Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Put a pull handle and socket on the crank bolt and turn it. It will move.
2010 lx570 code po 304 UPDATE #2 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TTO5
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Could pull the fuel relay and that will avoid start on crank. Still random on where it stops.
- Thread starter
- #43
Great idea. Just ordered some. Thank you
- Thread starter
- #44
Can someone explain how if I shut the engine off during a misfire then immediately start it back up the light stops flashing and misfire is gone. Does this point to anything? I know something is not right with that #4 misfire but how can this be?
I read it as a 'cold' vs 'not cold' kind of thing. Like if you had a fuel injector flooding a cylinder while truck is off. Then it tiggers code on start. An immediate restart wouldn't have that cylinder flooded as no time elapsed, so no code. There are of course lots of other potential causes . . .
- Thread starter
- #46
Ok. I'll be digging deeper this weekend
- Thread starter
- #47
Ok here's the result of my further diagnostics. I removed cylinder 4 plug and coil, started engine let it run for 10 seconds. Found lots of wetness on piston top (was dry before starting engine). Re installed plug and coil on cylinder 4. Removed coil and plug from cylinder 2. Very slight wetness on piston top hardly any. Started engine back up for 10 seconds with cylinder 2 plug and coil removed with coil and plug back in cylinder 4. Shut off, pulled plug from cylinder 4 and found plug soaked with gas and very wet on piston top just like my earlier pictures of that cylinder. Checked cylinder 6 and found very little wetness. So I think for some reason there is too much fuel being distributed into cylinder 4 at start up. It will come out of the misfire after about 20 seconds. I just drove 100 mile trip and no misfires when driving (other than at start up). Feeling good that this might not be a coolant in cylinder issue. If you've read this far without getting confused congratulations. I also took a former suggestion to use a long q tip into the cylinder and it smells like gas on the q tip. Tomorrow I'll be playing with the injector.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Good progress. Move that injector and see if the problem follows. I'll be hopeful it does.
- Thread starter
- #49
Do you suggest I do that instead of just replacing the injector right off the bat? I'm leaning towards moving it first to give me peace of mind.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Parts-cannonfire isn't free, so move it to confirm failure.
- Thread starter
- #51
What do you think about changing the coils as a maintenance? I'd rather not and save some $
- Thread starter
- #52
And what about the other injectors? I work at a toyota dealer and we have the pressurized can of fuel injector cleaner that hooks up to the fuel line. I'm thinking maybe install the new injector and perform the cleaning procedure ?
- Thread starter
- #53
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
At 235k you're due for your second set of coils and plugs unless you know they were done recently. Can avoid the spend, sure, but the truck will eventually pitch a fit and you'll have to put the money into it to fix the issue.
- Thread starter
- #55
Yeah. I'll put the coils in along with new spark plugs. Do you think I'm OK only replacing 1 injector (assuming it needs that 1 injector)
Just detach the #4injector harness and test resistance on the two terminals, per my earlier post.
Replace if it is out of spec.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
In fairness, the injector can be in-spec electrically and failing/failed mechanically.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
No. Broken valve spring would run like crap and make a TERRIBLE noise.
