2016+ OEM Rear Locker

[napir]

“Very brief reading” about something and then posting they’re better?

Cmon now bro…. This isn’t a 4Runner group

lol, not my claim, I'm just helping a brother out. I'm inclined to trust a Toyota factory locker with fresh new factory gears meant for a rest-of-world truck that dodges AC-130s for a living over just about any other option, personally.

 

[Boston Mangler]

lol, not my claim, I'm just helping a brother out. I'm inclined to trust a Toyota factory locker with fresh new factory gears meant for a rest-of-world truck that dodges AC-130s for a living over just about any other option, personally.

Ah, disregard, @hoser was the one making that claim. My bad

 

[bloc]

Is the KDSS bar spring steel like a sway bar, or is it cold steel?

I haven't ever read into this. I'd assume it's the same as whatever is used in sway bars around the world.. but if there are different standards I wouldn't know.

I've definitely run across the diff notching, very straightforward and that doesn't scare me away at all.
First I've heard of this, any threads covering this? I'm really really impressed with KDSS and would hate to lose it, but I'm game for doing something creative.

I vaguely recall reading that very minimal notching is needed for the 200-series version, though longer studs are. I *THINK* there isn't even any drilling. Though all of this is going on foggy memory of research I did when I got my rig many years ago.

In my very brief reading about the Eatons, it sounds like they are pretty instant, as opposed to the little dance you gotta do with the factory lockers. My only experience with lockers of any kind are with Toyota factory lockers (Taco, 4Runner, 80), so I don't know any different.

The Eaton actuator runs instantly, but often some amount of axle rotation is needed before it actually locks the two axles together. This is a function of the ramp & pin system of locking the diff. Additionally, if you need to reverse, it will unlock for some significant amount of rotation, then lock again.

Probably not an issue except on the most technical of situations, but it is in the "full disclosure" section of Eaton nuances.

The toyota locker is either engaged or it isn't.. though you do need to get the splines to align initially before full engagement. This will typically happen very quickly.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

There is a thread here on Mud somewhere that dives in on all this, I recall us hammering some of this out in the past.

It could be done using the 7x Series variant. The axle housing needs modified as discussed (this has been done a great deal on 4x/6x/7x/8x housings over the years), nothing crazy there. Clearance with KDSS could be mitigated. But they are not perfect lockers and have their issues (such as slow to engage/disengage and spline twisting)

Better yet (imo) would be to run the 22+ rear diff with the internal e-locker (not externally actuated) assuming the diff fits the 200 housing. We confirmed you can swap the factory 300/600/700 locker into a non-locked 300/600/700 but I’ve not tried to put one in a 200 yet. They are available in 3.307 & 4.30. 4.30 is perfect for many, particularly 08-15 w/6spd, but too deep for some.

Best yet (imo), use aftermarket. We run a great deal of ARB or Eaton locked 3.90 diffs in 16+ 200’s, excellent results.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I have considered adding a 4.3 Toyota locker diff. When ordered from IMPEX Japan it is very cheap compared to my local shop (in Canada). I've ordered a 4.3 (non-locking) diff for my 2013 LX from IMPEX previously, and after shipping and customs duties (in Canada) it was about half the price of the cheapest Toyota shop in Canada. The ordering process is a bit weird from IMPEX, and you don't know the exact shipping cost up front, but their prices can be really hard to beat!

I am now considering adding a rear locker, and the OEM option looks quite attractive as an LX owner. I'm not afraid of cutting a notch and adding longer studs. I believe the wiring has been addressed in many other Toyota vehicles with rear lockers and I think there are wiring kits available that might work on the 200 series.

All that said, I think that buying a Harrop/Eaton might be a decent route instead. I believe there are a few reports of failed Harrop/Eaton lockers and the Toyota diff looks like it uses a "fork" to engage the locker with the actuator, which seems robust.

 

[napir]

Yeah, once you get past the quirks of using Impex, it's a great parts source. Cost is certainly a consideration and what got me thinking about this. I figure best case I'm looking at $3k to add an Eaton to a used 3.9 third member, so the new factory locked third member and actuator being <$2000 shipped/tariffed becomes an appealing option to at least consider.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

Yeah, once you get past the quirks of using Impex, it's a great parts source. Cost is certainly a consideration and what got me thinking about this. I figure best case I'm looking at $3k to add an Eaton to a used 3.9 third member, so the new factory locked third member and actuator being <$2000 shipped/tariffed becomes an appealing option to at least consider.

I spent $944 USD on my 4.3 200 series diff (non-locking) and $320 USD to ship it to my door. Taxes cost me ~$50 USD. All in, the diff cost me $1311 USD. The locking version was about $1250 USD, so maybe $300 more. Plus you'd have to get wiring and switches. (I'm using an LX, so there won't be interference from a rear KDSS system).

Just the Harrop/Eaton locker will cost me $1350 USD, and will require a lot more time to assemble into my existing diff.

Tough call!