275/65r20 on stock rim
- Thread starter mike552
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Oof- that's a big size. I'm going to guess that it would rub somewhere, though not sure if it would be all plastic. You also may need spacers, which introduce another set of application specific or safety considerations. @Markuson @TeCKis300 any thoughts for this Mudder?
May want to check the wheel and tire size database in the interim.
Whats the wheel offset? you might need to ditch the front mud flaps.
Off-topic- have you used Michelin Defenders in the dunes? I'm thinking about 275/70/17 on braid's for dune setup. Thoughts? The michelin's seem to be getting more and more popular in GCC now.
That's a 275/65R20 at the left next to my full fat 35x12.5R20s. It doesn't look like it but they do differ in size at 34.1"x11" to 34.5"x12.5" respectively.
There's a good chance it'll drop right in with minimal mods. Key is offset as the fitment is pretty sensitive at these sizes. Just enough offset to clear all the suspension arms, yet not so much that it makes the steering swing too wide creating clearance issues at the forward and trailing edge of the wheel well. A 1" spacer with stock wheels (-35mm offset) will clear all arms in my experience for a narrow tire. I'm finding my wider tire will need a tad more offset so I'm switching to a 1.25" spacer. The 1" spacer will also make just about perfect scrub radius suspention geometry.
Then it's just a matter of pulling the forward edge of the fender liner up about 1.75" which is cake. Then remove the mud flap and perhaps cut a bit of the inner edge of the side step. I think that's it and you should be just fine or perhaps very minimal situational rub against the body mount.
Lastly, I have the 275 for a spare, so it'll fit there just fine.
Refer to this thread for more details:
forum.ih8mud.com
There's a good chance it'll drop right in with minimal mods. Key is offset as the fitment is pretty sensitive at these sizes. Just enough offset to clear all the suspension arms, yet not so much that it makes the steering swing too wide creating clearance issues at the forward and trailing edge of the wheel well. A 1" spacer with stock wheels (-35mm offset) will clear all arms in my experience for a narrow tire. I'm finding my wider tire will need a tad more offset so I'm switching to a 1.25" spacer. The 1" spacer will also make just about perfect scrub radius suspention geometry.
Then it's just a matter of pulling the forward edge of the fender liner up about 1.75" which is cake. Then remove the mud flap and perhaps cut a bit of the inner edge of the side step. I think that's it and you should be just fine or perhaps very minimal situational rub against the body mount.
Lastly, I have the 275 for a spare, so it'll fit there just fine.
Refer to this thread for more details:
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX
Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...
forum.ih8mud.com
I don’t know your answer but this may interest you:
Perfect off-highway tire = LTX? What?
The off-highway tire debate is over, and I’m embarrassed. The winner has been anointed. Sans oil. The inevitable my-tire-is-better threads may now cease. Allow me to proclaim: I've found the tire and they are the prosaic LTXen. Or, rather the Michelin Defender LTX M/S as officially called...
expeditionportal.com
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- Thread starter
- #8
Guys, thank you for your enthusiastic responses. Wow, next to the 35” it doesnt seem much narrower or shorter.
My goal was to go with 275/60r20 but I can’t find a good tire in that size that has 18/32 of tread or more. It seems like all the good tires in this size are 13/32.
Anybody know of a good tire with more meat in that size?
My goal was to go with 275/60r20 but I can’t find a good tire in that size that has 18/32 of tread or more. It seems like all the good tires in this size are 13/32.
Anybody know of a good tire with more meat in that size?
That's a 275/65R20 at the left next to my full fat 35x12.5R20s. It doesn't look like it but they do differ in size at 34.1"x11" to 34.5"x12.5" respectively.
View attachment 2464103
There's a good chance it'll drop right in with minimal mods. Key is offset as the fitment is pretty sensitive at these sizes. Just enough offset to clear all the suspension arms, yet not so much that it makes the steering swing too wide creating clearance issues at the forward and trailing edge of the wheel well. A 1" spacer with stock wheels (-35mm offset) will clear all arms in my experience for a narrow tire. I'm finding my wider tire will need a tad more offset so I'm switching to a 1.25" spacer. The 1" spacer will also make just about perfect scrub radius suspention geometry.
Then it's just a matter of pulling the forward edge of the fender liner up about 1.75" which is cake. Then remove the mud flap and perhaps cut a bit of the inner edge of the side step. I think that's it and you should be just fine or perhaps very minimal situational rub against the body mount.
Lastly, I have the 275 for a spare, so it'll fit there just fine.
Refer to this thread for more details:
[/QUOTEFitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX
Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...
That's a 275/65R20 at the left next to my full fat 35x12.5R20s. It doesn't look like it but they do differ in size at 34.1"x11" to 34.5"x12.5" respectively.
View attachment 2464103
There's a good chance it'll drop right in with minimal mods. Key is offset as the fitment is pretty sensitive at these sizes. Just enough offset to clear all the suspension arms, yet not so much that it makes the steering swing too wide creating clearance issues at the forward and trailing edge of the wheel well. A 1" spacer with stock wheels (-35mm offset) will clear all arms in my experience for a narrow tire. I'm finding my wider tire will need a tad more offset so I'm switching to a 1.25" spacer. The 1" spacer will also make just about perfect scrub radius suspention geometry.
Then it's just a matter of pulling the forward edge of the fender liner up about 1.75" which is cake. Then remove the mud flap and perhaps cut a bit of the inner edge of the side step. I think that's it and you should be just fine or perhaps very minimal situational rub against the body mount.
