Did you DIY. How was it?Here's my 2013 today at 90k. Sharpee mark is at 75k. Replaced radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat.
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Did you DIY. How was it?Here's my 2013 today at 90k. Sharpee mark is at 75k. Replaced radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat.
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Was going to just DIY the radiator after watching the video on it. Then talked myself into doing the water pump too and then decided to just see what the dealer would charge. Got them down to $1350 for the radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, and belt so decided to just have them do it. They have a LC tech who has two of his own.Did you DIY. How was it?
Curious what shop you used? I’m in the high country and need this done - was considering taking it down to a dealer or shop.Was going to just DIY the radiator after watching the video on it. Then talked myself into doing the water pump too and then decided to just see what the dealer would charge. Got them down to $1350 for the radiator, water pump, hoses, thermostat, and belt so decided to just have them do it. They have a LC tech who has two of his own.
Larry H Miller Toyota, Colorado Springs. There are two in town, and I used this one at 5115 New Car Dr, Colorado Springs, CO 80923. Shawna Freeman is the service advisor there. Tell her you want the same deal she gave Kerry.Curious what shop you used? I’m in the high country and need this done - was considering taking it down to a dealer or shop.
Here's a pic of a gallon jug of Toyota red from a year ago and a gallon jug from today. The caps are totally different in color and what is written.
Toyota RED coolant and Toyota PINK are not the same coolant at all. If anyone is curious there are threads out there explaining the difference but most definitely DO NOT put RED in the LC. The RED which is made for older model years can be corrosive to the materials (gaskets, seals) that are in the LC 5.7. FYI
Hey all, am I crazy, or is this not an OEM radiator + cap? I took a minute to pull the shroud off to take a look at the replacement that a very reputable local indy shop handled. Quick google of "R126 Radiator Cap" yields a Futaba branded cap. And the fact that there are no markings/stampings or labels on the top of the radiator.
Part number on the invoice was 16400-50382 and priced exactly the same as if bought from the dealership parts department.
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If that is OEM it is the old tank design and they haven’t made those for a few years. Plus the lack of TRad labeling is suspect, as is the cap, you’ve already noted.Hey all, am I crazy, or is this not an OEM radiator + cap? I took a minute to pull the shroud off to take a look at the replacement that a very reputable local indy shop handled. Quick google of "R126 Radiator Cap" yields a Futaba branded cap. And the fact that there are no markings/stampings or labels on the top of the radiator.
Part number on the invoice was 16400-50382 and priced exactly the same as if bought from the dealership parts department.
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If that is OEM it is the old tank design and they haven’t made those for a few years. Plus the lack of TRad labeling is suspect, as is the cap, you’ve already noted.
Truer words were never spoken.when it comes to working on vehicles, if you want it done right, do it yourself.
Following up with a pic of my spanking new radiator! Replaced the water pump and hoses at same time. As a bonus, the foam at the leading edge of the radiator (that had disintegrated) came as part of the new radiator!How long do I have? Yellow marks are from last summer. Crack is definitely spreading. This is on my ‘10. Original radiator. 167k miles. Thanks!
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How was the job? Any pointers?Following up with a pic of my spanking new radiator! Replaced the water pump and hoses at same time. As a bonus, the foam at the leading edge of the radiator (that had disintegrated) came as part of the new radiator!
Great piece of mind here in Houston given how hot it is in the summer!
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Have a good shop that you trust!How was the job? Any pointers?
My radiator failed around 175k. Crack. Replaced. Now leak under motor.*Extreme Conjecture Below*
I wanted to see if I could ballpark the failure rate of the radiator through the use of the information on this forum and the internet as well as narrow down the timing of the failures. On this thread alone, the following users have had radiator failures/ cracking (complete with model year and miles listed are as of the event date):
@jclarke450 - 08 at 166K miles
@INTP - 08 at 143K
@NetJunky - 09 at 135k
@BTUMAN - 08 at 94K
@MEMCruiser - 08 at 185K
@Softride62 - 08 at 110K
@DSallean - 08 at 129K
@thechief24 - 08 at 112K
@Markuson - 08 at 81K
@mreedbmwm3 - 139K
@TexAZ - 08 -
@ranma21 - 11 at 82k
I was able to find two additional cases of radiator failure in another 200 section thread.
@Utahsteve - 08 at 100k
@Fahad -
Number of Failures:
14 total failures, 10 were 2008 model, 1 was 2009, 1 was 2011, and 2 unknown. All are Land Cruisers except for the 2011 LX 570 despite them using the same radiator. This could be because the 200 section is mainly LC owners. I checked the 3rd gen LX 570 section on clublexus but wasn't able to find any failures.
Mileage of Failures:
Failures occurred at an average of ~123,000 miles with a standard deviation of ~31,000 miles (numbers only take into account vehicles who's mileage at the failure was recorded). All are believed to have occurred within the last two years.
Failure Rate:
There is no way a good baseline for failure rate. The MUD population is too small and there is no way to accurately count the number of owners of the 08-11 model year. This thread shows 71 currently owned from 2008-2011 (How many 200's on ih8mud). Assuming all MUD owners input their info (which didn't happen and is a bad assumption), this puts the failure rate at ~20% (take with a Land Cruiser-sized grain of salt)
Quite possibly it's the water pump. This is what mine looked like when I changed the oil last:My radiator failed around 175k. Crack. Replaced. Now leak under motor.
How can you visibly tell this is the new? I understand the new part is 16400-50384, but what are you seeing that identifies this as the new version?Yes, that is the new design
The old design is very square and has sharp 90 degree corners where it rises from the radiator and is flush with the radiator at the edge facing the engineHow can you visibly tell this is the new? I understand the new part is 16400-50384, but what are you seeing that identifies this as the new version?