Cruiser_Nerd said:
Is one any better than the other?
25 Master Cylinders
- Thread starter FJnotCJ
- Start date
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Is one any better than the other?
I would guess that stainless would last longer as it is generally harder than brass. But the it depends on which alloys of each metal they are using. So in that case the answer is better than the cylinders you have now. 
Nick
Nick
zebrabeefj40 said:
You got that right.
White Post uses brass with lifetime warranty.
Master Cylinder Leaking again (3rd one)
Hey everyone,
Saw all these post and wsa wondering if anyone has any good ideas for my 1962 FJ40?
I have yet again had another brake master cylinder start leaking from the seal on the inside of the of the cab. This is the 3rd on that has done this. And Yes, I have bench bled all of them. My rig is sitting right now awaiting me to finish up the paint & body work so it's not driven at all. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep this from leaking? It seems to be ok for the first month or so, but after that it slowly starts to leak, i'm guessing from the heat and sitting. I would like to have a sprayed in bedliner done soon, but with this leak i'm affriad that it will cause problems with the bedliner.
Any ideas?
Robert
Hey everyone,
Saw all these post and wsa wondering if anyone has any good ideas for my 1962 FJ40?
I have yet again had another brake master cylinder start leaking from the seal on the inside of the of the cab. This is the 3rd on that has done this. And Yes, I have bench bled all of them. My rig is sitting right now awaiting me to finish up the paint & body work so it's not driven at all. Does anyone have any ideas on how to keep this from leaking? It seems to be ok for the first month or so, but after that it slowly starts to leak, i'm guessing from the heat and sitting. I would like to have a sprayed in bedliner done soon, but with this leak i'm affriad that it will cause problems with the bedliner.
Any ideas?
Robert
Well, I'm back from my journey out West, and I was having severe withdrawal symptoms of not being able to access the FJ25 forum here on MUD!! 
I jumped right back into my 25's brake situation, but appear to have solved the problems . . . I hope.
Until I have the time and money to get my stock wheel cylinders (and master cylinder) re-sleeved, I ended up going with the wheel cylinders for the rear drums of a 1982 FJ40 from Discount Auto Parts ($16 each). And as previoulsy mentioned, I had already installed the Asain single circuit MC.
With the exception of some VERY slight egging-out of the bolt mounting holes for the wheel cylinder, it's virtually an identical unit to the FJ25 OEMs. (I can't even tell the difference by looking at them. I'll post some pics when I get some.)
I used the pistons and springs from the original cylinders, and of course, replaced the 1" rubber cups with brand new ones. Perfect fit and function.
So far, nothing's locking up, great brakes, no leaks, no problems.
I'll keep you posted on the long-term function.
I jumped right back into my 25's brake situation, but appear to have solved the problems . . . I hope.
Until I have the time and money to get my stock wheel cylinders (and master cylinder) re-sleeved, I ended up going with the wheel cylinders for the rear drums of a 1982 FJ40 from Discount Auto Parts ($16 each). And as previoulsy mentioned, I had already installed the Asain single circuit MC.
With the exception of some VERY slight egging-out of the bolt mounting holes for the wheel cylinder, it's virtually an identical unit to the FJ25 OEMs. (I can't even tell the difference by looking at them. I'll post some pics when I get some.)
I used the pistons and springs from the original cylinders, and of course, replaced the 1" rubber cups with brand new ones. Perfect fit and function.
So far, nothing's locking up, great brakes, no leaks, no problems.
I'll keep you posted on the long-term function.
Sounds good, so the big hole diameter through the backing plate was the same?
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
So tell me Steve does this mean going not going to need the custom data plate after all. Brakes work/no work.
Glad your'e back, you were missed in the 25 forum though we might have to shut it down at one point.
John
Glad your'e back, you were missed in the 25 forum though we might have to shut it down at one point.
John
Archie 1962 FJ25
Autocrat
why would any one wants to shut this forum??? come on guy's I just finally got hooked up to this.
Last edited:
Cruiser_Nerd said:
Yep, perfect fit on the big hole diameter.