Lastly, I have the 275 for a spare, so it'll fit there just fine.
Refer to this thread for more details:
Fitting Full Fat 35x12.5 on an LX
Join along as I work through making the necessary clearance mods for 35x12.5R20s tires on my LX. These Toyo AT3s spec out to be 34.5" x 12.5". If you have any suggestions, I'm interested in hearing. Note that this fitment is specific to the LX as it's easier to fit larger and wider tires...
In an AT tire, the Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws are going to have the deepest tread in the competitive set. Up to 20mm in the more aggressive sizes, but still 18mm in the size you're proposing. Highly recommended tire and met all my expectations.
The KO2s in that size worked perfect for me with no rubbing after I removed the mud flaps. More info here and lots more if you search the tire size on this forum:
forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com
Media - Official LX570s Picture Thread
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - mcgaskins' 2016 build thread - Ruby
As some of you may know, I had a 2014 that was built in the past, but I really liked the 2016 refresh and wanted to give the 8 speed a try to see if it worked better off road. Some pics of the 14: I found a decent deal on a 2016 in brandywine/terra in Minnesota and had it shipped to...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #11
Is that accurate?
I went onto simple tire’s website and they list the 275/60/20 as only having a 13/32 tread. In fact, I am seeing that with all of the tires in that size.
I'm measuring 10-12mm (at least 13/32) left on my Wildpeaks that I just replaced, and they already have ~30k miles on them. Yes, they were that deep when new. Some people criticize the weight, but they really do start with more rubber.
I'm somewhat disappointed in my new Toyo AT3s, as they don't start with quite the same depth.
I'm somewhat disappointed in my new Toyo AT3s, as they don't start with quite the same depth.
- Thread starter
- #13
Thanks for your help on this. I really want to buy this tire but what you’re saying doesn’t add up to the specs I am seeing online. 18mm is the equivalent of 22/32, which is amazing but I just don’s see that anywhere. Not even close.
- Thread starter
- #14
I wonder if they changed the Wildpeaks since you last bought them.
- Thread starter
- #15
The KO2s in that size worked perfect for me with no rubbing after I removed the mud flaps. More info here and lots more if you search the tire size on this forum:
Media - Official LX570s Picture Thread
Builds - mcgaskins' 2016 build thread - Ruby
As some of you may know, I had a 2014 that was built in the past, but I really liked the 2016 refresh and wanted to give the 8 speed a try to see if it worked better off road. Some pics of the 14: I found a decent deal on a 2016 in brandywine/terra in Minnesota and had it shipped to...
Wow, the tire is sitting amazingly close to the spring seat. I could live with thst but now I have to figure out if my 2013+ wheels have the same offset as your 2011- wheels.
It depends on tire size/type. Smaller P-metric sizes show tread depth starting at 12mm. All the way into the more extreme LT and Floatation tires that go up to 20mm. The tire in my picture is a LT305/55R20 that starts at 19mm tread depth. Your proposed LT275/65R20 shows starting at 18mm.
2015 and 2011 LXs have the same stock wheel offset of 60mm. You'll want spacers for two reasons - suspension arm clearance and correct suspension geometry. The tightest position will be full compression and full steering lock, where the tire will just rub on the upper UCAs.
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Theres been discussions in forums where there was a change over on the Falkens like a year ago, and the compound is different and cheaper than the original.
I'd suggest looking at the Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac. They come in both 275/65 and 285/60 which are very similar in size. The tires are all weather rated, so the rubber is fairly soft and the wear will be a bit quicker than the others, but they are quiet and very good in all conditions. Mud being the exception.
- Thread starter
- #19
Thanks for all the responses. I was attempting to find the “narrowest” 275/65/20 tire with at least an A/T rating and it seems that it would be the Sumitomo Encounter AT at 10.9” section width.
I am torn now, because while I have used spacers on various vehicles in the past with absolutely no issue, I am thinking I may want to put the spacer money into a set of 18” wheels with the correct offset (~et25) and not have to worry about them. The price for a halfway decent set of 18” wheels is around $800. If I went for a 275/70/18 I would be breaking even because tires in that size are significantly cheaper, but that means I am “only” getting a 33” size.
Really torn here.
I am torn now, because while I have used spacers on various vehicles in the past with absolutely no issue, I am thinking I may want to put the spacer money into a set of 18” wheels with the correct offset (~et25) and not have to worry about them. The price for a halfway decent set of 18” wheels is around $800. If I went for a 275/70/18 I would be breaking even because tires in that size are significantly cheaper, but that means I am “only” getting a 33” size.
Really torn here.
Take a deep breath. Sit down and write exactly what you want. Then go get that. Tires and wheels last a long time, so I think you should do what you want.
I’ve been saving for my ultimate set for a year and probably have two years to go. Until then I got the cheapest wheels I could find (oem 18” tundra $50 or less each) and am running generic hub centric 1” spacers. Put on $200 each skinny 35” AT. It’s all fine and a huge improvement on stock, but not the bead lock 17” MT master plan ($700 corner).
I’ve been saving for my ultimate set for a year and probably have two years to go. Until then I got the cheapest wheels I could find (oem 18” tundra $50 or less each) and am running generic hub centric 1” spacers. Put on $200 each skinny 35” AT. It’s all fine and a huge improvement on stock, but not the bead lock 17” MT master plan ($700 corner).
