22 year old radiator

[Kaninja]

Thanks for the information. This is new to me. Never had a cruiser radiator that was plastic. Seems weird.

Just got a '95 that has 325K on it that runs excellent. Don't want to start replacing all the old parts though. I think I'll just give it a visual inspection and go from there.

You don't have to replace ALL the old parts. However, if the rad is original as well as the hoses, heater valve, etc, then replacing them now before they fail can sure be a lot more convenient than waiting until you are somewhere that you find yourself saying in your head "why in the #&*! didn't I do this before".

IMO the aluminum radiators with plastic end tanks are really a great design....which is why there are so many 20-23 year old ones still in operation.

 

[Tools R Us]

That being said, mine was still black when it blew.

Mine was due to crappy belts, no idler pulley, and a radiator cap that was fillled with gunk due to the PO mixing red and green coolant.

WOT coming onto interstate, belts broke, wrapped around water pump and stopped it, temperature spiked, couldn't relieve fast enough, and BOOM! It felt and sounded like a tire blew out.

So, you caused it by lack of maintenance and allowing it to overheat when the belt(s) broke?

 

[Tools R Us]

... Here in SoCal, it keeps things at a rock solid 185* regardless of ambient temp or driving condition.

I'm calling BS, or there is something wrong with the system.

 

[SteamerF18]

I'm calling BS, or there is something wrong with the system.

If the gauge only goes to 185*, you could both be correct.

 

[Tools R Us]

If the garage only goes to 185*, you could both be correct.

FIFY!

 

[midfat]

I'm calling BS, or there is something wrong with the system.

Well, I run an Ultragauge and the temps in my truck range from 183+/- on a cooler day to 189+/- on a hot day. It always settles on 185. I daily drive 80 miles in heavy stop and go traffic on the 405 here in LA. The warmest I’ve been able to get it on the road is high 190’s, and that was last August driving up Angeles Crest Highway in 100+ temps. It was a spirited drive. I haven’t done any hard rock crawling, so can’t speak to how the temps react in that environment. I’m running 4.88 gearing on 35s. Last summer, I overhauled the cooling system with new (early model) OEM brass radiator, new OEM water pump, all new hoses, new thermostat, block flush, red coolant, heater valve, and added a Wits End blue fan clutch. I try to run pretty light with factory bumpers, nothing on the roof and empty draws in the back.

Certainly not trying to start a flame war, but that’s where I am.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Certainly not trying to start a flame war, but that’s where I am.

No flame war, just facts. We work on a bunch of rigs and have many times heard that line, "rock solid 185* regardless of ambient temp or driving condition". Have to explain that is not how it works, but he said, with this rad it does it,,, nope.

Running at 190F ish is light/little load, any old partly clogged rad should do that. At light load, running in the bottom of the normal range, it's not well controlled, so will wander depending on speed, etc, pretty much irrelevant. The thermostat full open, bypass closed spec, is like 200F ish, so mostly or fully loaded is where the test is. When several rigs are running at high load levels, doing the same thing, at the same time, is when the difference in rad capacity is seen. Under sustained high load conditions, have never seen any copper rad that will keep up with any aluminum rad.

 

[midfat]

No flame war, just facts. We work on a bunch of rigs and have many times heard that line, "rock solid 185* regardless of ambient temp or driving condition". Have to explain that is not how it works, but he said, with this rad it does it,,, nope.

Running at 190F ish is light/little load, any old partly clogged rad should do that. At light load, running in the bottom of the normal range, it's not well controlled, so will wander depending on speed, etc, pretty much irrelevant. The thermostat full open, bypass closed spec, is like 200F ish, so mostly or fully loaded is where the test is. When several rigs are running at high load levels, doing the same thing, at the same time, is when the difference in rad capacity is seen. Under sustained high load conditions, have never seen any copper rad that will keep up with any aluminum rad.

First off, mad respect for your contributions here in Mud. Greatly valued. Seriously, thanks. Next, I don’t doubt any of what you’re saying. All makes sense. Before my radiator popped with 215k on all original stuff, my system worked adequately but really fluctuated when off road or at altitudes on long climbs (Eastern Sierras). Never pinned the factory temp gauge, but it definitely moved around. Since my cooling system overhaul, things have greatly stabilized. It’s been about 18 months since the overhaul. I haven’t really pushed my rig much since the work, so I’ll report back when I have more data.

My rationale for going old brass vs newer aluminum was based solely upon the potential of repair IF necessary. Figured it would be easier to solder a hole shut in a brass radiator than dealing with patching aluminum. Given both are proven and both are OEM, heavy won over light.

 

[REKCUT]

@Candy Man

 

[BILT4ME]

So, you caused it by lack of maintenance and allowing it to overheat when the belt(s) broke?

Can't believe I never replied to this.........

Yeah, I had not been through my complete baselining yet. I was making my lists and ordering parts when this happened.

So, when it did, I then did all my oil leaks, cooling system, front and rear axles, PS hoses, All fluid changes, brakes. It was like a new truck when I started it back up!

The PO had done very little maintenance on it and had mixed the coolant, even after having done the HG at 145K. It lives a MUCH cushier life now than it ever did before, at least from a maintenance standpoint.

 

[davidp14]

Mine (fzj80) blew up (literally) 1 mile from my house with my son driving a few weeks ago.
It was original with 176k miles. It was assumed to be cold weather related. I replaced with a tyc and also replaced the water pump and t-stat at the same time. O had already recently replaced the fan, clutch and belts. She runs great now.

We shall see about longevity of the tyc. It was cheap on Amazon and I got it overnight. Rest of the stuff was oem.

 

[rc51kid]

Go oem and start buying parts. I would replace every part of the coolant system all at once. Hoses, water pump, thermostat, heater switch, and whatever else. Also do the oil pump cover gasket while the radiator is out. It will give you more room to work.

I feel the number one reason we see head gasket failures is coolant systems failing and trucks getting hot. Obvoiusly the big long aluminum head on a iron block is more likly to warp if over heated. So dont over heat it. Just my opinion.