- Thread starter
- #21
Yep, built mini's are fine. And you probably won't be the only one. Just remember the spare parts side of things. I can hook people up with like trucks before the run so you can coordinate as much as possible.
2018 Rubithon Wagon Run (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter MountNGoat
- Start date
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SFROMAN
SILVER Star
I was going to trailer my built mini but have decided that I really rather drive my LX450 to the event, enjoy it, then drive back. Something about that sounds very satisfying to me.
Thanks for the info on signing up. I kind of figured it was through registration if the event but was not sure and well, I just rather ask.
I’m getting very excited to finally be planning to do the rubicon. It’s many years in the making and really looking forward to the experience.
JohnnyOshow22
KK0TEQ
You're*
And we worked it out before that the technical distance from house to trail his was longer but my route getting there was longer the way I went.
I'm in. Been trying to keep my work from scheduling something I can't miss. As of now I'm planning on bringing the 4runner again rather than try to trailer the fj40 - which would mean no wagon run. After last year I have a good idea on what to expect, so I'll plan on running at a higher ride height. I'll add an extra inch or two of lift at both ends and probably go up a size taller for the tires.
My 5th Gen 4Runner has ATRAC, rear locker, crawl control, and active terrain. Does that work as a substitution for a front locker?
- Thread starter
- #26
Yep! @CreeperSleeper , talk to @Jetboy about you're setup and what to expect. He wheeled his last year, and as he stated above he's going to make changes to facilitate an easier time of it.
- Thread starter
- #27
Awesome, Justin, great to hear! I can imagine the difference a bit more lift and taller tires would make.
What are you planning on going to? I'm not sure what you had before...
I had 285/70/17 last year. They're basically 33x11x17ish. I've been talking with Toyo about buying them back. It's mostly been an issue on my end of not having time to go spend a day at the tire shop. I've been through 7 tires total now - and still have 2 that won't balance. One was 16 ounces out of balance and they couldn't balance it with weights close enough to get below about 2 ounces out of balance - which is still quite a bit out of balance. Toyo and discount tire have been good about trying to fix it. For whatever reason the AT 2's are problematic in that size.
I have another set of wheels and tires i use for daily driver duty. So it hasn't made it very high on my priority list yet.
So if I can swap them out to something else - I'm going to go for 285/75/17's. They're about 1 inch taller. Not a ton - but would probably help a bit.
I don't think tire size held me back very much last year. It was mostly an issue of belly and body clearance. The breakover angle was a consistent problem. I live in Utah so I try to keep the COG as low as possible because I spend most of my time around Moab. That's not ideal for the Rubicon. I have adjustable coilovers up front, so I'll set them an inch or two higher this year. I was way overweight last year so my 2.5ish lift was more like 1.5 inch at full weight. I'm going to run lighter.
For rear suspension I'm not totally sure yet. Last year i had stock coils in the back with 1.5" spacers and airbags. I'm currently using Dobinsons 2" coils for KDSS with no spacers - and I'll probably just use those plus the spacers for Rubithon depending on weight.
The goal is to be at a true 3" lift fully loaded. That would be around 2" higher than I was last year. I think that small change will make a huge difference. A lot more than tire size.
I would also say that you absolutely need full skids including the fuel tank, and some good sliders. If you don't have them - bumpout sliders are probably a good idea.
I used them a lot.
I'm probably going to change the outer hoop on mine to add a bumpout. Protecting the rear quarter panels was where I has most of my issues. I also have a rear bumper skid that got a good workout. The OEM bumper cover will get hammered.Finally, as odd as it may be - I may install a pair of wheel spacers at camp the night before in the rear only. The front is an issue with steering that they cause rub problems due to the scrub radius. But having the rear tires another inch or 1.5 inches offset will offer a lot of protection to the rear fenders. That's where I had the most risk of damage and is the hardest to protect. I didn't actually damage them - just some minor scratches where I barely touched the plastic of the fender flares. But the risk is high. - like really high - and I was often just lucky. So bumpout sliders and slightly wider tires are probably going to be the best defense against that damage. Unfortunately that's the most expensive panel to fix. Doors and front fenders are pretty cheap to replace if you happen to damage one. The rear quarter panel is the only one that you have to cut out to fix.
