2F Oil Capacity: Are you filling less than 8 quarts?

[HKforte]

I have a new Toyota oil pan on my 2F engine ('78 FJ40 with oil cooler and stock oil filter) and it starts burning oil when I fill up the pan with more than 6.75 quarts. I was wondering how many of you fill your pans with less than the recommend quantity of oil? Why do you underfill the pan and what happens when you fill it up with 8 quarts? Also, with 6.75 quarts, my dipstick does not reach the full level, but only reaches the "Low" line on the stick. This underfilling of oil does not affect my oil pressure reading.

I was unable to find collective data on underfilled 2F engines with the search function. I just want to make sure I don't damage my engine.

Thank you.

 

[Ziffdaddy]

I don't know how much different the capacities are since you have the oil cooler, but my 74' F.5 (same oiling system otherwise) takes about 8 quarts with filter change, maybe more, I believe....

 

[RumBum]

My '82 takes a little over 8.

 

[71-CRUISER]

Underfilling an Engine will only damage it if it gets so low that the oil pickup isnt covered with oil. No Oil = Bad With 7 quarts however you are in no danger of that hapening unless you drive the truck at crazy angles.

The issue of your truck burning oil when filled to the FULL on the dipstick might be one worth looking at further.

 

[HKforte]

Thanks guys. Anyone else experiencing a similar issue?

 

[Jetboy]

The main issue I've heard of with over filling is that the crank will slosh the oil around and create bubbles/froth in the oil and may reduce lubrication. Additionaly it may be flinging oil up into the bores such that there is enough to pass by the rings into the combustion chamber. Just a thought. I wouldn't have an issue running a court low if that stops the oil burning provided that you still have good oil pressure.

 

[HKforte]

My compression numbers are good, both wet and dry. (very close to 155 across all 6 cylinders) I refilled my oil back to 8 quarts and the oil burning became very visible again.

I disconnected my pcv valve and hose and sealed it up so there is no vacuum leak. I just drove the rig about 10 miles and I do not see any visible smoke from the exhaust. However, I am not concluding that this is my problem. 10 miles of driving doesn't mean anything to me. I know my oil will get dirty fast if I keep running the rig like this. Maybe a catch can is necessary? Is that a good idea?

Still, I feel like there is an issue with my rig that I am not understanding. I'm running 15W-40. It can't possibly be producing that much blowby to burn white/blue the way it was burning. Can it? It seems like the pcv is sucking in straight oil when the oil is being sloshed around in the crankcase. When I disconnected the pcv valve from the grommet, there was oil on it, and it was frothy and white. Why would the oil change its texture that way? any ideas? (I am not losing water from my radiator, so I doubt I have a head gasket issue)

My vacuum is currently pulling at 21 in.-Hg. It used to be pulling at 18 in.-Hg, but increased as I fixed all the vacuum leaks I could find. Could this increase in vacuum result in the sucking of more oil through the PCV system to the intake manifold?

How should I proceed in addressing this issue? Thanks!

 

[andrewfarmer]

Replace the pcv valve - it may be faulty

 

[HKforte]

I just drove the vehicle another 10 miles. So 20 miles of driving and I cannot see any sign of oil burning any more. Even when I stop the vehicle and rev it real high. That's the instance where I used to see most of my smoke. Oil burning odor has also disappeared.

I still have the PCV valve disconnected. I have one new OEM PCV valve and 2 new aftermarket ones. I've tried them all and none of them seem to stop the oil burning. I've also ensured that my PCV hose is solid and does not collapse under heat and vacuum.

 

[Trollhole]

Post some pics of your engine compartment.

 

[Spud]

With a 77' 40, I am at full line with 8qts. No burn issues.