Living in the Past said:
Ah shucks, John. Only a fellow geezer could bring a tear to my eye like you do.
Hopefully I can scratch the "Brakes Don't Work" data plate from the dash for good. Gonna try a little road trip this weekend to see how they hold up. Then come home and pressure wash all that ruined paint off my frame and axles from the 35 gallons of brake fluid I had to go through to get here.
Hey Archie. Great sig line!! Couldn't have said it better myself.
Archie 1962 FJ25
Autocrat
Yep I think we all need attitude here. after all we all got something special and common in our personalities. and thats why we have fj25's. and remember all special things got attitude. "A GOOD ATTITUDE'
"SO WE ARE SPECIAL, WE DRIVE SOMETHING SPECIAL, THEREFORE OUR ATTITUDE IS SPECIAL"
"SO WE ARE SPECIAL, WE DRIVE SOMETHING SPECIAL, THEREFORE OUR ATTITUDE IS SPECIAL"
Living in the Past said:
I GIVE UP!!!!!!
oh brother... 
Archie 1962 FJ25
Autocrat
Mine are still working with no different end result then steve....!
Landcruisersteve said:I GIVE UP!!!!!!
Hang in there Steve! Keep it together.
Alright, after you calm down, give me a call. I'll bring my orange one down and trade you even for that maroonish one you have.
Cruiser_Nerd said:I'll bring my orange one down and trade you even for that maroonish one you have.
If the brakes work on that orange one, I'd almost be tempted at this point.
Landcruisersteve said:If the brakes work on that orange one, I'd almost be tempted at this point.
You'd have to change that plate to:
Brakes Locked - Brakes Frozen
But no problem stopping. Or leaking fluid!
Okay . . . I've calmed down a little bit and got most of the bullet holes bondo'd over (fortunately, my nice new seats didn't take any rounds).
The new Toyota single circuit master cylinder that I got from CruiserDan works like a charm (even though I'm wondering now if there was anything wrong with the OEM after all).
The four brand new wheel cylinders ('82 FJ40 rears) that replaced the leaky over-bored previous OEM units bolted in with hardly any mods and function flawlessly.
The pedal/piston push rod has been repeatedly adjusted to perfection (proper engagement point , freeplay, etc.).
All brake lines have been checked and blown out clean.
The entire system has been bled and the shoes (which have a decent 75% of life left of them) have been adjusted and readjusted dozens of times. Drum surfaces look pretty good, too.
However, once the entire system is set up perfectly and there's minimal adjustment drag on the drums, a one mile test drive always ends with the wheels locked up after the drive (either right away or after the truck has set there for about 30 minutes).
Then the adjustment cycle starts all over again and I'm back to where I started three months ago. Almost like the fluid is going to the wheel cylinders to expand the shoes, but not being allowed to return.
Thinking it might've been the shoe return springs (which seem to be strong enough already), I even tried adding a secondary hole on one of the shoes for substantially more tension on the spring. Still didn't solve the problem.
The new Toyota single circuit master cylinder that I got from CruiserDan works like a charm (even though I'm wondering now if there was anything wrong with the OEM after all).
The four brand new wheel cylinders ('82 FJ40 rears) that replaced the leaky over-bored previous OEM units bolted in with hardly any mods and function flawlessly.
The pedal/piston push rod has been repeatedly adjusted to perfection (proper engagement point , freeplay, etc.).
All brake lines have been checked and blown out clean.
The entire system has been bled and the shoes (which have a decent 75% of life left of them) have been adjusted and readjusted dozens of times. Drum surfaces look pretty good, too.
However, once the entire system is set up perfectly and there's minimal adjustment drag on the drums, a one mile test drive always ends with the wheels locked up after the drive (either right away or after the truck has set there for about 30 minutes).
Then the adjustment cycle starts all over again and I'm back to where I started three months ago. Almost like the fluid is going to the wheel cylinders to expand the shoes, but not being allowed to return.
Thinking it might've been the shoe return springs (which seem to be strong enough already), I even tried adding a secondary hole on one of the shoes for substantially more tension on the spring. Still didn't solve the problem.