Hope that helps. It's harder than I had anticipated, but do-able in 5th gen with a good spotter and careful driving.
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workingdog
GOLD Star
Porter and I will be there - hopefully with me driving our FJ60 and (hopefully) Porter driving our FJ40. So, we will be looking for ride-alongs if anyone knows of anyone that wants the pleasure of stacking rocks.
- Thread starter
- #33
Super, glad to hear it! However, you might want to throw out some enticements in the food and drink department to find those who find ‘pleasure’ in rock stacking!!!
workingdog
GOLD Star
I'll install a vibrating passenger seat?
- Thread starter
- #35
I've been asked by a couple of people about what I'm referring to when I mention armor, particularly front and rear armor. I think everyone understands the importance of underbelly protection and sliders, but for the front and rear armor what I'm referring to is that you are set up such that you can drag your nose or rear end as required without worrying about it. Invariably someone will say "I don't care about those, they're plastic and cheap and easily replaced" but when they get to the trail they suddenly care a lot, which leads to WAY too much time stacking rocks to prevent damage. In a run by yourself where you've got all the time in the world that is completely fine. But in a run like this it means everyone being held up and getting into camp late - not good. There's also the potential to damage something else, like a brake line, if the bumper gets ripped off and shoved under the car. So, please make sure your trucks are set up accordingly.
@Jetboy Thank you so much for your detailed response! We have 285/70r17 Duratracs on the stock TE wheels (no spacers), Icon Stage 2 suspension set at 3" front/2" rear lift, stock skids, MetalTech front bumper, MetalTech rear bumper, and MetalTech sliders. Sounds like some good skidplates and some good spotters will be required if I have to take my 5th Gen. The goal is to have my 2nd Gen 4Runner ready and take that. It has a 3.4l swap, dual cases, tons, 40's, etc. I just am not sure what run to sign up for! I'm worried that I may be forced to take the 5th Gen.
JohnnyOshow22
KK0TEQ
If you can't get the 2nd gen ready then the Wagon Run for sure. We have the lowest slung rigs which means you'll be able to take a lot of the same lines and have support from people that just spotted a low rig. Also the other runs move fast so if you are forced to take the 5 gen you might hinder them but with us we will all be moving at the same pace making sure everyone is with us. @Jetboy Kara and I brought up the end of the group last year and it seemed to work really well since he was just about able to take my lines every where
Edit: Yes, get some decent STEEL skid plates. Aluminum ones will be ruined by the rubicon and they stick like glue to rocks
- Thread starter
- #38
News flash: Over on the main Rubithon 2018 page Chairman Eric is saying that registration might be up this weekend.
30th Annual Rubithon 2018
30th Annual Rubithon 2018
"Finally, as odd as it may be - I may install a pair of wheel spacers at camp the night before in the rear only. The front is an issue with steering that they cause rub problems due to the scrub radius. But having the rear tires another inch or 1.5 inches offset will offer a lot of protection to the rear fenders. That's where I had the most risk of damage and is the hardest to protect. I didn't actually damage them - just some minor scratches where I barely touched the plastic of the fender flares. But the risk is high. - like really high - and I was often just lucky. So bumpout sliders and slightly wider tires are probably going to be the best defense against that damage. Unfortunately that's the most expensive panel to fix. Doors and front fenders are pretty cheap to replace if you happen to damage one. The rear quarter panel is the only one that you have to cut out to fix."
J: Good points brought up on 'true 3" lift'....especially after airing down to 15PSI. Also, I happen to have a pair of 'near new' 1" Spidertrax spacers that U can adopt if they suit your needs
J: Good points brought up on 'true 3" lift'....especially after airing down to 15PSI. Also, I happen to have a pair of 'near new' 1" Spidertrax spacers that U can adopt if they suit your needs
Another epic Pryor Clan extravaganza!!
