2011 LX 570 Coolant Valley Plate Leak and Fix (1 Viewer)

[m00seknuckle]

During the test drive of this vehicle last weekend, I could smell coolant upon returning. There were a few drops coming down the transmission bell housing. I couldn't find the source and am assuming it is the coolant valley plate. I have found a few threads about the procedure of fixing this leak. My question is what else should be done while I am in here? Also, what gaskets/seals should be replaced?

As of right now my list of replacement parts are:
Intake gasket 2x 171710S030
Coolant O-ring 2x 163220S010
FIPG 00295-00103

Thanks,

 

[Ratchey]

That's about it. But you need to use this sealant or you will be doing it again before long.

08826-00100 Genuine Toyota Seal Packing

ToyotaPartsDeal.com offers the great deal for genuine Toyota parts 08826-00100 (0882600100) Seal Packing for $73.56. All parts are backed by the Toyota's warranty.

www.toyotapartsdeal.com

Not much is taken out except some of the pipes and hoses in the front. I had to replace 2 small coolant hoses that I punctured trying to get loose. Be prepared for a battle and recruit someone with small hands for the air pump valves removal.
Drain the coolant from the block as well or you will have a flood.
And this thread will be your best friend

Kind of "Mystery" Coolant leak back of engine (heat exchanger valley leak)

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[sdnative]

You want to use the Three-Bond 1282B seal packing not the one you have listed. PN is 08826-00100. Make sure you are sitting down when you check the price.

 

[sdnative]

Also, pay attention when sliding the intake back into position and make sure the o-ring slides in smoothly. I dipped mine in coolant first to make it slippery.

I got it all together then noticed this and had to take it all apart again, clean off all of the sealant and do it over. Sucked.

(for some reason that sounded wrong)

 

[bloc]

You want to use the Three-Bond 1282B seal packing not the one you have listed. PN is 08826-00100. Make sure you are sitting down when you check the price.

$69 on amazon. OUCH. Makes the 80/liter transfer case fluid seem cheap.

 

[m00seknuckle]

Thanks yall for the tips. Do we have a data point on the cheaper sealant? If not, I am willing to be the guinea pig as I already have a tube laying around here.

 

[Ratchey]

Thanks yall for the tips. Do we have a data point on the cheaper sealant? If not, I am willing to be the guinea pig as I already have a tube laying around here.

I think the cheap sealant is what they used in the first place, causing this issue.

 

[bloc]

I’d say my limit is about $250 per tube to avoid having to go in there and do the job again.

 

[m00seknuckle]

Might try to document this as I go. Drained both block ports and radiator. Only 3 gallons... negative batt terminal removed. About to pull the air box.

 

[sdnative]

^ that's not 3 gallons.

I was able to get a true 3 gallons out of the system.

Coolant flush or drain?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[m00seknuckle]

Does it matter that I didn’t have the heat on? Intake off. Problem found. Lol.

 

[sdnative]

That was quick. Nice work. The hardest part is the exhaust tube bolt on the side of the PS SAIS valve at the back of the intake there. Be carefully bending the tube out of the way as you can cause a leak at the exhaust manifold.

Here was mine

 

[m00seknuckle]

That took a while to get the pass side tube off like you said. Finally got it. If there are any specific pictures y’all want, let me know. It will prob be 2 hours before I get everything clean and re-sealed. Thanks everyone for all the help. Not too bad of a job, just time consuming.

 

[Ratchey]

That took a while to get the pass side tube off like you said. Finally got it. If there are any specific pictures y’all want, let me know. It will prob be 2 hours before I get everything clean and re-sealed. Thanks everyone for all the help. Not too bad of a job, just time consuming.

You haven't gotten to the hard part yet. Putting those 4 rear bolts back in. I dropped one twice. It was an adventure trying to locate it. Also make sure you don't drop the air pump gaskets. Those are hard to find as well. Small hands will help here...

 

[m00seknuckle]

Haha. I should have just bit the bullet and ordered the delete kit. I will probably stop for the night after I get those in. Currently waiting for the fiancé to get back with etorx sockets to remove the dang studs. Do y’all remove the 4 sensors? Going to be tricky to apply sealant and then get the plate in there without hitting anything. Also, the sealant that was used and failed is grey.
Here is my setup. Hopefully getting a garage soon. This carport with gravel is not ideal.

 

[sdnative]

Yes I removed the sensors. I didn't the first time and it was hard maneuvering the intake in there with the sealant bead without hitting anything. Removing the sensors makes it much easier.

 

[m00seknuckle]

Cool. Got the sensors out and studs. Etorx socket is an E8. Still had trouble getting it out after that. I guess it’s the crankcase tube in the back? Finally maneuvered it around and got it out.

 

[sdnative]

I had forgotten to attach the two harness clips to the metal support behind the intake during reassembly. Once everything was back together it was too tight back there and I wasn't able to attach them correctly. I was able to secure them but not they way they should be. May want to reattach at the first opportunity.

 

[sdnative]

Also, now is a great time to extend your transmission and transfer case breathers (3) if desired, and change the PCV valve.

 

[m00seknuckle]

Maybe next time when I delete the air pumps. They were definitely the time consuming part of this job. Here is where I ended tonight. PCV comes in tomorrow.