2016+ OEM Rear Locker

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May 25, 2010
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Has anyone explored the idea of putting a 70 series rear third member into a 2016+? I ask because I started reading about regearing 8 speeds and a common upgrade idea is to go to the 3.9 gears from the earlier trucks. So that got me sifting through parts diagrams and it seems the 70-series widely used a 32 spline 9.5" diff with 34.8mm shafts and 3.9 gears, same as the 2016+ US-spec 200. It looks like they had a few factory locker options as well.

The third member I came across is 41110-60B41, which seems to be widely available (there's even Chinese knockoffs) outside of the US, <$1000 on Impex brand new (before tariffs/shipping,etc). I love the idea of getting fresh 3.9 gears and a factory locker, then getting an earlier 3.9 front carrier to match. I understand KDSS is an issue with the actuator (can this be relocated in anymeaningful way?). Anything else I should be researching for this to make sense?
 
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Good luck with your project. Sounds like a creative solution.

With tarriffs on top of the prices you found, I doubt you'll get out of it low cost. Maybe cheap-er though.

I did Eatons and 3.91 from an earlier 200. Not cheap, but certainly less of a creative exercise than you're tackling.

Following...
 
Definitely not a project yet, just brainstorming. I'm planning to do a Tundra IFS swap first, but it got me thinking to 34s/35s and possible regearing and lockers and and and...

I think the only sticking point is figuring out the actuator and retaining KDSS, I feel like I've seen some actuator relocations on other trucks but coming up short in my Google-fu so far.

Another option might be going with a factory LSD rear third member w/ 3.91 gears, which also exists, I need to dig into how common those may be.
 
I think 41110-60B41 is a North American part. You might just be able to order it from your local dealer.

TO4111060B41.png
 
Oooooh

Would this possibly bolt into a 2010 LC?

Would obviously need to change gear ratio, but would it bolt in?

I know on the 80s and 100s one side had a different axle shaft for the collar to ride along.

I’m intrigued

Some yall older folks might remember Im the fella that retrofitted OEM elockers into everythannnng
 
@hoser it shows up as available here in Murica

They are definitely proud of it, doesn’t mention what ratio, or if it even has gears on it (doubt it) but…..

IMG_3782.webp
 
@bjowett is the toyota OEM e-locker cross reference guru
 
@bjowett is the toyota OEM e-locker cross reference guru

His reply here is either gonna take the wind out of my sails, or cost me a lot of money….

Asking for thoughts and prayers at this time
 
His reply here is either gonna take the wind out of my sails, or cost me a lot of money….

Asking for thoughts and prayers at this time
Not strictly trying to take the wind out of your sails, but you should look into the KDSS sway bar issue @napir mentioned.

Basically the stock electronic actuator won't clear your KDSS bar. So you either have to ditch the bar completely, switch to a US AHC bar which runs along the bottom of the axle, or convert to a manual actuator to maybe clear the KDSS part.. and even that hasn't been done much. I'm pretty sure someone in Africa built custom manual actuators for his e-lockers.. it was documented in this section a couple years ago probably. That thread had images that might give insight as to whether the KDSS bar can be retained.
 
Not strictly trying to take the wind out of your sails, but you should look into the KDSS sway bar issue @napir mentioned.

Basically the stock electronic actuator won't clear your KDSS bar. So you either have to ditch the bar completely, switch to a US AHC bar which runs along the bottom of the axle, or convert to a manual actuator to maybe clear the KDSS part.. and even that hasn't been done much. I'm pretty sure someone in Africa built custom manual actuators for his e-lockers.. it was documented in this section a couple years ago probably. That thread had images that might give insight as to whether the KDSS bar can be retained.

Thanks for the insight

Is the KDSS bar spring steel like a sway bar, or is it cold steel?

If this idea gains steam (which it might if KDSS bar is cold steel) I’m fortunate enough to live in the fabrication capital of the world and a decent amount of people owe me favors.
 
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For the 6 speeds, there's a bunch of 70-series 9.5 third members with 32 spline gears with different gearing options and lockers or LSDs (eg, 41110-60B01 w/ 4.3 gears and locker), no idea whether they actually fit our diffs cleanly.
 
For the 6 speeds, there's a bunch of 70-series 9.5 third members with 32 spline gears with different gearing options and lockers or LSDs (eg, 41110-60B01 w/ 4.3 gears and locker), no idea whether they actually fit our diffs cleanly.

I have a write up pinned here somewhere (likely the 60 series section) from years ago that diagrams the notching needed to get elocker diffs into non elocker housings, it’s super easy to do

Ya also had to swap out 4 of the studs for longer ones if I recall correctly, for the elocker motor
 
Found this pic online, for an 80 series

Ive retrofitted a bunch of elockers into non elocker 80s and it’s not as hard or complicated as it looks, just use the right elocker diff gasket and whammo, your IG famous

If I remember correctly (this was all 15ish years ago) I just used the elocker gasket as a template for the notch

IMG_3783.webp
 
These fawkers probably used my old write up to make their kit 😂

IMG_3784.webp
 
I'm here to enable the OP but personally, I'd just go with the Eaton locker. Simpler, cheaper... and better.

Insight as to why you think that? Cheaper yes.. but why simpler/better? From what I recall, the OEM variant could be serviced and repaired without taking the diff apart
 
I've definitely run across the diff notching, very straightforward and that doesn't scare me away at all.

switch to a US AHC bar which runs along the bottom of the axle

First I've heard of this, any threads covering this? I'm really really impressed with KDSS and would hate to lose it, but I'm game for doing something creative.
 
I'm here to enable the OP but personally, I'd just go with the Eaton locker. Simpler, cheaper... and better.

My approach to modding can certainly be described as Rube Goldberg-esque, so this checks out, thanks lol

Insight as to why you think that? Cheaper yes.. but why simpler/better? From what I recall, the OEM variant could be serviced and repaired without taking the diff apart

In my very brief reading about the Eatons, it sounds like they are pretty instant, as opposed to the little dance you gotta do with the factory lockers. My only experience with lockers of any kind are with Toyota factory lockers (Taco, 4Runner, 80), so I don't know any different.
 
First I've heard of this, any threads covering this? I'm really really impressed with KDSS and would hate to lose it, but I'm game for doing something creative.

Same here.

If the KDSS bar isn’t spring steel, it would be a ton easier to make something that would work
 
My approach to modding can certainly be described as Rube Goldberg-esque, so this checks out, thanks lol



In my very brief reading about the Eatons, it sounds like they are pretty instant, as opposed to the little dance you gotta do with the factory lockers. My only experience with lockers of any kind are with Toyota factory lockers (Taco, 4Runner, 80), so I don't know any different.

“Very brief reading” about something and then posting they’re better?

Cmon now bro…. This isn’t a 4Runner group 😂
 
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