F motors... Even easier... rip the end of an old oil filter open and take the guts out. Mount it on the engine and pour oil into it. Give it a while and it will seep into the bearings via the oil galleys and it will also prime the pump from the top. If you already have the distributor in, this avoids pulling it if you do not trust the pump to self prime.Mark...

COOL trick, just put it to use as I only have one good flatblade around here and wasnt ready to sacrifice or drive to harbour for a cheapy

 

[rghouse]

just curious why you have to cut the top off an oil filter...couldnt you just use a funnel if the idea is to pour oil into the filter opening?

getting close to priming a 2f that has sat for 15 years...

Also, can I just use 10w-40 or should I get a certain viscosity?