2f Carb Tuning - Timing - and Vacuum Routing for Desmog (2 Viewers)

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What could cause you to loose timing?
The bolt holding the distributor down needs to be tightened pretty well to keep the distributor form rotating. It's hard to do without a distributor wrench, like this:

 
Distributor not clamped down enough? Can the distributor be turned by hand with clamp tightened? Have you checked, lubed the centrifugal advance bits?
 
Doesn't seem to be timing. I adjust it and it didn't help.
 
I like to use something that won't get gummy later. I last used a PB Blaster light lube with Teflon. Don't forget to oil the felt plug with engine oil.
 
On a normally running 2F with all the stock equipment on it, if the timing is advanced too far it will start fine and idle a bit faster but idle fine and ping/knock under load. The engine won't stall because of advanced timing, nor will it suddenly conk out or not start the next morning.

On that same engine, if the timing is more retarded than spec, the engine will start fine and idle fine but the idle rpm will be a bit slower. When driving it with retarded timing, the engine will feel gutless and you'll have a loss of power but it won't suddenly conk out or not start the next morning.

Bottom line : the timing of your engine is not what's making it run erratically - no matter how it's set
 
[QUOTE="OSS, post: 12519306, member:

Bottom line : the timing of your engine is not what's making it run erratically - no matter how it's set
[/QUOTE]

Thankyou sir.
 
Drove mine 5000 miles with no advance hooked up and timing set at 6. Valves were all loose and smog equipment was all there. Still started ok and drove pretty well too. Now I have desmogged. Vac advance working. Valves set it certainly drives nicer but it’s not as if it’s night and day in the power dept. just starts easier and less jerky.
 
I opened the ports up under the site glass on the carb today. Sprayed half a bottle of cleaner in the fuel bowl. Some small small black flakes came out and what looks like a piece of silicone. It was larger and soft when I squeezed it. I dropped it when reaching for my phone.
After doing this my surging and hesitating went away. (For now, hopefully for good)
Very excited. Drove it to fill up, and around town just a little.
I don’t know how a brand new carb gets trash in it, but hopefully it’s all out.
 
I opened the ports up under the site glass on the carb today. Sprayed half a bottle of cleaner in the fuel bowl. Some small small black flakes came out and what looks like a piece of silicone. It was larger and soft when I squeezed it. I dropped it when reaching for my phone.
After doing this my surging and hesitating went away. (For now, hopefully for good)
Very excited. Drove it to fill up, and around town just a little.
I don’t know how a brand new carb gets trash in it, but hopefully it’s all out.
Gonna guess that material was from the fuel hoses. I’m glad it worked. Check out your fuel filter too. And maybe start working on replacing the soft fuel lines. Just buy a roll of 25’ and do a section at a time.
 
Gonna guess that material was from the fuel hoses. I’m glad it worked. Check out your fuel filter too. And maybe start working on replacing the soft fuel lines. Just buy a roll of 25’ and do a section at a time.

Fuel filter is new.
What kind of fuel line? Anything specific?
 
Fuel filter is new.
What kind of fuel line? Anything specific?
I’m not the one to ask specifics. I just know I bought a roll at one time of 25’. But you could look up in the fsm or just take a few pieces to a auto parts place and have them match it to stuff on the shelves.
I also meant look close at the filter, see if you can see any similar debris in it.
 
Felicity, you’re talking about the filter inside the carb, right? Not necessarily the filter near the passenger firewall...
 
If you are doing new hose be sure to get something that’s rated for ethanol. There is a clear reinforced fuel hose available that can be nice to use as you can see through it enough to tell if it’s flowing and is clean. It’s good for low pressure applications and just have to confirm it’s rated for ethanol in todays fuels.

You might find this article useful.

Stuff like this but need to check if it’s good for use with ethanol

 
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If you are doing new hose be sure to get something that’s rated for ethanol. There is a clear reinforced fuel hose available that can be nice to use as you can see through it enough to tell if it’s flowing and is clean. It’s good for low pressure applications and just have to confirm it’s rated for ethanol in todays fuels.

You might find this article useful.

Stuff like this but need to check if it’s good for use with ethanol


Wow who would have known some much info on fuel hose was needed. ;)
 
Wow who would have known some much info on fuel hose was needed. ;)

Before we started this “add ethanol to fuel” nonsense you could be dumb as a pile of rocks when buying fuel line. Now you need to be edjemicated or risk gumming up the important bits.
 
Hello Jim! One more member of the group IH8M greets you, I have read many threads about you in the forum, so I think that you, like an expert can help me with some doubts that I have.
I have an FJ40 American model, but I do not know if it is California or federal version; my father have a plate that say under federal norms so my question is: Is it federal version? How can identify it?
This car have been desmogged, but I do not know if all this reparations has been correct, the valve EGR and the bomb air was removed and it does not have BSV valve, and I have to replace the original housing of water because I couldn’t find the same model. Also I realized that my car has the system HAC and the distributor has double advance.
Given this little explanation, I want some advice from you:
That you recommend me which is the carburetor repair kit that applies to this model.
How to repair the advances of the distributor.
The HAC system connection that applies to a desmogged car.
Thanks in advance.
 
Hello Jim! One more member of the group IH8M greets you, I have read many threads about you in the forum, so I think that you, like an expert can help me with some doubts that I have.
I have an FJ40 American model, but I do not know if it is California or federal version; my father have a plate that say under federal norms so my question is: Is it federal version? How can identify it?
This car have been desmogged, but I do not know if all this reparations has been correct, the valve EGR and the bomb air was removed and it does not have BSV valve, and I have to replace the original housing of water because I couldn’t find the same model. Also I realized that my car has the system HAC and the distributor has double advance.
Given this little explanation, I want some advice from you:
That you recommend me which is the carburetor repair kit that applies to this model.
How to repair the advances of the distributor.
The HAC system connection that applies to a desmogged car.
Thanks in advance.
 
some eye candy on the fuel and evap system TECH too



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2F AIR Cleaner BOX Clamps are NOW Available :




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